晚明江南地区妓女服饰研究

发布时间：2018-01-31 18:05

本文关键词： 晚明江南地区妓女服饰僭礼越制奢侈华丽淡雅素净引领时尚　出处：《北京服装学院》2012年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：明朝后期,中央集权统治对地方的控制日趋松弛,江南地区的经济和社会观念发生了很大转变。“江南社会因明初的强权制约一度呈现颇为单纯质朴的面貌,此时却出现了猛烈的反弹,焕发出很大的活力,从而绘制出一幅光怪陆离的生活图景。”1在服饰方面,社会各阶层的服饰僭越现象层出不穷,突破了明朝前期着装等级森严的规制,出现了僭越礼制、标新立异、竞尚奢靡、追求华丽的服饰潮流。晚明时期的妓女,尽管社会地位依然低贱,但由于以士商为主流的狎妓之风盛行,使得她们的物质生活相对宽裕,名妓甚至很是奢侈,为普通妇女所不及。她们的衣着服饰、生活日用全由嫖客置办,由于嫖客之间相互攀比,使得一些妓女大多衣着华丽、精致奇巧,甚至能引导社会服饰的新潮流,出现“时世妆”之称。对于与文人士商阶层关系密切的名妓而言,她们承应了文人的审美理想并拥有自身独特的气质品位,从而形成了淡雅素净的着衣风尚。总之,妓女复杂的社会角色和特殊的身份地位使得她们的服饰形成了晚明“服饰浪潮”中的独特现象。本文以晚明妓女服饰为研究对象,主要就服饰形制、风格特征、服饰风格形成的原因以及妓女服饰引领社会时尚等方面展开论述。希望能以文献和图像材料为基础,用新的视角来审视妓女服饰以及流行风尚的相关问题,从而形成对晚明妓女服饰的深刻认知。
[Abstract]:In the late Ming Dynasty, the centralization of power gradually relaxed the control of local areas, and the economic and social concepts in the south of the Yangtze River changed greatly. "the society of Jiangnan once took on a rather simple appearance because of the restriction of power in the early Ming Dynasty." At this time, there has been a violent rebound, glowing with great vitality, thus drawing a strange picture of life. It breaks through the strict regulation of the early Ming Dynasty dress rank, and appears the trend of overstepping the etiquette system, innovating, competing and extravagant, pursuing the ornate dress trend. The prostitutes of the late Ming Dynasty, although their social status is still low, but because of the prevailing trend of sex prostitution, which makes their material life relatively rich, famous prostitutes are even very luxury. For ordinary women can not. Their clothing, daily life by clients buy, as a result of the customers to compare with each other, so that some prostitutes most of the gorgeous dress, exquisite and ingenious. Even can guide the new trend of social clothing, the emergence of "age makeup". For the famous prostitutes who have close relationship with the literati and business class, they have accepted the literati's aesthetic ideal and have their own unique temperament and taste. In a word, the complicated social roles and special status of prostitutes made their costumes form a unique phenomenon in the "dress wave" of the late Ming Dynasty. This paper takes the dress of prostitutes in the late Ming Dynasty as the research object, mainly on the shape and style of the dress. The reasons for the formation of dress style and the prostitute dress leading the social fashion and other aspects are discussed. It is hoped that based on the literature and image materials, we can examine the relevant issues of the hookers' clothing and fashion from a new perspective. In order to form a deep understanding of the dress of prostitutes in the late Ming Dynasty.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

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