小道可观—民国旗袍裁剪法研究

发布时间：2018-01-12 21:02

本文关键词：小道可观—民国旗袍裁剪法研究　出处：《北京服装学院》2017年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：旗袍是上个世纪最令人瞩目的代表性中国女装,既保持了民族性,又符合时代要求,是基于传统的创新经典。民国时期的旗袍经历了三个阶段的发展变化,其服装结构由中国传统的平面结构逐步演变成为西式立体结构。本文从裁剪法的角度对这个演变过程进行分析梳理,阐明这并非是一种技术的进步,而是东西方文化之间的博弈过程,其中的利弊得失在今天值得我们重新反思。清末的满汉女装互相融合,取长补短,产生了今天我们所说的旗袍,它是民国女性自主的选择。旗袍在初期延续了传统的“T”字形平面结构,衣身正中有中缝。民国中期的改良旗袍是旗袍发展的高峰,无论是款式、材质、工艺、还是普及程度、国际影响至今都无法超越。它在保持平面结构的基础上取消了大身的中缝,这一关键性的改良是这一时期旗袍裁剪技术的核心所在,体现了中国工匠的智巧,是今天的制衣技术无法达到的。后期的旗袍已经脱离了传统,变成了一件保留有部分中式符号的现代服装。本文旨在深刻思考旗袍结构背后的文化内涵,并以实物与文献的对照研究,着力挖掘旗袍裁剪法的详细步骤与操作要领,希望为继承传统旗袍工艺做一些有意义的事情。
[Abstract]:It is the most remarkable representative of the last century China of women, while maintaining the nationality, and meet the requirements of the times, is the traditional innovation based on the period of the Republic of China. The classic cheongsam has undergone three stages, the clothing structure from the traditional plane structure Chinese gradually evolved into the Western three-dimensional structure. This paper analyzes the on the evolution process from the angle of cutting method, that this is not a technology, but between the East and west culture game process, advantages and disadvantages of which we rethink today. At the end of the Qing Dynasty Manchu women combine with each other, learn from each other, we have said today it is independent of the female cheongsam the cheongsam in the early choice. The continuation of the traditional "T" shaped body has a planar structure, median raphe. In the mid of the cheongsam cheongsam is the peak of development, both styles, The material, technology, or popularity, international influence still can not go beyond. It eliminates the body while maintaining the raphe plane structure, improvement of this key is the core of the cheongsam cutting technology in this period, reflects the China craftsmen ingenuity, is unable to achieve the garment technology today. Later the cheongsam has been out of the traditional, has become a modern garment retains part of Chinese symbols. This paper aims at the deep thinking of Qipao structure behind the cultural connotation, and a comparative study of physical and literature, detailed steps and operating essentials to explore cheongsam cutting method, hope to do some meaningful things to inherit the traditional cheongsam process.

【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.717.8

【相似文献】