基于女装设计的中西方剪纸艺术对比研究

发布时间：2019-05-12 13:43

【摘要】：目前，世界的剪纸基本上可分为东、西两大派别，笔者分别选取了其中最具代表性的中国民间剪纸和德、法、英等国的欧洲剪纸进行系统的理论研究，在研究西方剪纸基础上借鉴其传承模式，提取其思维特征和在女装应用中的设计语言；在研究中国民间剪纸的基础上，“取其形”，“延其意”，然后结合西方的思维设计理念，将中国民间剪纸运用在现代女装设计之中，从而促进中国民间剪纸的传承和中国民族服装品牌化。民间剪纸在我国的发展历程已过千年，蕴含了浓厚的民族文化。实用性和装饰性兼备的中国民间剪纸出自质朴的民间艺人或农民之手，体现了其集体性、传承性、扩散性等特征。在受到中国传统思维及中国人含蓄民族性格的影响下，民间剪纸呈现了其特殊民俗特征。而以德、法、英为代表的欧洲剪纸是以中国剪纸为母体在16、17世纪传入欧洲。与中国剪纸完全不同的是最初的欧洲剪纸是有社会地位的女性在空闲时间里的艺术创造，后来它又受到西方古典主义艺术文化、现代主义主义文化、后现代主义艺术文化的影响以及与其它艺术形式风格的融合，产生了别具一格的特征。笔者对中国、欧洲剪纸进行系统详实的理论对比性总结，，并发掘其在文化、地域背景下的本质内涵，填补欧洲剪纸理论研究的空白现状，也提取了西方独特的思维特征，为中国民间剪纸在现代女装设计中的应用打下基础。民间剪纸艺术文化是中华文明的重要组成部分，只有保护、传承好民间剪纸，才能够使中国传统文化更加辉煌。我们应该学习欧洲剪纸艺术的传承模式，大胆而创新的突破剪纸原有尺度范围，让剪纸与现代的生活互为融合，才能让中国民间剪纸真正随着现代人的步调继续传承下去，达到剪纸文化的繁荣复苏。运用交叉学科的方式无疑有利于解决我们面临的剪纸传承问题，而选择服装实用装设计与剪纸的融合，也将有利于把我国具有民族化的服装设计推向世界，使之形成品牌化、产业化，摆脱我国服装设计“模仿”现状。笔者就顺应这一趋势，在提取西方剪纸的思维特征和西方剪纸在女装应用中的设计语言的基础上将中国民间剪纸延展其内涵，提取其形状然后应用到现代实用女装设计之中，从而总结出一套切实可行的设计理论。在设计理念的指导下针对20—30年龄层的女性进行实践设计及成品制作，最终提升和丰富其结合的理论分析，为指导剪纸的服装设计实践提出强而有力的理论支撑。
[Abstract]:At present, the world's paper-cut can basically be divided into East and West two major factions, the author selected the most representative of the Chinese folk paper-cut and Germany, France, Britain and other countries of the European paper-cut for a systematic theoretical study. On the basis of studying western paper-cut, draw lessons from its inheritance mode, extract its thinking characteristics and design language in the application of women's clothing; On the basis of studying the Chinese folk paper-cut, "take its shape", "extend its meaning", and then combine the western thinking design idea, apply the Chinese folk paper-cut to the modern women's dress design. Thus promote the inheritance of Chinese folk paper-cut and Chinese national clothing brand. The development of folk paper-cut in our country has been over a thousand years, which contains a strong national culture. Chinese folk paper-cut, which is both practical and decorative, comes from the hands of simple folk artists or farmers, which embodies the characteristics of collectivity, inheritance, diffusion and so on. Influenced by the Chinese traditional thinking and the implicit national character of the Chinese people, the folk paper-cut presents its special folk custom characteristics. The European paper-cut represented by Germany, France and Britain was introduced into Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries with Chinese paper-cut as its parent. Completely different from Chinese paper-cut, the original European paper-cut was the artistic creation of women with social status in their free time, and later it was subjected to western classical art culture and modernist culture. The influence of post-modernism art culture and the fusion with other art forms and styles have produced unique characteristics. The author makes a systematic and detailed theoretical comparative summary of Chinese and European paper-cut, and explores its essential connotation under the cultural and regional background, fills in the blank status quo of European paper-cut theory research, and also extracts the unique thinking characteristics of the West. It lays a foundation for the application of Chinese folk paper-cut in modern women's dress design. Folk paper-cut art and culture is an important part of Chinese civilization. Only by protecting and inheriting folk paper-cut can Chinese traditional culture be more brilliant. We should learn the inheritance mode of European paper-cut art, boldly and innovatively break through the original scale of paper-cut, so that paper-cut and modern life can be integrated with each other, so that Chinese folk paper-cut can really continue to inherit with the pace of modern people. To achieve the prosperity and recovery of paper-cut culture. The use of cross-disciplinary approach is undoubtedly conducive to solving the paper-cut inheritance problem we are facing, and the choice of practical clothing design and paper-cut integration will also be conducive to the nationalization of China's clothing design to the world, so that it will form a brand. Industrialization, get rid of our country clothing design "imitation" present situation. In accordance with this trend, on the basis of extracting the thinking characteristics of western paper-cut and the design language of western paper-cut in women's clothing application, the author extends the connotation of Chinese folk paper-cut, abstracts its shape and applies it to modern practical women's clothing design. Thus a set of feasible design theory is summarized. Under the guidance of the design concept, the practical design and finished product production are carried out for the women of 20 / 30 age group, and the theoretical analysis of the combination is finally promoted and enriched, which puts forward a strong and powerful theoretical support for guiding the clothing design practice of paper-cut.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J528.1

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