波浪在沙质海床上传播波长变化

发布时间：2018-03-25 15:12

本文选题：沙质海床　切入点：渗透性　出处：《水利水运工程学报》2017年03期

【摘要】：沙质海床具有渗透性,会引起波浪的波长变化。基于线性波浪理论,采用Mendez提出的摄动方法,在已知波浪周期、水深和海床渗透系数的条件下,数值求解了渗透海床上的波浪色散方程,得到相应的波长,进而研究不同渗透系数和相对水深的沙质海床上波长的变化规律。结果表明,波浪在沙质海床上传播时的波长大于海床不可渗透的情况,且随着渗透系数的增大而增大;波浪在向岸传播过程中会发生浅水变形而波长减小,相比海床不可渗透的情况,沙质海床上的波长减小程度相对较小,这种现象随着相对水深的减小而愈加明显。因此,沙质海床的渗透性对波长的影响相当于1个"海床水深"Δh,它随渗透系数的增大和相对水深的减小而增大,当波浪在水深为h的沙质海床上传播时,其波长等于水深为h+Δh的不可渗透海床的波长。
[Abstract]:The permeability of sandy seabed can cause wave wavelength variation. Based on the linear wave theory, the perturbation method proposed by Mendez is used under the condition of known wave period, depth of water and permeability coefficient of seabed. The wave dispersion equation on the permeable seabed is solved numerically, the corresponding wavelength is obtained, and the variation law of wavelength on sandy seabed with different permeability coefficient and relative water depth is studied. The wave length of the wave propagating on the sandy seabed is larger than that of the sea bed, and increases with the increase of the permeability coefficient, and the wave wave wave will deform in shallow water and decrease in the course of the wave propagation to the shore, compared with the situation that the ocean bed is impermeable. The wavelength decrease on sandy seabed is relatively small, and this phenomenon becomes more obvious with the decrease of relative water depth. The influence of the permeability of sandy seabed on the wavelength is equivalent to that of a "seabed water depth" 螖 h, which increases with the increase of the permeability coefficient and the decrease of the relative water depth, and when the wave propagates on the sandy seabed with water depth h, Its wavelength is equal to that of the impermeable seabed with a water depth of h 螖 h.
【作者单位】：浙江海洋大学港航与交通运输工程学院;大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室;
【基金】：国家海洋局海洋可再生能源专项资金资助项目(ZJME201 1BL04) 浙江海洋学院港航工程科研团队建设基金资助项目
【分类号】：P731.22

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