徽州三雕人物的服饰造型研究

发布时间：2018-05-16 17:47

本文选题：徽州文化 + 徽州三雕人物　；参考：《安徽工程大学》2014年硕士论文

【摘要】：徽州“三雕”作为徽派建筑上的精美装饰,与建筑整体巧妙融合,是徽文化的重要显性标识之一。以人物为题材的三雕作品,以儒学为主干,杂糅着民间佛道信仰而自成一体,反映了徽州百姓生活中的艺术化追求,是中华传统文化的“活化石”。其中的人物形象更是服饰艺术的现实性表达,可谓是中国传统服饰尤其是明清服饰艺术的袖珍缩影。本研究以徽州三雕人物形象的服饰造型为主体,意在通过服饰勾绘出当时社会的政治、经济、军事、伦理、审美、宗教、生活风俗和社会思潮等诸多价值体系,为徽州文化和徽州三雕的研究以及现代时装设计提供建设性的参考。论文所选择的图片研究资料主要来自皖南民居建筑、安徽省博物院、徽州文化博物馆、合肥源泉博物馆和芜湖徽商博物馆。收集的这些徽州人物三雕实物图片为本课题的研究提供了直观的研究资料。除了这些三雕实物图片资料外,论文的研究过程中还借鉴了很多服装文献史料上的服饰图片资料,以及古代建筑雕刻研究书籍中相关的三雕人物图片,包括小说绣像和专著插图,这些也成为论文重要的旁证研究资料。对以上相关研究资料的整合表明,大多数现有的研究是在阐述徽州三雕人物故事的同时略带人物服饰的介绍。尽管在这些文献资料中不乏文化大家从全局观对中国古典服饰的精辟论述,但以徽州地域为切入点的徽州人物三雕服饰文化研究却没有系统的资料。所以通过三雕为载体的人物服饰造型研究可以填补徽州文化研究的空白点,具有一定的研究价值。徽州三雕人物服饰造型包含着庞杂的系统。首先,论文以徽州地域文化作为课题研究的基石,对其进行了系统的概述。分析了徽州三雕人物题材的创作背景和动因,即在无形精神儒学礼教资源的催化下、徽商大贾提供有形物质财富的推动下、以及徽州姊妹艺术——徽州戏曲、徽派版画形态的相互融合中出现的。然后概括了三雕人物题材内容为服饰的归类做铺垫。其次,论文将它们按照人物性别差异、人物阶级和社会等级不同以及在服饰发展中出现的特殊门类——戏服和宗教服饰,分别进行了论述。在对服饰造型整体梳理后,结合图片资料运用比较和归纳的方法对其各类服饰进行了分析,并辅以鲜明直观的自绘人物服饰线稿图和服饰款式图方式予以展现。最后,对研究的徽州三雕人物服饰做了综合分析。从人物服饰造型的多元化、文艺化的角度,从传统服饰审美总体特质的呈现以及传统服饰的特殊分支戏曲服饰的美学和宗教服饰的神话美学等多方面来分析了徽州三雕人物服饰的审美特征。旨在最后归纳总结出基于地域文化的礼俗视野下徽州三雕人物服饰蕴涵的服饰文化品格。论文的研究对丰富徽州文化和徽州三雕的研究将有一定的帮助,同时也为服饰文明的传承与创新提供有益的参考。
[Abstract]:As an exquisite decoration in Huizhou architecture, Huizhou's "three carvings" are skillfully fused with the whole architecture and are one of the important dominant symbols of Huizhou culture. The three carving works with characters as the subject matter, Confucianism as the main body, mixed with folk Buddhism and Taoism, reflect the pursuit of art in Huizhou people's life, and are "living fossils" of Chinese traditional culture. The figure image is the realistic expression of costume art, and it is the miniature of Chinese traditional dress, especially the dress art of Ming and Qing dynasties. The main body of this study is the costume modeling of Huizhou's three carved figures, which is intended to draw out the political, economic, military, ethical, aesthetic, religious, life customs and social trends of value of the society at that time. It provides a constructive reference for the study of Huizhou culture and Huizhou three carvings as well as modern fashion design. The research materials are mainly from the buildings in southern Anhui Province, the Anhui Museum, the Huizhou Cultural Museum, the Hefei Fountainhead Museum and the Wuhu Huizhou Merchants Museum. The collection of these Huizhou figures three-carving object pictures for the study of this subject provides intuitive research materials. In addition to these three sculptures, the paper also draws lessons from many clothing documents and historical materials, as well as the related pictures of the three carving figures in the ancient architectural sculpture research books. Including novel embroidery and monograph illustrations, these also become important circumstantial research materials. The integration of the above research data shows that most of the existing research is to explain the Huizhou three carving characters at the same time with the introduction of character clothing. Although there is no lack of cultural people from the overall view of the Chinese classical clothing exposition, but Huizhou region as the breakthrough point of Huizhou figure SanDiao clothing culture research has no systematic data. Therefore, the research of figure costume modeling based on three carvings can fill the blank spot of Huizhou culture research, and has certain research value. Huizhou three carving figures dress style contains a complex system. First of all, the paper takes Huizhou regional culture as the cornerstone of the research, and gives a systematic overview of it. This paper analyzes the background and motivation of the creation of Huizhou's three carved characters, that is, under the catalysis of intangible spiritual Confucian ethics resources, the Huizhou merchants provide tangible material wealth, and Huizhou's sister art-Huizhou opera. Huizhou print form in the fusion of the emergence. Then summarized the content of the three carving characters for clothing classification. Secondly, according to the gender difference of characters, the class and social class of characters, and the special categories of costume and religious dress that appear in the development of costume, the thesis discusses them respectively. After combing the whole dress modeling, this paper analyzes all kinds of clothing by using the method of comparing and summarizing the picture materials, and presents them with vivid and intuitionistic self-drawing figure dress line draft drawing and dress style drawing method. At last, the article makes a comprehensive analysis of Huizhou's three-carvings' costumes. From the point of view of the diversification and literary style of people's clothing, This paper analyzes the aesthetic characteristics of Huizhou's three carved characters from the aspects of the presentation of the overall aesthetic characteristics of traditional dress, the aesthetics of traditional costume's special branch opera costume and the mythological aesthetics of religious dress. The purpose of this paper is to sum up the dress cultural character of Huizhou's three carved figures in the view of etiquette and custom based on regional culture. The research of this paper will be helpful to enrich Huizhou culture and Huizhou three carvings, and also provide a useful reference for the inheritance and innovation of costume civilization.
【学位授予单位】：安徽工程大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2014
【分类号】：TS941.11

【参考文献】