先秦服饰审美文化研究

发布时间：2019-01-26 10:57

【摘要】：先秦时期在中国古代服饰审美文化发展史中具有重要意义。从远古到商代是中华民族文化意识形成的最初阶段，也是服饰审美文化的滥觞时期；西周统治者“制礼作乐”，作为礼乐制度的重要组成部分，冕服制度开始成熟，奠定了华夏中国“衣冠王国”、“礼仪之邦”的基调；春秋末年到战国时代被称作中国思想史的“轴心时代”，这一阶段也是中国古代服饰审美文化发展的最重要时期，后世关于服饰的各种审美理想及审美态度，乃至服饰之外的审美文化特点，都能在这个时期找到源头。本文将先秦时期分作远古、商代、西周、春秋、战国五个阶段，分别对这五个阶段的服饰审美文化发展进行了考察和分析。本文在将思辨推理与实证分析结合起来的基础上，采取史论结合的方法，试图对先秦服饰审美文化做出静态的结构分析与动态的历时的史的描述。对于先秦服饰审美文化的结构分析和史的描述，本文主要围绕两个问题进行：第一，在服饰的诸多可能性当中，先秦服饰为什么做出了这一种而不是那一种审美选择?第二，作为一种文化符号，服饰在先秦审美文化中，如何实现其昭名分、辨等威、表德劝善的符号功能? 这两方面问题的解决，除了要考虑特定时代、特定地域的自然条件以及技术生产水平等因素，还要看到一定时代的的服饰(包括穿戴行为)与一定时代的社会结构、文化结构之间的密切关系，以及隐藏在服饰物态背后的文化意向、哲学和美学观念、社会价值观、生理心理学等因素对服饰的重要影响。本文尝试将先秦服饰审美文化放到具体的“民族文化结构”、“民族社会结构”当中，联系“民族心理结构”和“民族思维结构”，对这两个问题做出具体的文化分析，寻找相应的文化解释。本文提出，在中国古代的宗法文化背景下，受中国古代理性和感性分裂不彻底从而未能各自充分发展的“民族心理结构”的影响，在“实践理性”指导下的儒家，将服饰作为昭名分、辨等威、别贵贱的工具，致力于通过服饰对不同个体的社会身份做出区分，，并在此基础上，使个体融入一个尊卑有序、秩序井然的社会整体当中；而讲究“齐
[Abstract]:The pre-Qin period is of great significance in the history of Chinese ancient costume aesthetic culture. From the ancient times to the Shang Dynasty, it is the initial stage of the formation of the Chinese nation's cultural consciousness, and it is also the origin period of the costume aesthetic culture. As an important part of the ritual and music system, the rulers of the Western Zhou Dynasty, as an important part of the ritual and music system, began to mature in the coronation system, which laid the tone of "the Kingdom of dress and the Crown" and "the Land of Rites" in China. The late Spring and Autumn period to the warring States period was called the "Axis Age" in the history of Chinese thought. This stage is also the most important period for the development of Chinese ancient costume aesthetic culture. Even the aesthetic cultural characteristics beyond clothing can be found in this period. This paper divides the pre-Qin period into five stages: ancient times, Shang Dynasty, Western Zhou Dynasty, Spring and Autumn period and warring States period. Based on the combination of speculative reasoning and empirical analysis, this paper attempts to make a static structural analysis and dynamic diachronic description of the aesthetic culture of pre-Qin dress by using the method of historical theory. For the pre-Qin dress aesthetic culture structure analysis and historical description, this paper mainly around two questions: first, among the many possibilities of dress, why did pre-Qin dress make this kind of aesthetic choice instead of that one? Second, as a cultural symbol, clothing in the pre-Qin aesthetic culture, how to achieve its distinction, differentiation and other power, the symbol function of moral persuasion? In order to solve these two problems, we should not only take into account the natural conditions of a particular era, the natural conditions of a particular region and the level of technological production, but also see the clothing (including wearing behavior) of a certain era and the social structure of a certain era. The close relationship between cultural structure and the important influence of cultural intention, philosophy and aesthetics, social values, physiological psychology and so on. This paper tries to put the aesthetic culture of pre-Qin dress into the concrete "national cultural structure" and "national social structure", connecting with "national psychological structure" and "national thinking structure", to make a specific cultural analysis of these two problems. Look for the corresponding cultural explanation. Under the background of patriarchal clan culture in ancient China, the Confucian school is influenced by the "national psychological structure" which is not fully developed in ancient China because of the incomplete division of reason and sensibility, and under the guidance of "practical rationality". The article takes the clothing as a tool of distinction, and other means, and devotes to distinguish the social identity of different individuals through clothing, and on this basis, makes the individual into an orderly and orderly social whole. And pay attention to "Qi"
【学位授予单位】：山东大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2006
【分类号】：J523.5;K225

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