昆剧传统剧目服饰形制解析
发布时间：2019-04-03 09:01
【摘要】：本文研究将重点关注昆剧服饰的艺术特色,以及昆剧服装的穿戴规制与特点。论文从设计艺术学的角度出发,研究分析昆剧传统剧目中的典型人物服饰(款式、色彩、纹样、面料、工艺)。文章第二章主要分析了昆剧服饰的款式、色彩、纹样、面料、工艺五个设计要素,重点梳理分析了剧目人物服饰与各要素之间的关系,五个设计要素如何通过服装来表现剧目中的人物。第三章主要从昆剧人物行当的角度出发,首先研究分析行当与人物服饰之间的关系。其次是分析了昆剧人物行当划分的依据在服饰上是如何表现的,比如人物年龄、身份、性格、气质、人格、职业等都会体现在服饰的款式、色彩、纹样、面料、工艺五个设计要素上。第四章是昆剧传统剧目人物形象塑造的分析。如剧目人物的心情变化与服装色彩的变化关系,剧目人物境遇变化与服装款式的变化关系。分析了剧目人物服饰色彩的表现。第五章是分析了剧目服饰与舞台表现之间的关系,主要分析了服饰款式的可舞性,服装(款式、搭配、色彩及纹样、面料)的装饰性,服饰组合及搭配的程式性等。 本文对传统昆剧剧目人物服饰的研究主要得出以下几个结论： 一、昆剧传统服饰的款式、色彩、纹样、面料、工艺五个设计要素与剧目中的人物身份、性格、气质、性别、职位等相互关联。款式的复杂意味着人物有身份,色彩在服饰上有诸多褒贬的象征意义,包括政治等级、文化习俗、情境等。纹样的越繁复,标志职位越高。面料在服装表现上有助于演员表现人物内在情绪。工艺(刺绣)手法可以增强服装的厚重感,从而更好地表现人物形象。 二、昆剧人物的分类形成了行当,行当人物的服装设计要素也有自身的特点。如文扮与武扮的人物在服装款式上有本质的区别,而在面料的使用上有共同点。同一个行当的人物,在整体服饰搭配方面会依据人物的个性而有所不同。身份的尊卑也是直接体现在服装的款式、色彩、面料、纹样、工艺上。 三、在传统昆剧剧目中,人物服饰变化与传统剧目的情节变化有关系。昆剧传统剧目中,人物心情变化影响服装色彩的变化,人物境遇的改变影响服装款式的改变。 四、昆剧服饰的舞台表现力主要有可舞性与装饰性,如“水袖”、“白裙打腰”的可舞性。色彩在服装上具有较强的装饰性,色彩表现直接关系到人物气质的舞台上的塑造。人物服饰的整体搭配也促进角色装扮的个性化。
[Abstract]:This paper will focus on the artistic characteristics of Kunqu opera clothing, as well as the wear regulation and characteristics of Kunqu opera clothing. From the point of view of design art, this paper studies and analyzes the dress of typical characters (style, color, pattern, fabric, craft) in the traditional repertoire of Kunqu Opera. The second chapter of the article mainly analyzes the five design elements of Kunqu opera dress: style, color, pattern, fabric and craft, and analyzes the relationship between the costume of the characters in the repertoire and each factor. The five elements of design show the characters in the repertoire through clothing. The third chapter mainly from the perspective of Kunqu opera character behavior, first of all, study and analyze the relationship between industry and character dress. Secondly, it analyzes how the basis of the division of Kunqu opera's characters in dress, such as character's age, identity, character, temperament, personality, occupation and so on, will be reflected in the style, color, pattern, fabric, etc., of the characters in Kunqu Opera, which is based on their age, identity, character, temperament, personality and occupation. Process five design elements. The fourth chapter is the analysis of the image of the characters in the traditional repertoire of Kunqu Opera. For example, the relationship between the mood change of the repertoire character and the change of clothing color, the relation between the change of the situation of the repertoire character and the change of clothing style. This paper analyzes the expression of the dress color of the characters in the repertoire. The fifth chapter analyzes the relationship between the repertoire dress and the stage performance, mainly analyzes the style of the dress dance, clothing (style, collocation, color and pattern, fabric) decoration, dress combination and collocation of the program, and so on. The following conclusions are drawn in this paper: first, the five design elements of the traditional costumes of Kunqu Opera, such as style, color, pattern, fabric, craft, and the characters' identity, character and temperament in the repertoire, are as follows: 1) the traditional costumes of Kunqu Opera are composed of five design elements: style, color, pattern, fabric and craft. Gender, position, etc are interrelated. The complexity of the style means that the character has the identity, and the color has many symbolic meanings in the dress, including political hierarchy, cultural custom, situation and so on. The more complex the pattern, the higher the mark position. The fabric in the clothing performance helps the actor to express the character's inner emotion. Craftsmanship (embroidery) can enhance the heavy sense of clothing, thus better performance of the character image. Second, the classification of Kunqu opera characters has formed the profession, and the clothing design elements of the characters have their own characteristics. For example, there are essential differences in clothing styles between figures dressed up and martial arts, and there is common ground in the use of fabrics. The same character, in the overall dress collocation will vary according to the character of the character. The status of inferiority is also directly reflected in clothing style, color, fabric, patterns, craftsmanship. Third, in the traditional Kunqu opera repertoire, the character dress change is related to the plot change of the traditional opera. In the traditional repertoire of Kunqu opera, the change of mood affects the change of clothing color, and the change of character's situation affects the change of clothing style. Fourth, the stage performance of Kunqu opera costume mainly has dance and decoration, such as "water sleeves", "white skirt beating waist" dance. Color in clothing has a strong decorative, color performance directly related to the character temperament on the stage molding. The whole collocation of the character dress also promotes the personalization of the character dress.
