变幻的风景：明代服饰的时尚文化

发布时间：2018-01-08 03:04

本文关键词：变幻的风景：明代服饰的时尚文化　出处：《山东大学》2012年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：当震惊欧亚的蒙古铁骑带着昔日的辉煌隐没历史,为我们留下淡淡的神往的同时,汉人在历史上的最后一次王朝统治也随之拉开序幕。自1368年于战火中始创到1644年在风雨飘摇中崩塌,蹒跚走过了276年沧桑雨露的大明王朝几经盛世几历危机,带给后人太多的热血和传奇。而此时,在大洋的西岸,因为文艺复兴而将长相变得慈眉善目的耶稣正目送十字军的铁蹄踏过东方的土地,随即又被新航路的开辟所代替。当迪亚士的船队自好望角返航,当哥伦布的足迹第一次为美洲大陆停留,当马丁路德为宗教改革号呼奔走,在世界的东方,生于乱世亦毁于乱世的大明王朝正默然屹立,以其博大的文化与斑斓的色彩光耀在群雄并起的历史上。夹在蒙古族和满族两个“异族”王朝中间的明王朝,是最后一个由汉人统治的王朝。在其建立之初及崩溃之际,服饰都是当时社会的焦点之一。在人们的社交活动中,服饰能够最直观的展现出穿着者的身份地位、意趣品味,较之食住行中的菜肴房舍车舆又更易僭越逾制,因此得以更敏锐地反映出社会生活习惯的变迁。明代的服饰制度以繁琐严密而论可谓历代之先,其衣饰服制风格集汉唐之大成。同时,在人们的衣着打扮上,明前期的刻板划一与后期的绮丽奔放形成鲜明对比,变化十分明显。明帝国统治阶级在前期,为保证其等级制度不被破坏,以服饰为媒介,规定严苛。而到中晚期以后,商品经济的发展为服饰文化带来强烈冲击,使其呈现出斑斓多彩的流变趋势,流行时尚随之形成,百余年间明代服饰日新月异,以致磨灭贵贱的界线,时尚之风波及社会各阶层。本文试图通过对明代服饰制度、社会风气作用在服饰上的体现,流行时尚的具体形式与相关影响,时尚与明代士大夫的渊源等问题的讨论,以服饰时尚为切入点,窥探明代前后不同的服饰文化、日渐兴盛的消费活动、真实的世俗生活,以及其表象下所反映出的社会内在变化。文章分为三个部分。第一部分简述了明代服饰制度及明中前期社会整齐划一的着装状况。王朝建立伊始,明代统治者便创立了等级森严条例周备的服饰制度,用以“驱逐胡虏、恢复中华”,明辨夷夏,彰显华夏民族的帝国气象。同时,这也是“辨贵贱、明等威”的必要方式。正是在这样严苛制度的统治下,明代社会在中期以前基本实现了贾谊“见其服而知贵贱,望其章而知其势”的理想追求。明代中期以后,长江下游一些地区商品经济有所发展,人口增加,城市繁荣,出现了一些社会风气转变的情况,“浑厚之风少衰”。但经济的发展并非强大到能够带动整个社会由俭入奢,因此还鲜见华美逾制的服饰流行于世。第二部分着重阐述明代服饰的时尚文化,随着社会变迁的加速,明代建国初建立起来的严苛服制的权威性受到了越来越多的挑战,社会上的服装样式开始发生变化,渐渐有了“时装”,出现了流行时尚。这部分内容在对明代“时尚”进行界定的基础上,重点讨论了晚明服饰的时尚形式、时尚传播的方式与速度、时尚中心以及服饰时尚对晚明经济关系的影响。第三部分是从消费文化的角度,探讨明代服饰时尚对士大夫阶层的影响。流行时尚带动了明代消费活动的活跃,在商品经济日渐受到社会重视的时代,所受冲击最大的当属士大夫阶层。晚明很多文人笔记中都述及服饰变迁,字里行间流露出的情感间接的反映出当时人们的各异心态。此部分分析了士商地位流动、士商竞合情况,以及士大夫为应对服饰时尚所采取的举动,并通过时尚消费看到明代传统消费思想发生的内在变化。
[Abstract]:When shocked the Eurasian Mongolia cavalry with a glorious past hidden history, leaving a faint longing for us at the same time, the Han Dynasty in the history of the last rule also kicked off. Since 1368 to 1644 in the war was in a precarious collapse, walk through 276 years of vicissitudes of the Ming Dynasty after the flourishing of several rain calendar of crisis, bring blood and legend too many generations.
But this time, in the ocean in the West Bank, because of the Renaissance and the appearance of Jesus's eyes become a benevolent and kind countenance of the Crusaders on the east land heel, and then replaced by the opening of new routes. When the fleet from Diaz at Cape return, when Columbo's first stop in the Americas footprint, when Martin Ruud was running religious the reform of cry, in the east of the world, was born in troubled times also destroyed in the troubled times Daming Wang Zhaozheng Moran stand, with its broad culture and beautiful colors in the pack and the glorious history.
Caught in the middle of Mongolian and Manchu two "alien" dynasty Ming Dynasty is the last dynasty. Chinese rule in which the beginning and collapse of the occasion, clothing is one of the focus of the society at that time. In people's social activities, clothing is the most intuitive to show the wearer's identity the status, interest is also taste the dishes in the car and also houses more authority over business, therefore can be more sensitive to reflect the changes of social life habits. The Ming Dynasty clothing system to close in the first is tedious, the clothing dress style in Han Dacheng. At the same time, in people's clothing dress up, rigid and uniform and late in early Ming Dynasty Qili unrestrained contrast, change is very obvious. The Ming Empire in the early stage of the ruling class, in order to ensure the hierarchy is not destroyed, to dress for the media, and to the provisions strict. In the late stage after taking The development of goods economy brings great impact to the clothing culture, so it shows a trend of rheological colorful, fashion is formed, one hundred years of the Ming Dynasty costumes change rapidly, so that all the fashion line faded, storm and all sectors of society.
