基于数值模拟的厦门湾波浪特征研究

发布时间：2018-08-27 14:27

【摘要】：本研究使用成熟的SWAN模型对厦门湾的波浪场进行了1a的数值模拟,通过与同期的珍珠湾波浪观测数据进行对比验证了模型的可靠性.根据模型的计算结果,分析了厦门湾年平均和夏、冬两季平均波高和波向的分布特征,厦门湾的风浪和涌浪组成,珍珠湾波浪观测海域主要的波浪能量生成和能量耗散过程.结果表明,厦门湾年平均有效波高较小,且有较明显的季节变化特征,夏季厦门湾平均有效波高较小,且湾内波向多为偏南向;冬季厦门湾平均有效波高相对较大,厦门岛北侧和东侧海域波向均为NE向.厦门湾湾内以风浪为主,涌浪较小,风浪、涌浪比较大,均在3以上;从湾外向湾内,风浪、涌浪比逐渐增加,至厦门湾南岸和泉州石井镇附近海域,风浪、涌浪比增加到5~6;在厦门湾东部和北部海域,风浪、涌浪比均在10以上.珍珠湾海域波浪最主要的能量耗散过程是由底摩擦引起的能量耗散,虽然冬季风速较大,但夏季风能输入的能量和白帽破碎耗散的能量均大于冬季;因冬季波浪相对较大,夏季底摩擦耗散的能量要小于冬季.
[Abstract]:In this study, the mature SWAN model is used to simulate the wave field in Xiamen Bay for 1 year, and the reliability of the model is verified by comparing it with the observed wave data of Pearl Bay at the same time. Based on the calculated results of the model, the distribution characteristics of the mean wave height and wave direction in Xiamen Bay in summer and winter, the wind wave and surge wave composition in Xiamen Bay, and the main wave energy generation and energy dissipation in Pearl Bay are analyzed. The results show that the annual mean effective wave height in Xiamen Bay is smaller and has obvious seasonal variation characteristics. In summer, the average effective wave height in Xiamen Bay is smaller, and the wave direction in the bay is mostly southward, and in winter, the average effective wave height in Xiamen Bay is relatively large. In the north and east sides of Xiamen Island, the wave direction is both NE. The main wind waves in Xiamen Bay are small surges, the wind waves and surges are larger than 3; from the bay outside the bay, the ratio of wind, wave and surge increases gradually, to the south coast of Xiamen Bay and the sea area near Quanzhou Shijing Town. In the eastern and northern sea areas of Xiamen Bay, the wind-wave and surge-to-wave ratios are all above 10. The main energy dissipation process of the waves in Pearl Bay is the energy dissipation caused by bottom friction. Although the wind speed is large in winter, the input energy of wind energy in summer and the energy dissipated by breakup of white cap in summer are both higher than those in winter, because the wave is relatively large in winter. The energy dissipation at the end of summer is less than that in winter.
【作者单位】：国家海洋局第三海洋研究所;国家海洋局海岛研究中心;
【基金】：国家海洋局第三海洋研究所基本科研业务费资助项目(海三科2014025) 海洋公益性行业科研专项资助项目(201405037-1)
【分类号】：P731.22

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