茜草染色研究及在女装设计中的创新应用
发布时间：2019-07-05 08:17
【摘要】：随着环境的加剧恶化,植物染料逐渐回归大众的视野。茜草早在秦汉时期就做为最主要的红色植物染料,其在古代文献中的记载,证明了茜草染色在中国植物染色制衣中的重要地位。茜草染色的绿色环保,色泽自然使其具有较高的研究发展价值。本文对茜草及其染色发展演变进行了概述,将茜草色相与中国传统色彩相对应,并分析古人关于茜草所染红色的三种基本色彩搭配方法。茜草为多色相媒染染料,所染色彩的自然和谐是化学染料所不能比拟的。本文进行了相同条件下中国茜和印度茜用不同染色方法、不同媒染剂、不同时间在棉、麻、羊毛、天蚕缎、真丝和丝棉六种面料上所染色相的对比实验。实验可知两种茜草都对天蚕缎亲和度较高,最易上色。印度茜可染更为鲜艳的红色调,两种茜草用不同染色方法,使用不同媒染剂,煮染不同时间得到色相均有所差别。茜草色相的丰富变化和在不同面料上的染色特性,使其可以更具创新的应用在女装设计中,通过毕业设计的实践,对茜草染色有了进一步的了解,发现茜草染色在女装设计中的创新应用有着更为广阔的探索空间。
[Abstract]:With the aggravation and deterioration of the environment, plant dyes gradually return to the public vision. Rubiao was the most important red plant dye as early as Qin and Han dynasties. Its records in ancient literature proved the important position of Xicao dyeing in Chinese plant dyeing clothing. The green and environmental protection of cedar dyeing naturally makes it have high research and development value. In this paper, the development and evolution of Rubiao and its dyeing were summarized, the color of Rubiao was corresponding to the traditional Chinese color, and the three basic color collocation methods of Rubiao dyed red in the ancients were analyzed. Xicao is a polychromatic mordant dye, and the natural harmony of the dyed color is incomparable to the chemical dye. In this paper, the comparative experiments on cotton, hemp, wool, silk satin, silk and silk cotton fabrics by different dyeing methods, different mordants and different time were carried out. The results showed that the two kinds of Rubiao had higher compatibility with silk and were the most easily colored to Bombyx mori. Hindusia can dye more bright red hue. The two kinds of Rubiao can be dyed with different mordants, and the color phase can be obtained by cooking and dyeing at different time. With the rich change of Rubiao color and its dyeing characteristics in different fabrics, it can be applied more innovatively in women's clothing design. Through the practice of graduation design, there is a further understanding of the dyeing of Xiicao, and it is found that the innovative application of Xicao dyeing in women's clothing design has a broader exploration space.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2
本文编号：2510388
[Abstract]:With the aggravation and deterioration of the environment, plant dyes gradually return to the public vision. Rubiao was the most important red plant dye as early as Qin and Han dynasties. Its records in ancient literature proved the important position of Xicao dyeing in Chinese plant dyeing clothing. The green and environmental protection of cedar dyeing naturally makes it have high research and development value. In this paper, the development and evolution of Rubiao and its dyeing were summarized, the color of Rubiao was corresponding to the traditional Chinese color, and the three basic color collocation methods of Rubiao dyed red in the ancients were analyzed. Xicao is a polychromatic mordant dye, and the natural harmony of the dyed color is incomparable to the chemical dye. In this paper, the comparative experiments on cotton, hemp, wool, silk satin, silk and silk cotton fabrics by different dyeing methods, different mordants and different time were carried out. The results showed that the two kinds of Rubiao had higher compatibility with silk and were the most easily colored to Bombyx mori. Hindusia can dye more bright red hue. The two kinds of Rubiao can be dyed with different mordants, and the color phase can be obtained by cooking and dyeing at different time. With the rich change of Rubiao color and its dyeing characteristics in different fabrics, it can be applied more innovatively in women's clothing design. Through the practice of graduation design, there is a further understanding of the dyeing of Xiicao, and it is found that the innovative application of Xicao dyeing in women's clothing design has a broader exploration space.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.2
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