【学位授予单位】：东华大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2010
【分类号】：J825
本文编号：2453089
[Abstract]:This paper will focus on the artistic characteristics of Kunqu opera clothing, as well as the wear regulation and characteristics of Kunqu opera clothing. From the point of view of design art, this paper studies and analyzes the dress of typical characters (style, color, pattern, fabric, craft) in the traditional repertoire of Kunqu Opera. The second chapter of the article mainly analyzes the five design elements of Kunqu opera dress: style, color, pattern, fabric and craft, and analyzes the relationship between the costume of the characters in the repertoire and each factor. The five elements of design show the characters in the repertoire through clothing. The third chapter mainly from the perspective of Kunqu opera character behavior, first of all, study and analyze the relationship between industry and character dress. Secondly, it analyzes how the basis of the division of Kunqu opera's characters in dress, such as character's age, identity, character, temperament, personality, occupation and so on, will be reflected in the style, color, pattern, fabric, etc., of the characters in Kunqu Opera, which is based on their age, identity, character, temperament, personality and occupation. Process five design elements. The fourth chapter is the analysis of the image of the characters in the traditional repertoire of Kunqu Opera. For example, the relationship between the mood change of the repertoire character and the change of clothing color, the relation between the change of the situation of the repertoire character and the change of clothing style. This paper analyzes the expression of the dress color of the characters in the repertoire. The fifth chapter analyzes the relationship between the repertoire dress and the stage performance, mainly analyzes the style of the dress dance, clothing (style, collocation, color and pattern, fabric) decoration, dress combination and collocation of the program, and so on. The following conclusions are drawn in this paper: first, the five design elements of the traditional costumes of Kunqu Opera, such as style, color, pattern, fabric, craft, and the characters' identity, character and temperament in the repertoire, are as follows: 1) the traditional costumes of Kunqu Opera are composed of five design elements: style, color, pattern, fabric and craft. Gender, position, etc are interrelated. The complexity of the style means that the character has the identity, and the color has many symbolic meanings in the dress, including political hierarchy, cultural custom, situation and so on. The more complex the pattern, the higher the mark position. The fabric in the clothing performance helps the actor to express the character's inner emotion. Craftsmanship (embroidery) can enhance the heavy sense of clothing, thus better performance of the character image. Second, the classification of Kunqu opera characters has formed the profession, and the clothing design elements of the characters have their own characteristics. For example, there are essential differences in clothing styles between figures dressed up and martial arts, and there is common ground in the use of fabrics. The same character, in the overall dress collocation will vary according to the character of the character. The status of inferiority is also directly reflected in clothing style, color, fabric, patterns, craftsmanship. Third, in the traditional Kunqu opera repertoire, the character dress change is related to the plot change of the traditional opera. In the traditional repertoire of Kunqu opera, the change of mood affects the change of clothing color, and the change of character's situation affects the change of clothing style. Fourth, the stage performance of Kunqu opera costume mainly has dance and decoration, such as "water sleeves", "white skirt beating waist" dance. Color in clothing has a strong decorative, color performance directly related to the character temperament on the stage molding. The whole collocation of the character dress also promotes the personalization of the character dress.
【学位授予单位】：东华大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2010
【分类号】：J825
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