重构的“正宗性”:云南普洱茶跨时空的“风土”

发布时间：2018-09-15 06:39

【摘要】：以普洱茶原产地之一、云南西双版纳易武乡的茶叶经济的兴起为例,探讨在跨时间、跨空间和跨情境的转变中,该地普洱茶的价值标准及与其相关的地方文化形象如何逐渐被确立的过程。法国红酒经历上百年时间逐渐树立其独特的地理标志概念"风土"的过程,以及由"风土"所引发的一系列人类学论述,是讨论普洱茶案例的重要参照体系。通过叙述普洱茶自身"风土"概念的建构过程,拟对西方学者有关物品生产和消费环节里有关"正宗性"的经典论述做出回应,以探讨中国当代消费热、收藏热的特殊性。通过分析提出,普洱茶"风土"标准的形成,是在普洱茶所置身的独特的社会文化背景下,在经济利益、文化建构、地方互动、政府导向等多种力量的驱动下逐渐形成的。
[Abstract]:Taking Yiwu Township, Xishuangbanna, Yunnan Province as an example, this paper discusses the value standard of Pu'er Tea and how the local cultural image of Pu'er Tea has been gradually established in the process of time, space and context transformation. The process of the concept of "geomancy" and a series of anthropological expositions triggered by "geomancy" are important reference systems for discussing Pu'er tea cases. By describing the construction process of the concept of "geomancy" in Pu'er tea itself, this paper intends to respond to the classical expositions of "authenticity" in the production and consumption of goods by Western scholars, so as to explore the authenticity of Pu'er tea. Through the analysis, it is pointed out that the formation of Pu'er Tea's "local custom" standard is driven by various forces, such as economic interests, cultural construction, local interaction and government guidance, under the unique social and cultural background of Pu'er Tea.
【作者单位】：澳大利亚国立大学;
【分类号】：F426.82

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