畲族织锦带研究及其在当代服装设计中的创新应用

发布时间：2018-02-12 12:54

本文关键词： 畲族传统服饰畲族织锦带文化特征现代服装设计创新应用　出处：《北京服装学院》2017年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：畲族,是我国人口较少的民族之一,畲族自称“山哈”,意为居住在山里的客人。畲族在长期的历史迁移和民族发展过程中形成了“大分散、小聚居”的特性,尤以畲汉杂居形态居多,浙闽地区的畲族服装制作、银器制作,以及织锦带编织等传统技艺相继被列入省级非物质文化遗产名录。值得注意的是,不同地区的畲族传统服饰虽然存在一脉相承的延续性,同时也具有各自地域文化的独特性。福建霞浦半月里畲族村坐落于群山环绕之中,闭塞的生活环境为我们研究畲族民间艺术提供了相对充足的材料与依据。本课题主要通过对福建半月里畲族村的田野调查,以及对历史资料、相关著作的搜集、博物馆的调查研究相结合的方法,挖掘畲族织锦带深厚的历史渊源、审美艺术和文化内涵。在设计应用方面,首先要梳理并确定畲族织锦带典型样式与核心设计要素,分析畲族织锦带美学意义及构成,为后来者传承、开发、应用提供依据;其次,以现代服饰设计手法及审美标准,并从当代畲族生活方式和着装需求出发,通过对畲族织锦带艺术的现代解读,将传统畲族织锦带核心要素进行提取、转化、延展、再应用等设计方法,实现对畲族织锦带的创新,在此基础上,从现代审美观念和设计理念出发,遵循形式关法则,运用“形神同构”的设计方法,在保留织锦带传统韵味的基础上加以创新,并结合现代服装设计中民族元素的应用案例以及自己的系列设计作品,对所论述内容进行佐证。本课题的研究,一方面丰富了畲族服饰文化领域的研究,另一方面,在设计中寻找从民族传统艺术中汲取营养的方法,探索民族艺术与现代设计语言结合的切入点,将民族传统服饰特色融入到现代设计中,这不仅是对畲族服饰文化的保护、传承与延续,而且有利于加深现代人对民族服饰文化的价值认同,以期为传承民族服饰文化和丰富现代服装多样性提供参考,具有应用价值和理论研究价值。
[Abstract]:The she nationality, one of the ethnic groups with a relatively small population in China, calls itself "Shanha", meaning the guests living in the mountains. During the long history of migration and the development of the nationality, the she nationality has formed the characteristic of "large dispersion and small settlement". In particular, the traditional techniques of she nationality clothing production, silverware making, and brocade belt weaving were listed on the list of provincial intangible cultural heritage, especially in the mixed forms of she and Han nationalities. It is worth noting that the traditional techniques of the she nationality in the area of Zhejiang and Fujian have been included in the list of intangible cultural heritages at provincial level. The she nationality's traditional dress in different areas has a continuity of continuity and also has the uniqueness of its own regional culture. The she village in Xiapu, Fujian Province, is surrounded by mountains for half a month. The closed living environment provides us with relatively sufficient materials and basis for the study of folk art of the she nationality. This subject is mainly based on the field investigation of the she nationality village in Fujian half a month, as well as the collection of historical materials and related works. The methods of investigation and research of the museum are combined to excavate the deep historical origin, aesthetic art and cultural connotation of the she nationality brocade belt. In the design and application, the typical style and core design elements of the she nationality brocade belt should be combed and determined. This paper analyzes the aesthetic significance and composition of she nationality brocade belt, which provides the basis for the inheritance, development and application of the she nationality's brocade belt. Secondly, based on the modern dress design techniques and aesthetic standards, and from the contemporary she nationality life style and dress needs, Through the modern interpretation of the she nationality brocade belt art, the traditional she nationality brocade belt core elements are extracted, transformed, extended and reapplied to realize the innovation of the she nationality brocade belt. Proceeding from the modern aesthetic concept and design idea, following the law of formal relation and applying the design method of "form and spirit isomorphism", the paper innovates on the basis of retaining the traditional charm of tapestry. And combined with the application of ethnic elements in modern fashion design and their own series of design works, the content of this paper is supported. On the one hand, the research of this topic enriches the research in the field of she nationality clothing culture, on the other hand, It is not only the protection of the she nationality costume culture to seek the method of drawing nutrition from the traditional national art in the design, to explore the cut-in point of the combination of the national art and the modern design language, but also to integrate the characteristics of the national traditional dress into the modern design. Inheritance and continuation are conducive to deepening the value identity of modern people to the national costume culture, in order to provide a reference for the inheritance of national costume culture and enrich the diversity of modern clothing, which has applied value and theoretical research value.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2

【引证文献】