现代男装品牌中性化发展现状及历史探究

发布时间：2018-05-05 19:16

本文选题：男装 + 中性化　；参考：《北京服装学院》2017年硕士论文

【摘要】：在《Fashion and Cultural Studies》中,Susan B.Kaiser谈论到了时尚与性别的关系、时尚对于男性和女性的不同意义,以及时尚以自己的方式参与了主体性别建构这一社会化过程。《Undoing Gender》中,朱迪斯·巴特勒则具体谈到性别的形成不是人们可以自主控制、有意为之的行为,而是在对性别规范的重复过程中制造出来的社会性述行性行为,并将性别的构建喻为一种社会文化角度下的“性别表演”。当下男性对服装的消费需求以及个人化生活习惯与需求,较之传统男性性别角色都发生了极大的颠覆。从时装角度来看尤为明显,男装与女装的界限愈发模糊,进而可发现男性这一社会性别正在逐渐实现种伟大的放弃,所产生的消费对男装市场提出了更大的需求。当下世界范围内的男性时尚对中国男装设计师品牌产生着极大的影响,正处于吸收、同化的阶段中,然而中国男装设计师品牌尚处于一个起步阶段。本文以“中性化”这角度作为切入点,将20世纪50年代的亚文化时尚这一实现男装变革的历史时期作为研究基石,并对在这样一个特殊时期所诞生的西方设计师对男装的革命性颠覆作为研究重点,从而突出在具有独特历史背景下成长的男装品牌与男装设计的时代性和文化性,为中国男装设计师品牌的发展提供一个理论依托。
[Abstract]:In Fashion and Cultural Studies, B.Kaiser talks about the relationship between fashion and gender, the different meanings of fashion to men and women, and the socialized process in which fashion participates in its own way in the construction of the main sex. Judith Butler specifically talks about the formation of gender, not an act that people can control, intentionally for, but social sexual behavior that is created during the repetition of gender norms. And the construction of gender as a social and cultural perspective of the "gender performance." Compared with the traditional male gender roles, the consumption demand and personal living habits of men on clothing have been greatly changed. From the fashion point of view, the line between men's wear and women's wear is becoming more and more blurred, and it can be found that the male gender is gradually realizing a great abandonment, and the resulting consumption has put forward a greater demand for men's wear market. At present, the men's fashion in the world has a great influence on the Chinese men's fashion designer brand, which is in the stage of absorption and assimilation. However, the Chinese men's fashion designer brand is still in its infancy. This article regards the angle of "neutralization" as the starting point, taking the subcultural fashion of the 1950s as the foundation stone of the research, which is the historical period of realizing the men's clothing reform. It also focuses on the revolutionary subversion of men's wear by Western designers born in such a special period, so as to highlight the epochal and cultural character of men's wear brands and men's wear design, which grew up under the unique historical background. For the development of Chinese men's fashion designer brand to provide a theoretical basis.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2

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