我国近代服装新思潮的研究

发布时间：2018-04-18 01:15

  本文选题：服装思潮 + 启蒙　； 参考：《江南大学》2017年硕士论文

【摘要】：我国近代(1840年~1949年)服装新思潮是我国近代社会思潮的一部分,它在近代社会的变革中产生,是近代部分国人对服装的动机、造型、色彩、工艺等内容的新认识。我国近代服装新思潮的“新”是相对我国古代的服装“旧”思潮而言的。这两者具有根本差异,其中前者的本质是人文主义与科学主义,后者的本质是“贵贱有差,衣服有等”的礼教。近代服装新思潮是中国服装近现代化的思想根源,对中国服装的现代化进程具有重要的启蒙意义。根据近代服装新思潮所涉及的具体层面与价值体现的不同,可将近代服装新思潮分为思想的启蒙、艺术的启蒙、技术的启蒙三大类。思想的启蒙,即向民众指明为什么要“变服”,以及如何进行“变服”等问题,阐述了以人文主义与科学主义为核心的穿衣理念与相关实践,艺术的启蒙,即向民众指明“变服”之后,新装束如何为美的问题,阐述了近代服装新思潮在服装造型设计层面及审美价值趋向上的内涵。技术的启蒙,即向民众指明制作和保养“美装”、“新装”的工艺手法与技术手段。近代服装新思潮的启蒙的实现,离不开近代的报刊、法律通告、演讲、竞赛等传播形式。近代报刊是传播近代服装新思潮的主要手段,其面向大众、丰富多彩的形式,为近代服装新思潮的普及奠定了基础。此外,以自由、平等等为核心的服装法律通告,以及有关“变服”的演讲、竞赛、互动也在一定程度上传播了近代服装新思潮。虽然服装新思潮在近代各地区、各阶层之间的传播有差异,但总得来说,其形成离不开我国传统文化的根基。近代服装新思潮中的传统文化根基主要是从思想文化的层面,探讨传统文化在近代服装领域中的传承问题。从先秦的孟子、墨子、老子、庄子到近世的李贽、李渔等人的思想中,均可看到与近代服装新思潮遥相呼应的思想,它们在历史的变迁中演变出新的内涵。近代服装新思潮是近代国人以西方文化为榜样,追求“西化”(即现代化)和融合我国传统文化而“化西”的产物。在以人文主义与科学主义为指导及对服装“道”、“器”的重视下,近代服装的创新与发展得到重视,近代女性解放及她们在服装中的新风貌得以加速呈现。同时,近代乃至近代以后国人整体的思想意识、外在形象,以及我国服装文化的现代化也受到近代服装新思潮的推动。
[Abstract]:The new trend of thought of clothing in modern China (1840 ~ 1949) is a part of the trend of thought in modern society. It has emerged in the transformation of modern society. It is also a new understanding of the motive, modeling, color and technology of clothing among some people in modern times.The "new" trend of thought in modern Chinese clothing is relative to the "old" trend of thought in ancient China.The essence of the former is humanism and scientism.The new trend of thought of modern clothing is the ideological source of Chinese clothing near modernization, and it has important enlightenment significance to the modernization process of Chinese clothing.According to the difference between the concrete level and the value embodiment of the new trend of thought in modern clothing, the new trend of thought of modern clothing can be divided into three categories: the enlightenment of thought, the enlightenment of art and the enlightenment of technology.The enlightenment of thought, that is, to point out to the public why "changing clothes" and how to carry out "changing clothes" and so on, expounds the clothing dressing idea and related practice with humanism and scientism as the core, the enlightenment of art, etc.That is to say, it points out to the public how the new dress is beautiful after "changing clothes", and expounds the connotation of the new trend of modern fashion in the aspect of fashion modeling design and the trend of aesthetic value.The enlightenment of technology, that is, to point out to the public the production and maintenance of "beautiful", "new" techniques and technical means.The enlightenment of the new trend of thought in modern clothing can not be achieved without modern newspapers and periodicals, legal circulars, speeches, competitions and other forms of communication.Modern newspapers and periodicals are the main means of spreading the new trend of thought in modern clothing, which is oriented to the public and has rich and colorful forms, which lays a foundation for the popularization of the new trend of thought in modern clothing.In addition, the clothing legal notice with freedom and equality as the core, as well as the speech, competition and interaction about "changing clothes" also spread the new trend of thought in modern clothing to a certain extent.Although there are differences in the spread of the new trend of thought in modern times among different strata, in general terms, its formation can not be separated from the foundation of Chinese traditional culture.The foundation of traditional culture in the new trend of modern clothing is to probe into the inheritance of traditional culture in the field of modern clothing from the aspect of ideology and culture.From Mencius, Mozi, Laozi, Zhuangzi to Li Zhi and Li Yu in modern times, we can see that the thoughts echo with the new trend of modern clothing, and they have evolved new connotations in the changes of history.The new trend of thought in modern clothing is the product of "westernization" (modernization) and fusion of Chinese traditional culture with "westernization" and "westernization" by modern Chinese people who follow the example of western culture.Under the guidance of humanism and scientism and the emphasis on clothing "Tao" and "instrument", the innovation and development of modern clothing have been emphasized, and the liberation of modern women and their new style in clothing have been speeded up.At the same time, the ideological consciousness, the external image and the modernization of the clothing culture of our country are also promoted by the new trend of thought in the modern times and even after the modern times.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.12
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本文编号：1766140