基于茶油的抗衰老化妆品的研究开发
发布时间：2018-01-09 22:32
本文关键词：基于茶油的抗衰老化妆品的研究开发 出处：《合肥工业大学》2017年硕士论文 论文类型：学位论文
【摘要】：随着人们生活水平的提高,社会人口结构变化,老龄化趋势逐年上升,抗衰老化妆品受越来越多人欢迎。尽管医学美容逐渐兴起,以不破坏皮肤生理结构的化妆品仍然是人们的主流抗衰老护肤方式。茶油在我国资源丰富,其含有的抗氧化活性功能是人们近年来研究的热点,并且常被用来与橄榄油比较。在产品开发上,茶油目前在市场上仍以食用油为主,其保健功能没有得到充分的重视与应用,茶油在医药和化妆品方面也有着很大的开发潜力。本课题以市售茶油为研究对象,探究了其作为化妆品用基础油的工艺,研究了其生理活性和对活性成分的渗透性能,为茶油在化妆品中的应用提供技术支持,并开发出一种抗衰老润肤油。主要研究结果如下:(1)对市售茶油的冬化处理进行了工艺的探讨,分析了处理前后茶油中的理化指标、脂肪酸组成变化和活性成分组成。经研究结果得到:茶油在4℃冬化24h,能达到较长的耐寒时间和较好的油脂分离。冬化后酸价、碘值下降,不饱和脂肪酸比之前增加了3.12%。总体来说,冬化提高了茶油的低温稳定性和透明度,达到了化妆品用油的标准。(2)对茶油自身抗氧化性和其对化妆品中活性成分的经皮促渗能力进行了研究。茶油对DPPH·、·OH和O2-·的IC50分别为293,421和343 mg/mL,抗氧化性强于市售橄榄油。茶油对不同化妆品功效成分葛根素、2-氧-α-D-吡喃葡萄糖基抗坏血酸、α-熊果苷和积雪草苷的经皮渗透均表现出较好的促进作用,与不加促透剂相比,茶油的促渗倍数分别为2.78、2.81、3.11、3.70。茶油对脂水分配系数较高的活性物质的经皮渗透效果较好。(3)优化得到抗衰老润肤油的最佳配为:茶油58.2%、甜杏仁油25%、辛酸癸酸甘油三酯15%、茶树精油0.8%、维生素E 0.5%,角鲨烯0.5%。该润肤油符合国标要求的理化和感官指标。研究了该产品对小鼠皮肤光老化的抑制作用。与空白组小鼠相比,涂抹该产品显著降低了光照组小鼠皮肤中的MDA含量,提高了SOD和CAT活性。说明以茶油为基础油制得的该润肤油产品,可以调节皮肤抗氧化酶的活力,减少自由基对皮肤的损伤,延缓皮肤衰老。在41%湿度,25℃下保湿率为90.32%。
[Abstract]:With the improvement of people's living standard, the change of social population structure, the aging trend is rising year by year, anti-aging cosmetics are more and more popular, although medical beauty is rising gradually. Cosmetics that do not destroy the physiological structure of the skin are still the mainstream anti-aging skin care mode. Tea oil is rich in resources in China, and its antioxidant activity is a hot research topic in recent years. And it is often used to compare with olive oil. In product development, tea oil is still mainly edible oil in the market, its health care function has not been fully paid attention to and applied. Tea oil also has great development potential in medicine and cosmetics. The physiological activity and permeability of tea oil to active components were studied in order to provide technical support for the application of tea oil in cosmetics. A kind of anti-aging moisturizing oil was developed. The main results are as follows: 1) the winter treatment of tea oil sold in the market was discussed, and the physicochemical indexes of tea oil before and after treatment were analyzed. The change of fatty acid composition and the composition of active components. The results showed that tea oil could achieve longer cold tolerance time and better oil separation at 4 鈩，
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