中国古代儒服研究

发布时间：2018-04-01 09:38

本文选题：儒服　切入点：儒生　出处：《山东师范大学》2009年硕士论文

【摘要】： 中国古代服饰研究,是古代史研究中的一个重要组成部分。服饰不仅是物质文化的体现,更是历史、政治、经济、军事、文化诸因素融合的产物,通过服饰可以透视出各朝代不同的社会背景和社会状况,正如郭沫若先生所言:对古代服饰的研究可以考见民族文化发展的轨迹。自20世纪80年代沈从文先生的《中国古代服饰研究》一书问世以来,服饰研究得到学术界的广泛关注,成果不断涌现。但有关古代服饰的研究多注重丧葬服饰、妇女服饰、少数民族服饰、服饰风俗、综合研究等方面,而对儒生服饰却少有系统的深入研究。服饰是身份地位、行业角色、政治立场、思想倾向、个体品格的外在标志。儒服不仅仅能够反映出儒生的政治立场、思想倾向和个体品格,而且还能从一个侧面反映出一定时期内的社会风俗与统治者的服饰政策,以及儒家、儒生在这一时期的历史地位和政治地位。对中国古代儒服进行全面系统的历史考察,弄清儒服在每一个历史发展阶段上的具体款式,儒服流行的阶层、类别,儒服背后所隐含的政治意蕴和文化意蕴,儒服在当时所有服饰中的地位,对理解和把握中国传统服饰文化与中国传统服饰审美观念,以及从历史中寻找现代服饰改革的突破口,都有非常重要的学术价值和现实意义。本文力求对中国古代儒服进行全方位的立体式考察,直观地展现出儒服在每个历史阶段的具体样式,把握整个古代儒服的发展脉络及递嬗规律。本文主要从以下五个方面展开论述: 第一部分,主要从先秦时期、两汉时期、魏晋南北朝时期、隋唐时期、宋元时期、明清时期六个阶段纵向梳理儒服的发展脉络,多从图片资料和考古资料出发直观展现各个时期的基本样式特点。第二部分,通过对儒服流变的把握,揭示其中的发展递嬗规律。主要揭示统治者的服饰政策、社会变动、儒家的社会政治地位对儒服的影响。弄清儒服背后的政治意蕴。第三部分,阐述儒服对社会环境的互动影响。分别从儒服与社会风俗、儒服与道服等方面进行论述,并横向比较僧道服饰与儒服中的共同元素,以及各种服饰之间的互通有无。第四部分,主要论述儒服的服装样式、服饰图纹中所蕴含的文化意蕴。从儒者风范的外化、等级伦理观念的表征、“天人合一”理念的体现和儒家“兼容并蓄”思想的表现四个方面,揭示儒服款式、颜色等方面所表现的文化审美观念,以体现儒家的服饰观、世界观、人生观与哲学观。。第五部分,面对中国传统文化的复兴潮流,针对要求复兴汉服的呼声,儒服作为汉服的组成部分之一,有极其重要的地位。阐述儒服对理解、把握中国的传统服饰文化、中国传统的服饰审美观念的重要性,进而从历史中寻找现代服饰改革的突破口。通过对上述各部分的阐述,透视出儒服中所承载的儒家思想,其通过服饰的形式传达给他人,并影响整个社会群体。对儒服嬗变的论述不仅可以阐明各个时期社会风俗的特点、儒家思想的特点,更证明服饰演变本身就是一部光辉灿烂的史书。
[Abstract]:Study on China ancient costume, is an important part of the study of ancient history. Not only is the embodiment of the material culture, is the history, politics, economy, military, the combination of factors of the culture, we can see through the clothing of different dynasties, different social background and social status, as Mr. Guo Moruo said: Study on the ancient costume we can see the locus of the development of ethnic culture.
Since 1980s, Mr. Shen Congwen's "China ancient costumes of" a book come out, clothing research widely attention in academic circles, the results continue to emerge. But the research of ancient trappings have paid much attention to funeral clothing, women's clothing, ethnic costumes, costumes, comprehensive research, in-depth study of Confucian clothes but few system. Clothing is the status and role of industry, political position, ideological tendency, the external signs of individual character. Not only Confucian clothes can reflect Confucian political position, ideological tendency and individual character, but also from one side reflects the social customs and the rulers of a certain period of time the clothing policy, and Confucian scholars. In the historical and political status during this period. The historical research on the ancient China confucianclothes comprehensively, understand the Confucian clothes in every stage of historical development of the concrete Confucianclothes popular style, class, class, political implication and cultural connotation of Confucian clothes behind the Confucian clothes at the time all dress in the position to understand and grasp the Chinese traditional costume culture and Chinese traditional costume aesthetic ideas, and to find a breakthrough in modern dress reform from history, are very important the academic value and practical significance.
This paper tries to three-dimensional Chinese ancient Confucian clothes of a full range of inspection, directly shows the specific style of Confucian clothes in each historical stage, grasp the development and evolution regularity of the ancient Confucian clothes. This paper mainly discusses the following five aspects:
The first part is mainly from the pre Qin period, the Han and Wei dynasties, the northern and Southern Dynasties, the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the song and Yuan Dynasties, the six stages of Ming and Qing Dynasties, and carding the development of Confucian costume longitudinally.
The second part, based on the rheological confucianclothes grasp, reveals the development evolution regularity of them. Mainly reveals the rulers clothing policy of social change, influence the social and political position of Confucian clothes. Understand the political implication behind the Confucian clothes.
The third part expounds the interactive influence of Confucian costume on social environment. It discusses from Confucian costume and social customs, Confucian service and Taoist clothing, and compares the common elements of monks and Taoist costumes and Confucian costume, and the interaction between various costumes.
The fourth part mainly discusses the Confucian clothes clothing style, cultural implication in the dress pattern. From the outside of the Confucian style, characterized by hierarchy ethics, "four heaven" and "reflects the concept of Confucian thought, fully inclusive and equitable" reveals the Confucian clothes style, the color etc. the cultural and aesthetic ideas, which embodies the Confucian clothing concept, world outlook, outlook on life and philosophy.
The fifth part, in the face of China the revival of traditional culture trend, the Hanfu confucianclothes as part of the Hanfu, has an extremely important position. This confucianclothes to understand, grasp the Chinese traditional costume culture, the importance of Chinese traditional dress aesthetic concept, and then find a breakthrough from the history of modern dress reform.
Based on the parts of the paper, the perspective of Confucian clothes of Confucian ideas, through their clothes in the form of message to others, and affect the entire social groups. The discussion of Confucian clothes can not only explain the characteristics of social customs in different period, characteristics of Confucianism, that the evolution of costume itself is a shine with great splendor the history books.

【学位授予单位】：山东师范大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2009
【分类号】：K892.23

【引证文献】