与万簌鸣同时代的海上时尚设计圈

发布时间：2018-04-28 22:36

本文选题：民国 + 时尚设计师　；参考：《苏州大学》2012年博士论文

【摘要】：本文第一部分对民国设计师所处时代进行研究。满清王朝覆灭与中华民国诞生，是一个翻天覆地的巨大变化。知识分子从追逐科举中第，转而争相出国深造，从而造就了一批制造时尚的新型知识分子阶层；《南京条约》签订，开放包括上海在内的五口通商，英、法、美、日租界为上海带来了现代城市发展的元素，现代城市的产生同时带来了现代市民阶层；由于新文化运动和“五四”运动，受教育群体扩大，为时尚的现代文化制造了受众，正是由于有这样的时代背景，才会产生一批时尚设计师。万籁鸣及他周围的设计师大多数出生、成长于这个变化的时代，探究他们的时代背景，有助于追索他们设计风格形成的原因。本章同时探讨了中国现代设计萌芽于土山湾，传教士在这个过程中也做出了重要贡献。本文第二部分对万籁鸣早期在商务印书馆的文化圈进行研究。商务印书馆是中国最早的现代出版机构，在当时拥有中国最先进的印刷及彩色印刷设备，他的影戏部是中国最早的中资电影机构，万籁鸣在商务印书馆影戏部，带领他的兄弟拍出了中国最早的动画广告片。商务广告部在当时中国的设计界也是赫赫有名，中国早期月份牌广告画家，绝大多数都有在商务印书馆的工作经历，也就是说，商务印书馆为中国早期艺术设计领域培训了第一批人才。同时，商务印书馆也是一个文学大师云集的地方，他们对万籁鸣以及其他设计师都会产生深远影响。本文第三部分对《良友》画报的时尚设计圈进行研究。《良友》是中国第一份睁眼看世界、睁眼看中国的时尚生活杂志。它在推动中国时代进步上，，有不可磨灭的贡献。我们用发展的眼光看《良友》，它绝对不仅仅是一份休闲娱乐杂志。万籁鸣在《良友》的成熟期入主美术编辑工作，将他的设计思想带入《良友》，同时也深受围绕在《良友》周围的文化名人的影响。本文第四部分以《大闹天宫》为线索，对影视动漫圈的人和事进行研究。万籁鸣三兄弟创造了中国第一部动画片，直至中国动漫高峰《大闹天宫》的拍摄，这中间的艰苦历程中，一直闪现着万氏兄弟、张氏兄弟、以及中国早期若干设计师的艰苦奋斗的身影。他们为中国影视动漫做出了贡献。
[Abstract]:The first part of this article carries on the research to the era in which the designers of the Republic of China live. The fall of the Manchu Dynasty and the birth of the Republic of China was an earth-shaking change. Intellectuals went from chasing the imperial examinations to competing for further studies abroad, thus creating a new generation of intellectuals who made fashion. The "Nanjing Treaty" was signed to open up the five ports of trade, including Shanghai, to Britain, France and the United States. The Japanese concession has brought the elements of modern urban development to Shanghai, and the emergence of modern cities has also brought along the modern citizen class. As a result of the New Cultural Movement and the May 4th Movement, the educated population has expanded, creating an audience for the fashionable modern culture. It is precisely because of such a background, will produce a number of fashion designers. Wan Laiming and most of the designers around him were born and grew up in this changing era. Exploring the background of their times helps to trace the reasons for the formation of their design style. This chapter also discusses that modern Chinese design originated in Tushanwan, and missionaries made important contributions in this process. The second part of this paper studies Wan Laiming's early cultural circle in the Commercial Press. The Commercial Press was the earliest modern publishing institution in China. At that time, it had the most advanced printing and color printing equipment in China. Its film and play department was the earliest Chinese-funded film organization in China, and Wan Laiming was in the film and play department of the Commercial Press. Led his brother to make the first animated advertisement in China. The Commercial Advertising Department was also famous in the design world in China at that time. Most of the early Chinese monthly advertisement painters had working experience in the Commercial Press, that is to say, The business press trained the first talent in early Chinese art and design. At the same time, the business press is also a place of literary masters, they will have a profound impact on Wan Laiming and other designers. The third part of this paper studies the fashion design circle of "good Friends" pictorial. "good Friends" is the first Chinese magazine to open eyes to see the world and Chinese fashion life. It has made indelible contributions to promoting the progress of the Chinese times. We look at Friends from a developmental perspective. It's definitely not just a magazine for leisure and entertainment. Wan Laiming took over the art editing work in the mature period of "good friend", brought his design thought into "good friend", and was also deeply influenced by the cultural celebrities around "good friend". In the fourth part of this paper, the author studies the people and events of film and TV animation circle. The three brothers of Wan Laiming created the first animated film in China, until the shooting of the Chinese animation peak, "the Heaven Palace," during which the Wanshi brothers and the Zhang brothers flashed through the hard course. And a number of early Chinese designers hard struggle figure. They have made contributions to Chinese film and television animation.
【学位授予单位】：苏州大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J509.2

【参考文献】