明代金银发簪研究
发布时间：2018-08-05 18:01
【摘要】：本文对目前所见的明代金银发簪进行了类型学分析研究,将金簪分为二十四型,银簪分为十八型。共分为五期,第一期从洪武元年(1368年)至永乐十三年(1415年),发簪大多簪首样式简洁、簪身短小;第二期从永乐十四年(1416年)至正统三年(1438年),出现了新的纹饰,并且开始在簪首镶嵌玉或宝石;第三期从正统四年(1439年)至正德十五年(1520年),型式和数量都大量增多,镶嵌玉和宝石的类型所占比例增加,鎏金银簪开始出现;第四期从正德十六年(1521年)至万历三年(1575年),金簪的类型减少,银簪类型增加并开始出现镶嵌玉或宝石的银簪;第五期从万历四年(1576年)至崇祯十七年(1644年),发簪样式最为丰富,镶嵌玉或宝石的发簪占绝大多数。明代发簪的纹饰、质料有明显的等级,不同地区出土的发簪纹饰和工艺方面也表现出地域差别。明代前期发簪上的宝石大部分可能来自于南亚和东南亚,中晚期以后,朝廷开始派遣宦官前往孟密等地镇守并主管开采收购宝石。也有一些外来珠宝商人来中国贩卖宝石。成化年以后皇室对宝石的需求量大大增加。此后,嵌宝石发簪的类型和数量越来越多。受到宫廷奢侈风气的影响,加之商品经济繁荣发展,发簪中出现僭用宝石的现象,并且流行周期不断缩短。另外,发簪中也有受到佛教、道教文化的影响而产生的样式,其中,藏传佛教的影响尤为明显。
[Abstract]:This paper studies the typology of gold and silver hairpin seen in Ming Dynasty, and divides the gold hairpin into 24 type and the silver hairpin into 18 types. The first period is from the first year of Hongwu (1368) to the 13th year of Yongle (1415). Most hairpins have a simple style and a short hairpin, and the second period ranges from 14 years (1416) to 1438 years of orthodoxy. In the third period, from four years of orthodoxy (1439) to 15 years of Zhengde (1520), the types and quantity of jade and gemstones increased, the proportion of jade and gemstones increased, and gold and silver hairpin began to appear. In the fourth period, from 16 years of Zhengde (1521) to three years of Wanli (1575), the type of gold hairpin decreased, and the type of silver hairpin increased and began to appear. The fifth period from four years of Wanli (1576) to Chongzhen seventeen years (1644), hairpin style is the most abundant, jade or gem mosaic hairpin accounted for the vast majority. The pattern of hairpin in Ming Dynasty had obvious grade of material, and there were also regional differences in the pattern and technology of hairpin unearthed in different areas. Most of the gems on the hairpin in the early Ming Dynasty probably came from South and Southeast Asia. After the middle and late period, the court began to send eunuchs to Mengmi and other places to guard and take charge of mining and purchasing precious stones. There are also some foreign jewelers who come to China to sell precious stones. The royal family's demand for precious stones increased greatly after the age of formation. Since then, the type and number of gemstone hairpins have become more and more. Influenced by the luxury of the court, and the prosperity of commodity economy, the phenomenon of arroganism appeared in hairpin, and the period of popularity was shortened. In addition, the hairpin is also influenced by Buddhism and Taoism culture, especially Tibetan Buddhism.
【学位授予单位】：兰州大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2016
【分类号】：K876.43
，
本文编号：2166557
[Abstract]:This paper studies the typology of gold and silver hairpin seen in Ming Dynasty, and divides the gold hairpin into 24 type and the silver hairpin into 18 types. The first period is from the first year of Hongwu (1368) to the 13th year of Yongle (1415). Most hairpins have a simple style and a short hairpin, and the second period ranges from 14 years (1416) to 1438 years of orthodoxy. In the third period, from four years of orthodoxy (1439) to 15 years of Zhengde (1520), the types and quantity of jade and gemstones increased, the proportion of jade and gemstones increased, and gold and silver hairpin began to appear. In the fourth period, from 16 years of Zhengde (1521) to three years of Wanli (1575), the type of gold hairpin decreased, and the type of silver hairpin increased and began to appear. The fifth period from four years of Wanli (1576) to Chongzhen seventeen years (1644), hairpin style is the most abundant, jade or gem mosaic hairpin accounted for the vast majority. The pattern of hairpin in Ming Dynasty had obvious grade of material, and there were also regional differences in the pattern and technology of hairpin unearthed in different areas. Most of the gems on the hairpin in the early Ming Dynasty probably came from South and Southeast Asia. After the middle and late period, the court began to send eunuchs to Mengmi and other places to guard and take charge of mining and purchasing precious stones. There are also some foreign jewelers who come to China to sell precious stones. The royal family's demand for precious stones increased greatly after the age of formation. Since then, the type and number of gemstone hairpins have become more and more. Influenced by the luxury of the court, and the prosperity of commodity economy, the phenomenon of arroganism appeared in hairpin, and the period of popularity was shortened. In addition, the hairpin is also influenced by Buddhism and Taoism culture, especially Tibetan Buddhism.
【学位授予单位】：兰州大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2016
【分类号】：K876.43
，
本文编号：2166557
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