This paper tries to reflect the social system of the Ming Dynasty costumes, in dress, specific forms and related fashion, to discuss issues such as fashion and origin of the Ming Dynasty scholar, to fashion clothing culture as the breakthrough point, different on before and after the Ming Dynasty thriving, consumption, real life, the internal representation and social changes reflected.
The article is divided into three parts. The first part describes the early Ming Dynasty and the Ming society clothing system of uniform dress. Dynasty was established at the beginning of the Ming Dynasty rulers founded the hierarchical regulation week clothing system, used to expel Hu Lu, to restore the "Yi Xia discernment of Chinese Empire, highlighting the weather. At the same time this is," distinguishing the necessary distinction, Ming Wei ". It is in such a harsh regime under the rule of the Ming Dynasty in the society before the middle of the basic realization of the" Jia Yi see their clothing and know all, hope the chapter and know its potential ideal pursuit. After the mid Ming Dynasty, the lower reaches of the Yangtze River in some areas of goods economic development, population increase, city prosperity, changed some of the social atmosphere, "and the wind is less bad. But economic development is not strong enough to drive the whole society by the extravagance, so rare beauty The clothing of the over system is popular in the world.
The second part focuses on the Ming Dynasty costumes and fashion culture, with the acceleration of the development of society, the authority of the beginning of the founding of the Ming Dynasty set up strict system has attracted more and more challenges, social fashion style began to change gradually with the "fashion", appeared in fashion. This part in the foundation of defining to the Ming Dynasty "fashion", focuses on the late Ming Dynasty clothing fashion, fashion spread way and speed, the influence of fashion and fashion center of the late Ming economic relations.
The third part is from the perspective of consumer culture, to explore the influence of Ming Dynasty fashion of literati. Fashion led to the Ming Dynasty consumption activity, in the commodity economy increasingly attention to the era, the biggest impact is the literati in late Ming Dynasty. All the costumes and many of the notes change between the lines the emotion indirectly reflects people's different mentality. This part analyzes the status of the competitive situation, flow, and action taken to cope with the fashion of literati, and see the internal changes of Ming Dynasty traditional consumption concept occurs through fashion consumption.

【学位授予单位】：山东大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：TS941.1;K248

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