明代丝绸服用的禁限与僭越

发布时间:2018-09-12 12:03
【摘要】:明代政府对丝绸的织造和服用有严格的禁限,从质料、色彩、图案和装饰手段方面做出了明确规定,并对各种僭越服用的现象规定相应的惩戒措施,以区分等级、辨明身份。明代中期之后,帝王多有厚赐,时时打破常规,对亲贵、重臣、外夷赐以逾级的高档丝绸,促成自上而下的奢侈之风。民间效仿上层,大量使用丝绸,服用风气在屡屡禁令与不断僭越的矛盾中渐趋混乱,导致明代晚期丝绸服用制度名存实亡。
[Abstract]:The government of the Ming Dynasty had strict restrictions on silk weaving and clothing. It made clear provisions on material, color, pattern and decoration means, and provided corresponding disciplinary measures for the phenomenon of illegal use, in order to distinguish the grade and identify the identity. After the middle of the Ming Dynasty, the emperors often broke the convention and gave more than a grade of high grade silk to the pro-noble, important officials and foreign barbarians, which contributed to the luxury from the top to the bottom. Following the example of the upper class, the folk used silk in large quantities, and the fashion of taking was gradually confused in the contradiction between the repeated prohibitions and the incessant surmounting, which resulted in the silk wearing system in the late Ming Dynasty surviving in name.
【作者单位】: 清华大学美术学院;
【基金】:河南省社科联项目“欣赏性刺绣的发展历史与产业空间研究”(SKL-2013-865)阶段性成果
【分类号】:TS941.1;K248

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