敦煌壁画中唐至五代女子妆容研究

发布时间：2018-04-08 14:57

本文选题：唐五代　切入点：敦煌壁画　出处：《兰州大学》2017年硕士论文

【摘要】：唐代妇女的地位在中国古代历史长河中算得上崇高,女子的妆容也是美不胜收。其实妆容文化由来已久,敦煌壁画中唐五代女子妆容种类与中原地区在很多地方一脉相承,又有独具一格的一面,显示了敦煌妇女当时独特的精神风貌。本文分四部分,分别对敦煌地区流行的不同妆容及其使用的化妆品、化妆材料来源、每种妆容的特点进行了研究。第一章论述粉妆,分白粉妆与红粉妆两部分,其中壁画中女子的红粉美妆,使用胭脂作为主要化妆品的时间应该比中原地区更早,而且从现存的壁画资料看,敦煌壁画初唐至盛唐时期女子红粉妆容同西域地区女子妆容更为接近,中唐吐蕃占领敦煌之后,妇女的妆容又带上了吐蕃特色;第二章论述的是眉妆,主要从画眉的材料与眉式方面对敦煌地区主要流行的眉妆进行了研究;第三章论述面妆,分额妆、面靥妆、斜红妆三部分,其中在额妆研究中,将花钿妆、黄妆、抹额与个别首饰均归类于额妆,这种分类在之前的研究中比较罕见。具有神秘色彩的黄妆也曾在敦煌流行,对黄妆的起源、流传做了重点论述;第四章主要研究受异域风格影响的唇妆,莫高窟很多供养人本身就是少数民族,所以这里更有可能出现多个少数民族的唇妆。现存敦煌壁画中出现的女子唇妆,根据唇型判断,受到周边民族妆容的影响也更加深刻。此外,敦煌壁画女子妆容呈现的色彩与敦煌地区颜料供应关系密切,由此推断敦煌女子所使用的化妆品应该也与颜料的供应有关。
[Abstract]:The status of women in the Tang Dynasty was sublime in the history of ancient China.In fact, makeup culture has a long history, Dunhuang frescoes in the Tang Dynasty and the five dynasties women makeup in many places in the same lineage, but also has a unique side, showing the Dunhuang women at that time unique spiritual style.This paper is divided into four parts. The different makeup and cosmetics used in Dunhuang area, the source of makeup materials, and the characteristics of each makeup are studied respectively.The first chapter discusses powder makeup, which is divided into two parts: white powder makeup and red powder makeup. Among them, women's pink makeup in murals should have been used earlier than in the Central Plains, and from the existing mural materials,Dunhuang murals from the beginning of Tang Dynasty to the prosperous Tang Dynasty women pink makeup look more similar to the Western region women makeup, after the occupation of Dunhuang in the middle Tang Dynasty, women's makeup features with Tubo; the second chapter is about eyebrow makeup.This paper mainly studies the main popular eyebrow makeup in Dunhuang area from the aspect of the material and the eyebrow type of thrush. The third chapter discusses three parts: facial makeup, facial makeup, face dimple makeup, oblique red makeup, among which, in the research of forehead makeup, the mother's mother and yellow makeup are put on.Applied forehead and individual jewelry are classified in forehead makeup, which is rare in previous studies.Yellow makeup with mysterious colors was also popular in Dunhuang. The origin of yellow makeup was mainly discussed. Chapter four mainly studied lip makeup influenced by exotic styles. Many of the providers of Mogao Grottoes were themselves ethnic minorities.So it is more likely to have more than one ethnic minority lip makeup.The female lip makeup in the existing Dunhuang murals is more deeply influenced by the surrounding ethnic makeup according to the lip shape.In addition, the color of women's makeup in Dunhuang murals is closely related to the supply of pigments in Dunhuang area, so it can be concluded that the cosmetics used by Dunhuang women should also be related to the supply of pigments.
【学位授予单位】：兰州大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：K879.41

【相似文献】