时装设计中灵感的元素提取研究

发布时间：2018-11-09 18:32

【摘要】：时装设计中的灵感影响着整个设计作品的风格,对设计理念的表达与作品呈现有着导向的作用,为设计者们提供了取之不竭的设计素材。纵观古今中外,现有的文献中对于如何提取灵感元素的相关资料甚少,因此本文旨在研究如何提取时装设计中各类灵感的元素,其对于时装设计方法能起到补充与完善的作用,对设计者更好展开设计具有启示作用,亦能明确灵感元素提取研究在服装设计领域的重要性。灵感元素的提取过程是一个复杂的过程,相同的灵感在不同的状态下可提取出的元素不尽相同,不同的灵感又有着千差万别的意义与象征,同时,根据灵感中各项元素提取的数量与形态的不同,受设计者主观的情愫与偏好影响,最后呈现的服装设计产品形式也有所差别。本文从大量的文献中提炼出相关的文献资料,分析知名服装院校学生的毕业作品案例,调研国际时装设计师们的设计过程,深度剖析品牌服装的系列作品与灵感之间的关系,并在此基础上使用逆推法证明其可行性,探究不同种类的灵感元素的提取方式。通过研究总结出,灵感与服装之间具有典型性与关联性的特点,具体提炼过程中不仅需要运用联想思维、换位思维、反向思维、归纳思维等创造性思维,还需要熟练掌握仿生、借鉴、变形、通感等提取方法。灵感的造型元素可从外部轮廓、内部结构及典型结构的点、线、面式提取。色彩元素的提取可参考灵感自身携带色彩和灵感给人的心理反应与情绪感觉。图案及肌理元素需要从图案中物体的造型结构、纹理与表现手法来提炼。在具体实践时,可汲取灵感中的性别特征、自然感、拟人、热点、民族等符号进行更深层次的理念表达,并且灵感的各个元素可与服装的各项元素相互转化。在各类灵感来源中,人体往往提取出具有社会意义的人物头像、皮肤的色彩、五官的造型、不同的面部表情、具有男女性别特征的线条、骨骼与肌肉的肌理质感等元素。动物灵感中常汲取动物身上的纹理、不同动物代表的拟人特点、为了保护自身及吸引异性所产生的色彩、飞行类动物的翅膀造型等元素。植物灵感常对肌理做一些提取,并汲取出其中的自然死亡又生长的返璞归真感。环境元素中可提炼海洋生物的灵动与自由感的曲线、浩瀚星空的图案。建筑灵感提取时则常以建筑的外造型与内结构为主,民族文化注重对民族情怀、艺术品的造型与表现手法等元素的提炼。宗教灵感往往提取出具有神圣感的黑与白和其它一些中性色,通常偏重对信仰宗教人士与宗教神职人员的服装款式的提炼等。非常规灵感则注重感觉的提取,运用联想思维将抽象灵感转化成具象化元素。
[Abstract]:The inspiration in fashion design influences the style of the whole design work, and has a guiding effect on the expression of design idea and the presentation of the work, which provides the designers with inexhaustible design materials. Throughout the ages, there are few relevant information on how to extract inspiration elements in the existing literature, so this paper aims to study how to extract all kinds of inspiration elements in fashion design, which can play a complementary and perfect role in fashion design methods. It can enlighten designers and clarify the importance of inspiration element extraction in the field of fashion design. The process of extracting inspiration elements is a complex process, the same inspiration can be extracted in different states of the elements are different, different inspiration has a myriad of meanings and symbols, at the same time, According to the different quantity and form of the elements extracted from the inspiration, and influenced by the designer's subjective feelings and preferences, the final fashion design product forms are different. This paper abstracts relevant documents from a large number of documents, analyzes the cases of graduates of well-known clothing colleges and universities, investigates the design process of international fashion designers, and deeply analyzes the relationship between the series works of brand clothing and the inspiration. On the basis of this, the feasibility of this method is proved by using the inverse method, and the extraction methods of different kinds of inspiration elements are explored. Through the research, it is concluded that inspiration and clothing have the characteristics of typicality and relevance. In the process of concrete refining, we not only need to use associative thinking, transposition thinking, reverse thinking, inductive thinking and other creative thinking, but also need to master the bionics skillfully. Draw lessons from, deform, synaesthesia and other extraction methods. Inspired styling elements can be extracted from external contours, internal structures, and typical points, lines, and surfaces. The extraction of color elements can refer to the inspiration itself with color and inspiration to people's psychological reaction and emotional feelings. Patterns and texture elements need to be extracted from the shape structure, texture and presentation of objects in the pattern. In practice, the symbols of gender, natural feeling, personification, hot spot, nationality and so on can be used to express ideas at a deeper level, and the elements of inspiration can be transformed into each other with each other in clothing. In all kinds of inspiration sources, the human body often extracts the social significance personage head image, the skin color, the facial feature modelling, the different facial expression, has the male and female gender characteristic line, the skeleton and the muscle texture feeling and so on. Animal inspiration often draws on the texture of animals, the personification characteristics of different animals, in order to protect themselves and attract the opposite sex produced by the color, flying animals wing modeling and other elements. Plant inspiration is often taken from texture, and the natural death and growth of the natural sense of return to nature. The elements of the environment can refine the curves of intelligence and freedom of marine life, the vast starry patterns. Architectural inspiration extraction is usually based on the external and internal structure of architecture, and the national culture focuses on the extraction of elements such as national feelings, art forms and expression techniques. Religious inspirations tend to extract sacred black and white and other neutral colors, often focusing on the style of clothing of religious people and religious clergy. Unconventional inspiration pays attention to the extraction of feeling and uses associative thinking to transform abstract inspiration into concrete elements.
【学位授予单位】：东华大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2

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