唐代女性妆饰文化研究

发布时间：2018-05-11 10:51

本文选题：唐代 + 女性　；参考：《重庆师范大学》2009年硕士论文

【摘要】： 大唐盛世气象万千。其包容并蓄的宏伟气度,几乎涵盖了社会生活的方方面面,连女性妆饰文化也不例外。对唐代女性的研究,从内在到外表均屡见于专著和论文,其中对女性服饰文化的讨论也屡见不鲜,且不乏见地。但略感遗憾的是,学界对盛唐女性妆饰的研究,主要停留在服饰上,而对其诸如内涵复杂的面部化妆和发式的梳理、发饰的佩戴等缺乏较为深入的揭示和讨论。而事实上,盛唐时代女性的妆饰无论从内容、手法还是用料等方面,均在继承前代成果的同时有了重大的发展,并形成了其独具特色的、得以在千年妆饰史上独领风骚的格调。而讨论唐代女性妆饰的价值,则不仅仅是还原唐代妇女多彩生活的本来面貌,从非物质文化遗产研究的角度去找回一种人类妆饰的技艺,更重要的是,通过讨论我们还可以探究当时的男权社会及女性本身的价值取向和审美观,从而使我们得以更为全面地了解当时的社会文化。本文的讨论主要从五个方面进行,它们分别是“唐代女性面部妆饰之重心”、“唐代女性面部妆饰之基础”、“唐代女性妆饰中的发与饰”、“唐代女性妆饰的文化内涵”、“唐代女性妆饰文化的影响”。这五方面内容,既互相关联、又层层递进,最终形成整体认识。第一章,主要着眼于对女性面部妆饰之重心眉与唇的着妆介绍,指出它们为何成为女性画妆的中心,并通过文献记载与绘画、实物等材料讨论其方式方法、用料和效果。第二章,介绍女性面部妆饰之其它方面,主要包括:面脂、额黄、花钿、妆靥、斜红等内容,它们中有的是面部妆饰的基础,必不可少;有的则是面部妆饰的细节,起增色溢美的作用,文中对这些装饰效果、手法及所用材料均作了较详细的讨论。第三章,分别介绍了女性妆饰中的发与饰,包含“发式”与“发饰”两大部分,其中就发饰而言又涵盖了:簪、钗、梳、簪花、假髻等内容,文中除了讨论头发的梳理、饰物的插戴外,更以当时文人、画家的眼光展示了它们的美貌,并揭示了欣赏者的审美心态。第四章,重在分析女性妆饰的文化内涵,讨论当时社会男权审美视角对女性妆饰的影响和女性自身心理因素在妆饰上的反映;同时指出少数民族审美意识及妆饰手段对大唐盛世女性妆饰的影响。第五章,主要探讨唐代女性妆饰文化在当时乃至对后世产生的影响,一是它对当时少数民族及周边地区的影响,二是它对后世女性妆饰文化发展的影响,通过对该方面的讨论,揭示盛唐文化对当时及后世的价值,进而凸显其传承、保护和借鉴的重要意义。总之,本文不仅仅对唐代女性妆饰文化现象进行了阐述,还以此为基础对该文化的内涵及外延作了有一定深度的剖析。在内,作者指出了时代背景、男性的审美观对它的重大影响,揭示了当时女性妆饰的心理因素及其自身审美情趣:在外,作者则分析了中国女性妆饰史上,唐代女性所呈现出来的特异性,指出该特异性的出现与大唐兼收并蓄的开放胸襟,与周边少数民族特色文化的存在及影响紧密相关。
[Abstract]:The Tang Dynasty was rich and magnificent. Its tolerance and grandiose grandeur almost covered all aspects of social life, and even female adornment culture was no exception. The study of the women in the Tang Dynasty was often seen in monographs and papers from inner to appearance, among which the discussion of women's clothing culture was often seen, but a little regrettable. The research on the adornment of the women in the Tang Dynasty mainly lies in the dress, and the lack of a more thorough revelation and discussion about the combing of the complicated facial makeup and hairstyle, and the wearing of hair ornaments. In fact, the adornments of women in the age of the Tang Dynasty have inherited the achievements of the previous generation in terms of content, techniques and materials. The great development, and its unique features, is able to lead the style in the history of the Millennium adornment. And the discussion of the value of the women's adornment in the Tang Dynasty is not only to restore the original appearance of the colorful life of the women in the Tang Dynasty, and to retrieve a kind of human adornment from the angle of the study of the intangible cultural heritage, and more importantly, through discussion. We can also explore the male dominated society and the value orientation and aesthetics of women at that time, so that we can have a better understanding of the social culture at that time.
The discussion of this article is mainly from five aspects. They are "the center of the face adornment of women in the Tang Dynasty", "the foundation of the face adornment of the women in the Tang Dynasty", "the hair and decoration in the women's adornment in the Tang Dynasty", "the cultural connotation of the female adornment in the Tang Dynasty" and the "influence of the Tang Dynasty female adornment culture". The first chapter, in Chapter 1, mainly focuses on the introduction of the makeup of the center eyebrow and lip of women's facial makeup, points out why they become the center of women's make-up, and discusses the methods, materials and effects through documents and paintings, objects and other materials. The second chapter introduces the other aspects of women's facial makeup. To include: face fat, forehead yellow, flower of pearl, make-up dimple, slant red and so on. Some of them are the basis of face adornment. Some are the details of face adornment, play the role of increasing color and beauty. In this article, these decorative effects, techniques and materials used are discussed in more detail. The third chapter introduces the hair and ornaments in the female adornment and the package, respectively. There are two parts of "hairdo" and "hair ornament", including hairpin, hairpin, hairpin, hairpin, bun and so on. In addition to discussing hair combing and decorating, the article shows their beauty with the eyes of the literati and painters, and reveals the aesthetic mentality of the appreciates. The fourth chapter emphasizes the analysis of female adornment. Cultural connotation, the influence of the aesthetic visual angle of the social men's power on women adornment and the reflection of women's own psychological factors on the ornament, and the influence of the aesthetic consciousness and ornaments of the minority nationalities on the adornment of the women of the Tang Dynasty. The fifth chapter mainly discusses the influence of the culture of the female makeup in the Tang Dynasty at that time even to the later generations. It is its influence on the ethnic minorities and the surrounding areas at that time. Two is its influence on the cultural development of later women adornment. Through the discussion of this aspect, it reveals the value of the culture of the Tang Dynasty to the time and later generations, and then highlights the significance of its inheritance, protection and reference.
In a word, this article not only expounds the cultural phenomenon of the adornment of the women in the Tang Dynasty, but also analyses the connotation and extension of the culture on the basis of it. The author points out the background of the times, the great influence of the male aesthetic view on it, and reveals the psychological factors of the female adornment and its own aesthetic taste at that time. The author analyses the specificity of the women in the Tang Dynasty in the history of Chinese women's adornment, and points out that the appearance of the special appearance and the open mind of the Tang Dynasty are closely related to the existence and influence of the culture of the surrounding minority nationalities.

【学位授予单位】：重庆师范大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2009
【分类号】：G122;K242

【引证文献】