高档化妆品用茶油的制备及其性能研究

发布时间：2018-04-13 08:45

  本文选题：茶油 + 油腻性　； 参考：《合肥工业大学》2017年硕士论文

【摘要】：在日本,精制茶油已被应用于多种天然的高级美容护肤品。但我国的茶油主要作为食用油使用,在化妆品方面的应用很少。限制茶油在化妆品中应用的因素之一就是茶油在涂抹后会在皮肤表面残留一部分油腻物质,容易吸收灰尘,产生不舒适的肤感。本文主要目的就是确定茶油中产生油腻感的成分,并采取有效的措施降低或去除其中的油腻物质。对处理后茶油的理化性质和安全性进行评价,并与未处理茶油及市售的化妆品基础油进行比较,分析其在化妆品中的适应性。主要研究结果如下:1)采用Franz扩散池法探究茶油的渗透性,并与橄榄油和甜杏仁油进行比较,得到油脂的渗透速率与其饱和脂肪酸含量呈反比。同时采用GC对茶油渗透前后的脂肪酸组成进行了分析,渗透8h后接收池中饱和脂肪酸含量降低了50%,不饱和脂肪酸含量升高,供给池中则与接收池相反。说明茶油中难以渗透的物质为饱和脂肪酸。进一步对含不同浓度饱和脂肪酸的茶油油腻性进行感官评分,确定了饱和脂肪酸产生油腻感的浓度阈值为6%。2)茶油中饱和脂肪酸的去除采用脂肪酶催化酯化与尿素包合相结合的方法。以合成50%异丙酯所需时间为考察指标,脂肪酶催化酯化的最佳工艺条件为:超声功率200 W、超声预处理时间5 min、酶添加量220 U/g、异丙醇与茶油比6:1、反应温度60℃,在此条件下反应所需时间3h。同时考察了脂肪酶Novozym 435的使用稳定性,其在重复使用8次后仍具有较高的活力,说明该脂肪酶稳定性良好。尿素包合去除饱和脂肪酸的最佳工艺条件为:尿脂比3:1、包合温度-20℃、包合时间12 h。在此条件下不饱和脂肪酸纯度在94.8%以上,得率在78.3%以上,饱和脂肪酸的去除率在50%以上。3)对处理后茶油的理化性质和安全性进行了评估。结果表明处理后茶油的酸值和黏度均有较显著的降低,酸值从1.09 mg KOH/g降到0.18 mg KOH/g,黏度则从62.44 mpa·s降到14.57 mpa·s。此外,处理后茶油在过氧化值、皂化值和折光率上均略优于未处理茶油,且各指标与市售的甜杏仁油相近。急性皮肤刺激性试验的结果表明,处理后茶油的皮肤刺激反应评分低于0.49,对皮肤没有刺激性。RBC溶血试验的结果表明产品的溶血率为7.47%,低于未处理茶油的9.62%,并且不会对皮肤产生刺激性,在化妆品中的应用具有较高的安全性。
[Abstract]:In Japan, refined tea oil has been used in a variety of natural beauty and skin care products.However, tea oil is mainly used as edible oil in our country, and is seldom used in cosmetics.One of the factors limiting the application of tea oil in cosmetics is that tea oil will remain some greasy substances on the skin surface after smearing, which can easily absorb dust and produce uncomfortable skin feeling.The main purpose of this paper is to determine the greasy components in tea oil and to take effective measures to reduce or remove greasy substances.The physical and chemical properties and safety of the treated tea oil were evaluated and compared with the untreated tea oil and the cosmetic base oil sold in the market. The adaptability of the treated tea oil in cosmetics was analyzed.The main results are as follows: (1) the permeability of tea oil was studied by Franz diffusion pool method, and compared with olive oil and sweet almond oil, the osmotic rate of oil was inversely proportional to the content of saturated fatty acid.At the same time, the fatty acid composition of tea oil before and after permeation was analyzed by GC. The saturated fatty acid content in the receiving pond decreased by 50% and the unsaturated fatty acid content increased after 8 h infiltration, but the supply pool was opposite to the receiving pool.It shows that the difficult substance in tea oil is saturated fatty acid.The sensory score of the greasy tea oil with different concentrations of saturated fatty acids was further evaluated.The removal of saturated fatty acids from tea oil was determined by lipase-catalyzed esterification and urea inclusion.The optimum conditions for lipase esterification were as follows: ultrasonic power 200 W, ultrasonic pretreatment time 5 min, enzyme dosage 220 U / g, ratio of isopropanol to tea oil 6: 1, reaction temperature 60 鈩，

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