深衣结构研究
发布时间：2018-10-24 11:55
【摘要】：深衣,是古时候上衣下裳相相连的一种服装,又称之为长衣,是古时候诸侯和大夫等士大夫阶层闲居在家时的的家居服,也可以作为普通老百姓的礼服。深衣是我国最早的服饰之一,对中华服饰数千年的演变有着极其深远的影响,也是中国古代服饰史中至关重要的一环,可以说是开启后世服装的一把钥匙,所以深衣的研究对整个服装史的研究来说也是有着非同寻常的意义。深衣概念的提出最早是出现在《礼记》的《深衣》和《玉藻》两篇中,但囿于文字对图形、图案描述的天生不足和古文字含义随着时间的不断演变,加上实物的匮乏,所以后世的各朝代学者对深衣的见解各不相同,究其根本,各代学者都是以文字研究文字,仅仅是从文字的角度来研究深衣,所绘的图形,也大都是平面的款式图,本文则是提供另一种研究思路为前面的学者做一点补充,从结构出发,用裁缝的角度,提供深衣裁剪图及实物可行性分析。本文依据朝代顺序,从最初提及深衣的《礼记》开始,首先对《礼记.深衣》《礼记.玉藻》两篇作分析,提取其中对于深衣形制的规定,再依次深入研究剖析宋朝朱熹《家礼》中的《深衣制度》一篇、明末清初时黄宗羲所撰写的《深衣考》一篇、清代江永的《深衣考误》一篇及其弟子戴震所著《戴震全集》中的《深衣解》一篇,本文作者细致分析了文中每句话的含义,从而得出其对应的剪裁尺寸,最后结合每篇文章中已经给出的款式图而绘制出深衣裁剪结构图,进行深衣复原,最后把得到的每一件深衣,与《礼记.深衣》《礼记.玉藻》两篇中对深衣形制的规定进行对照研究,得出其符合与不尽相符的结构部分。最后本文作者依据对以上三件深衣共有的特点进行了归纳总结:下裳为十二片布制成;腰围是7.2尺(165.6cm);袖口为1.2尺(27.6cm);方领;都有衽等,并结合《礼记.深衣》《礼记.玉藻》两篇中对深衣形制的规定,给予了深衣剪裁新的定义。此深衣是综合了以上三件深衣的共同点绘制而成,只做了细微改动,但在下摆部分,通过复原深衣,发现前人学者给出的尺寸过大,不能契合《礼记》中下摆平行于地面的规定,结合出土实物,本文作者对下摆尺寸做了略微调整。
[Abstract]:Deep clothing is a kind of clothing which is connected with the clothes under the coat in ancient times. It is also called the long dress. It is the household dress of the scholar and official class such as princes and doctors, and can also be used as the dress of the ordinary people. Deep clothing is one of the earliest garments in China, which has a profound influence on the evolution of Chinese clothing for thousands of years, and is also a crucial link in the history of Chinese ancient clothing. It can be said to be a key to the later generations of clothing. So the research of deep clothing is also of extraordinary significance to the study of the whole clothing history. The concept of deep clothing was first put forward in the Book of Rites and Jade algae. However, due to the natural inadequacies of the description of patterns and the evolution of the meaning of ancient characters over time, there is a lack of real objects. Therefore, the scholars of later dynasties have different views on deep clothing. At its root, scholars of all generations have studied the text only from the perspective of writing. The figures drawn are also mostly graphic drawings of a plane. This article is to provide another research idea for the former scholars to do a little supplement, from the structure, with the perspective of tailors, to provide deep clothing cutting drawing and physical feasibility analysis. According to the order of the dynasty, this paper begins with the first mention of the Rites of Deep clothing. The Book of Rites. Two articles of Jade algae are analyzed, in which the regulations on the form of deep clothing are extracted, and then the "deep clothing system" in Zhu Xi's "Family Rites" in the Song Dynasty and the "Deep clothing examination" in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties are analyzed in turn, and the "examination of Deep clothing" written by Huang Zongxi in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. In the Qing Dynasty Jiang Yong's "deep clothing examination mistake" one and his disciple Dai Zhen's "Dai Zhen complete works" deep clothing solution "one article, the author of this article carefully analyzed the meaning of each sentence in the text, so as to obtain the corresponding size of the tailoring. Finally, combined with the style diagram given in each article, we draw the deep garment cut structure diagram, carry on the deep clothing restoration, and finally take each piece of deep clothing, and < Rites note. The Book of Rites. A comparative study was carried out on the rules of deep garment shape in two parts of Jade algae, and it was found that they were in accord with the different structural parts. Finally, according to the common characteristics of the above three pieces of deep clothing, the author summarizes the characteristics: the lower garment is made of twelve pieces of cloth, the waist circumference is 7.2ft (165.6cm), the cuff is 1.2ft (27.6cm), the square collar has the lapel, and so on. The Book of Rites. "Jade algae." A new definition of deep garment tailoring is given in the two articles. This deep garment is drawn from the common ground of the above three pieces of deep clothing, with only minor changes, but in the lower part of the garment, by restoring the deep garment, it is found that the size given by previous scholars is too large. Not in accordance with the rule that the pendulum is parallel to the ground in the Book of Rites, and combined with the unearthed object, the author of this paper makes a slight adjustment to the size of the pendulum.
