南通蓝印花布的艺术特征及其在服装设计中的创新应用

发布时间：2018-07-03 19:35

本文选题：南通 + 蓝印花布　；参考：《北京服装学院》2017年硕士论文

【摘要】：蓝印花布是通过花版漏浆的防染手法,用靛蓝染料染制的纺织品,在我国民间服饰历史中是非常重要的一种艺术形式。在社会的不断发展和科技的持续进步中,传统文化受到了现代工业和外来文化的强烈冲击,工业机械化生产逐渐取代了传统的手工艺。近年来各级文化部门对民间艺术逐渐重视,2006年“南通蓝印花布印染技艺”被文化部列为“首批国家非物质文化遗产保护项目”。蓝印花布以其独有的色彩艺术和纹样艺术及其蕴含的深刻的文化内涵重新回到了人们的视线。蓝印花布的传统审美元素,放在现代社会仍然有很多值得借鉴和发扬的特征。本课题以南通地区蓝印花布为主要研究对象,从色彩和纹样两个大方面,分析研究了南通蓝印花布的艺术特征。并尝试将其传统审美元素与现代服装设计相结合,进一步挖掘蓝印花艺术的审美潜能及其应用规律,更好地传承和发展蓝印花布艺术。本课题首先以色彩为研究对象,在通过大量的实物调研,分析精炼南通地区传统蓝印花布的色彩类型,得到南通蓝印花布色彩体系的严格界定,系统的总结南通蓝印花布色彩体系在美感、心理以及现代环保中的特征和意义。并总结分析了南通蓝印花布的色彩体系与古代礼制、宗教传统、地域环境、传统民俗之间的深刻联系,系统的总结南通蓝印花布色彩体系的人文内涵。其次详细探讨了图案艺术特征,以文献调研和实地考察获得的大量蓝印花布图案资料为基础,从造型元素、组织结构、表现题材、纹样形式、文化内涵,共五个方面,浅析南通蓝印花布的图案艺术。进而本课题以上述色彩和图案艺术特征为灵感,考虑现代服装的设计需求,从色彩创新、图案创新、表现形式创新三个方面,探索南通蓝印花布的艺术特征的创新应用规律。最终将传统审美元素与现代女装设计相结合,得到多套创新设计实例。
[Abstract]:Blue printed fabric is a kind of textile dyed with indigo dyestuff, which is a very important art form in the history of folk dress in our country. With the continuous development of society and the continuous progress of science and technology, the traditional culture has been strongly impacted by modern industry and foreign culture, and industrial mechanized production has gradually replaced the traditional handicraft. In recent years, cultural departments at all levels have gradually attached importance to folk art. In 2006, "printing and dyeing techniques of Nantong blue printed fabric" was listed as "the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage protection projects" by the Ministry of Culture. With its unique color art, pattern art and its profound cultural connotation, the blue printed cloth has returned to people's sight. The traditional aesthetic elements of blue printed cloth are still worthy of reference and development in modern society. Taking the blue printed cloth in Nantong area as the main research object, this paper analyzes the artistic characteristics of the blue printed cloth in Nantong from the two aspects of color and pattern. And try to combine its traditional aesthetic elements with modern fashion design, further explore the aesthetic potential of blue printing art and its application law, and better inherit and develop the blue printed fabric art. This subject first takes the color as the research object, through the massive physical investigation, analyzes the refined Nantong area traditional blue printed cloth color type, obtains the Nantong blue printed fabric color system strict definition, This paper systematically summarizes the characteristics and significance of Nantong blue printed fabric color system in aesthetic feeling, psychology and modern environmental protection. The paper also summarizes and analyzes the profound relationship between the color system of Nantong blue printed fabric and the ancient ritual, religious tradition, regional environment and traditional folklore, and systematically summarizes the humanistic connotation of the color system of Nantong blue printed fabric. Secondly, the characteristics of pattern art are discussed in detail, based on a large number of blue printed cloth pattern materials obtained from literature research and field investigation, from five aspects: modeling elements, organizational structure, subject matter, pattern form, cultural connotation, and so on. An Analysis of the pattern Art of Nantong Blue Calico. Then this subject is inspired by the above color and pattern art features, considering the design needs of modern clothing, from the three aspects of color innovation, pattern innovation and expression form innovation, this paper explores the innovative application law of Nantong blue printed fabric. Finally, the traditional aesthetic elements and modern women's clothing design are combined to obtain a number of innovative design examples.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2;TS194

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