民国时期旗袍缘饰的设计研究

发布时间：2019-06-12 13:52

【摘要】：民国时期作为我国旗袍发展的鼎盛时期,其特殊的历史和文化背景赋予这一时期旗袍独特的装饰风格和审美意趣,缘饰作为民国旗袍重要的装饰性设计元素,具有古今、中西服饰文化混同的时代特点,其丰富的表现形式和装饰内容蕴藏着深厚的文化内涵和艺术价值。旗袍缘饰是对旗袍衣料的边缘及接缝部位的修整和装饰处理,对旗袍主体有保护和修饰的作用。本文对旗袍及其缘饰的相关概念作出界定,指出旗袍缘饰的风格特征随旗袍的发展而变化,从实用性、装饰性和社会性三个方面对旗袍缘饰的特征进行了具体的分析。结合民国时期的社会文化背景,对比民国不同时期、不同流派的旗袍及其缘饰设计风格的异同,通过对旗袍缘饰的色彩、构成形式、材料、工艺以及装饰位置等构成要素的具体特征进行详细的梳理与分析,得出这一时期旗袍缘饰具有用色淡雅、形式多样、取材丰富、做工精致、装饰灵活等设计特点。对比现代旗袍和民国旗袍在缘饰的表现形式和工艺技法上的异同,总结其变化成因,并通过对现代消费者的审美心理以及个别服装品牌设计案例的研究,得出将民国时期旗袍缘饰的设计元素应用于现代服装设计具有一定的可行性的结论。基于此,本文从民国时期旗袍缘饰的设计手法和装饰规律中汲取灵感,结合现代的服饰审美和设计手段,通过直接应用和间接应用的方式以及加、减法设计的处理手段展开设计实践探索,将民国旗袍缘饰的色彩、材料以及工艺等设计元素融入现代服装的缘饰设计,为其增添现代感和时尚性的同时,以期为提升现代服装装饰性设计的文化内涵和艺术价值提供一些参考。
[Abstract]:The period of the Republic of China, as the heyday of the development of the Chinese flag, has given the special historical and cultural background of this period to the unique decorative style and aesthetic interest of the banner of the period, which is the important decorative design element of the Republic of China, and has the characteristics of the times of the mixed culture of the ancient and modern and the Chinese and the western. Its rich forms and contents contain profound cultural connotation and artistic value. The dress of the Qipao is the edge of the dress and the finishing and decoration of the seam, and it has the function of protecting and modifying the main body of the cheongsam. This paper defines the related concepts of the cheongsam and its edge, and points out that the characteristics of the cheongsam's origin are analyzed from the three aspects of practicability, decoration and sociality. In the light of the social and cultural background of the Republic of China, compared with the different periods of the Republic of China, the similarities and differences in the design style of the Qipao and its fate in different schools, through the detailed analysis of the specific features of the color, the form, the material, the process and the decoration position, etc., It is concluded that this period is characterized by light and elegant color, various forms, rich material, exquisite workmanship and flexible decoration. In contrast to the similarities and differences between the expression of the modern cheongsam and the pajamas of the Republic of China, the paper summarizes the causes of the change, and through the study of the aesthetic psychology of the modern consumers and the design cases of individual clothing brands, It is concluded that the design element of the Chinese flag of the Republic of China is applied to the modern fashion design and has certain feasibility. On the basis of this, this paper draws inspiration from the design method and the decoration law of the flag of the Republic of China during the Republic of China, and explores the design practice by means of the direct application and the indirect application and the processing means of the addition and subtraction design in combination with the modern clothing aesthetic and design means. The color, material, process and other design elements of the flag of the Republic of China are integrated into the edge decoration design of the modern garment, and the modern sense and the fashion are added, so as to provide some reference for improving the cultural connotation and the artistic value of the decorative design of the modern clothes.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2

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