【学位授予单位】：武汉纺织大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.1
本文编号：2291332
[Abstract]:Deep clothing is a kind of clothing which is connected with the clothes under the coat in ancient times. It is also called the long dress. It is the household dress of the scholar and official class such as princes and doctors, and can also be used as the dress of the ordinary people. Deep clothing is one of the earliest garments in China, which has a profound influence on the evolution of Chinese clothing for thousands of years, and is also a crucial link in the history of Chinese ancient clothing. It can be said to be a key to the later generations of clothing. So the research of deep clothing is also of extraordinary significance to the study of the whole clothing history. The concept of deep clothing was first put forward in the Book of Rites and Jade algae. However, due to the natural inadequacies of the description of patterns and the evolution of the meaning of ancient characters over time, there is a lack of real objects. Therefore, the scholars of later dynasties have different views on deep clothing. At its root, scholars of all generations have studied the text only from the perspective of writing. The figures drawn are also mostly graphic drawings of a plane. This article is to provide another research idea for the former scholars to do a little supplement, from the structure, with the perspective of tailors, to provide deep clothing cutting drawing and physical feasibility analysis. According to the order of the dynasty, this paper begins with the first mention of the Rites of Deep clothing. The Book of Rites. Two articles of Jade algae are analyzed, in which the regulations on the form of deep clothing are extracted, and then the "deep clothing system" in Zhu Xi's "Family Rites" in the Song Dynasty and the "Deep clothing examination" in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties are analyzed in turn, and the "examination of Deep clothing" written by Huang Zongxi in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. In the Qing Dynasty Jiang Yong's "deep clothing examination mistake" one and his disciple Dai Zhen's "Dai Zhen complete works" deep clothing solution "one article, the author of this article carefully analyzed the meaning of each sentence in the text, so as to obtain the corresponding size of the tailoring. Finally, combined with the style diagram given in each article, we draw the deep garment cut structure diagram, carry on the deep clothing restoration, and finally take each piece of deep clothing, and < Rites note. The Book of Rites. A comparative study was carried out on the rules of deep garment shape in two parts of Jade algae, and it was found that they were in accord with the different structural parts. Finally, according to the common characteristics of the above three pieces of deep clothing, the author summarizes the characteristics: the lower garment is made of twelve pieces of cloth, the waist circumference is 7.2ft (165.6cm), the cuff is 1.2ft (27.6cm), the square collar has the lapel, and so on. The Book of Rites. "Jade algae." A new definition of deep garment tailoring is given in the two articles. This deep garment is drawn from the common ground of the above three pieces of deep clothing, with only minor changes, but in the lower part of the garment, by restoring the deep garment, it is found that the size given by previous scholars is too large. Not in accordance with the rule that the pendulum is parallel to the ground in the Book of Rites, and combined with the unearthed object, the author of this paper makes a slight adjustment to the size of the pendulum.
【学位授予单位】：武汉纺织大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.1
【参考文献】
相关期刊论文 前4条
1 刘乐乐;;从“深衣”到“深衣制”——礼仪观的革变[J];文化遗产;2014年05期
2 王悦;;春秋战国时期深衣探析[J];装饰;2008年03期
3 邱春林;;《礼记》的深衣制度与设计[J];东南文化;2007年04期
4 孙机;;深衣与楚服[J];考古与文物;1982年01期
相关博士学位论文 前1条
1 李岩;周代服饰制度研究[D];吉林大学;2010年
相关硕士学位论文 前4条
1 曹景园;《释名·释衣服》词语综合研究[D];辽宁师范大学;2014年
2 刘萍;Ball-Jointed Doll之文化研究[D];中南民族大学;2012年
3 赵勇;明代汉族服饰探究[D];山东师范大学;2010年
4 刘洋;《说文解字》与上古服饰[D];郑州大学;2005年
，本文编号：2291332
本文链接：https://www.wllwen.com/shoufeilunwen/boshibiyelunwen/2291332.html
