五倍子混染的创新研究及在女装设计中的应用
发布时间：2018-10-05 15:16
【摘要】：随着工业化进程的加速,合成染料以其靓丽多变的色泽和持久优良的牢度被予以广泛使用；然而高效便捷之际,相应的负面影响也随之而来,合成染料在工业生产过程中给环境带来的严重污染不容小觑。在全球绿色环保浪潮的呼吁下,古老的染色技法---天然植物染色以其无污染,可降解的最优特性重回人们的视野,于是,植物染色的研究与推广,可谓任重而道远。本文以最常用的染黑植物五倍子为染料,通过文献查阅法、试验法、比较分析法和设计应用法四种方法相结合的方式,研究了其染液的染色原理、染色工艺、提取方法,并通过复染,吊染,套染的引申试验,在一定比例的设定下,融合其他植物染液加以混合染色,突破五倍子传统染色工艺,最后将试验中的新成果运用到服装设计中来。只因黑色属于“无彩色”,与其他有彩色混合后可呈现出不同的低纯度色彩,正是以这一特性作为切入点,开始了五倍子混染的创新应用研究。另黑色作为五行色之一,在历史的长河中积淀了特有的视觉意味和文化韵味,正如清代画家石涛对中国画墨韵的赞美之词,“墨团团黑团团,黑墨团中天地宽。”可见其所处的文化地位,不言而喻。
[Abstract]:With the acceleration of industrialization, synthetic dyes have been widely used with their beautiful and changeable color and durable excellent fastness; however, when they are efficient and convenient, the corresponding negative effects will follow. The serious environmental pollution caused by synthetic dyes in industrial production should not be underestimated. Under the appeal of the global green wave, the ancient dyeing technique-natural plant dyeing, with its pollution-free, degradable and optimal characteristics, comes back to people's view. Therefore, the research and popularization of plant dyeing can be described as a long way to go. In this paper, the dyeing principle, dyeing technology and extraction method of the dyeing solution of the black plant Galla chinensis were studied by the methods of literature review, experiment, comparative analysis and design and application. And through the extension test of repeated dyeing, hanging dyeing and coloring, in a certain proportion of the set, mixed dyeing with other plant dyes to break through the traditional dyeing process of Galla chinensis. Finally, the new results of the experiment were applied to the clothing design. Because black belongs to "no color", it can present different low purity color after mixing with other colors. It is with this characteristic as the breakthrough point, the innovative application research of Chinese gallnut mixed dyeing has been started. Black, as one of the five colors, has accumulated special visual and cultural charm in the long river of history, just as Shi Tao, the painter of Qing Dynasty, praised the rhyme of Chinese ink painting, "the Black Tuan, the Heaven and Earth wide in Black Ink Tuan and Tuan." It can be seen that its cultural status, self-evident.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2
本文编号：2253871
[Abstract]:With the acceleration of industrialization, synthetic dyes have been widely used with their beautiful and changeable color and durable excellent fastness; however, when they are efficient and convenient, the corresponding negative effects will follow. The serious environmental pollution caused by synthetic dyes in industrial production should not be underestimated. Under the appeal of the global green wave, the ancient dyeing technique-natural plant dyeing, with its pollution-free, degradable and optimal characteristics, comes back to people's view. Therefore, the research and popularization of plant dyeing can be described as a long way to go. In this paper, the dyeing principle, dyeing technology and extraction method of the dyeing solution of the black plant Galla chinensis were studied by the methods of literature review, experiment, comparative analysis and design and application. And through the extension test of repeated dyeing, hanging dyeing and coloring, in a certain proportion of the set, mixed dyeing with other plant dyes to break through the traditional dyeing process of Galla chinensis. Finally, the new results of the experiment were applied to the clothing design. Because black belongs to "no color", it can present different low purity color after mixing with other colors. It is with this characteristic as the breakthrough point, the innovative application research of Chinese gallnut mixed dyeing has been started. Black, as one of the five colors, has accumulated special visual and cultural charm in the long river of history, just as Shi Tao, the painter of Qing Dynasty, praised the rhyme of Chinese ink painting, "the Black Tuan, the Heaven and Earth wide in Black Ink Tuan and Tuan." It can be seen that its cultural status, self-evident.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2
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