近代中原地区汉族服饰文化流变与其现代传播研究

发布时间：2018-02-03 00:07

  本文关键词： 近代汉族民间服饰 中原地域 服饰变迁 文化传播　出处：《江南大学》2017年博士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：互联网与新媒体技术高速发展为人们带来便捷生活的同时也弱化了文化的多元性与差异性,原有农耕文明构建下庞大的中华民间文化即将消散。近年来,传统文化复兴热潮促进了我国服饰遗产的保护与传承,但国内学者往往对特殊地域的少数民族服饰表现出极大的热情,而对在时间和空间上均占主导地位的中原汉族民间服饰研究却明显不够。服饰是社会发展与文化变迁的视觉语言,是被符号化的文化传播媒介。独特的地理环境与人文氛围促使中原地区形成了汉族与少数民族交融多样的服饰文化遗产,是凝结我国璀璨民间艺术精神的重要载体,也是当今信息全球化背景下,保持中华民族文化独立性的宝贵财富。对近代中原汉族民间服饰变迁的研究,不仅可以透过其流变现象掌握社会发展规律与地域文化特征,同时考析服饰作为文化传播媒介的属性及与社会变革的相互关系,为当下传统服饰文化遗产保护与传播提供经验参照。本文从以中原汉族民间服饰为研究对象,选取近代这一时间段,通过大量服饰传世品实物分析,结合地方史志、近代报刊杂志、著作、论文等文献资料考证,探讨了服饰形制、材质、色彩、装饰、图案等艺术特征以及典型礼仪服饰的流变,借鉴传播学、符号学原理,探究了服饰的媒介属性、文化传播机制以及近代中原民间服饰文化传播方式变革与服饰流变的相互关系,并结合中原传统服饰文化传播现状,提出其传统服饰文化现代传播策略。主要结论如下：(一)以广大农村为主的近代中原民间着装多沿习明清服饰上衣下裳的旧制,呈现中西杂糅、缓慢西化的状态。服饰种类丰富,造型变化多样,具有“重缝纫,轻裁剪”、“重配饰、轻服装”的特征。利用图像处理技术提出了基于Mean-shift聚类分析的传统服饰实物图像主体色彩检测方法,中原地区民间服饰倾向于玄、赤、青三色,图案配色多遵循题材本身色彩,采用“色彩推移”的色彩搭配原则：刺绣、缘饰等装饰工艺拙质朴实又清新秀丽,兼具南北刺绣特色：服饰材料以棉、麻、丝等天然纤维为主要原料,因服装形制与着装场合的需要,选材差异性明显。(二)中原地区汉族民间服饰习俗与信仰保留完整,礼仪服饰款式稳定。近代中原汉族民间礼仪服饰主要包含诞生、婚嫁、丧葬三种类型,诞生礼仪服饰寓意趋吉避害,子嗣繁衍昌盛的传统观念。婚礼服饰受近代以来外来文化的影响,中西合璧、移风易俗的现象明显。丧葬礼仪服饰遵循“丧服,以辨亲疏,葬服,以佑后代”的民俗文化内涵,体现中原重伦理、孝道的传统观念。服饰色彩、图案、刺绣等艺术形式是表现中原服饰文化内涵的重要载体,不仅富有地域性的审美取向与约定俗成的行为规范,同时注重人际间与代系间文化传播的伦理教化意义。(三)近代中原汉族民间服饰变迁经历了一个循序渐进的过程。服饰形制、色彩、装饰图案等外在表象更加丰富,服装搭配方式多样,着装行为及选择自由度空间增大,逾制之风盛行。政治、经济与文化的变革是影响近代中原民间服饰流变的重要因素,其中政治因素起到引导作用,经济为服饰流变提供了物质基础,而近代以来逐渐平等、民主的文化传播环境是促使服饰变革的主要推动力。(四)服饰在文化传播过程中是物质实体、符号指代与信息要素三个层面合一的媒介。服饰作为文化传播媒介具有传播内容丰富、传播效果及时直观、传播方向时代差异性明显、传播方式多样的特征。传播方式由传播关系和传播工具构成,近代文化传播主体更加多元,由封建统治阶层、皇宫贵族转向政治人物、社会精英、知识分子、社交名媛等群体。报刊、杂事、电影等大众传媒技术的进步是影响中原汉族服饰文化流变的重要因素。(五)日新月异的媒体技术改变了原有传播方式,并逐步构建着新的文化格局,服饰文化传播由大众媒体时代逐层传播转向由点到点、由点到面及由面到面的网状传播。根据接触服饰信息的层次重新划分了受众类型,指出在当今消费社会,消费者是服饰文化传播的核心推动力,传统服饰的实用性是影响消费者接受度的重要因素；最后,结合中原传统服饰文化传播现状,提出以服饰文化传播受众即广大消费者为核心,培养文化自信,促进消费增长是传统服饰文化得以广泛传播的有效途径。
[Abstract]:The rapid development of the Internet and new media technology brings convenience for people's life also weaken the diversity of cultural differences and the original construction of large farming civilization of Chinese folk culture will disappear. In recent years, the revival of traditional culture to promote the upsurge of China's clothing heritage protection and inheritance, but domestic scholars tend to particular regions. The ethnic costumes showed great enthusiasm, and Study on the Han folk costumes were dominant in time and space is obviously not enough. Clothing is the social development and cultural changes of the visual language, culture media was symbolic. The geographical environment and the unique cultural atmosphere of the region of the Han nationality and prompted the Central Plains blend of diverse minority costume culture heritage, is an important carrier of China's bright condensation the spirit of folk art, is also the information under the background of globalization, holding in Treasure of Chinese culture. The independence of the study on modern Han nationality folk costume changes, not only through its rheological phenomenon to grasp the laws of social development and the characteristics of regional culture, at the same time the examination of the clothing as attributes of culture media and social change in the relationship, to provide experience for reference for the present traditional costume culture heritage protection and spread. Based in the Central Plains Han folk costume as the research object, selected in this period, through a large number of apparel goods handed down physical analysis, combined with the local history, modern newspapers and magazines, books, papers and other documents research, discusses the costume style, material, color, decorative pattern art, rheological characteristics and typical etiquette fashion, using the dissemination principle, semiotics, explores the media properties of costumes, cultural transmission mechanism and the modern Central Plains Folk Costume spread of culture change and The relationship between clothing rheology, combined with the status quo of traditional costume culture of the Central Plains spread, the traditional costume culture of the modern communication strategy. The main conclusions are as follows: (a) in the vast rural areas mainly in Modern Central Plains along the Xi sang a folk dress of the Ming and Qing Dynasties dress coat, showing the combination of Chinese and Western culture, slowly westernized state. A variety of clothing, other variety, with "heavy light cutting, sewing," "heavy clothing accessories, characteristics of light" is proposed. The measurement method of traditional clothing physical image subject Mean-shift clustering analysis based on color detection using image processing technology, the Central Plains folk costumes tend to black, red, cyan color pattern, followed the theme color the color goes on, "the color collocation principle: embroidery, decorative edging process simple and humble quality fresh and beautiful, both north and south of embroidery: clothing material characteristics of cotton, hemp, silk etc. 澶╃劧绾ょ淮涓轰富瑕佸師鏂，

本文编号：1485847