从“月份牌”广告看民国女性服饰审美意象的构建
发布时间：2018-12-15 01:23
【摘要】：服饰是人类情感的视觉化,具有无穷的生命力,她代表着一个民族、一个国家的社会历史和人文色彩。中国的服饰审美文化,一方面体现着中华民族炎黄子孙伟大的物质文化的创造,同时也凝聚和渗透着中国“天人合一”的哲学观念。中国真正具有中华民族色彩的服饰成熟于民国时期,这个时期处处充斥着中国传统文化和西方现代文明冲突与融合。 从鸦片战争开始,中国在资本主义军事、经济、文化的侵略下,传统的封建社会解体,与之配套的规章制度、风俗习惯、审美意象等也日渐消失。在众多的变革中,思想解放运动和女权运动进行得如火如荼。受到西方平等、自由思想的影响,女性在思想上、人格上追求解放和自由,首先体现在人们衣着以及生活方式上的巨大改变。女子服饰从简单的衣领变化,发展到带有政治倾向和文化否定意味的廓形改变。整个过程呈现出从传统开始,到西化,后又复归于“改进的传统”的发展态势。这期间体现着民国时期的女性在不断地争取自身的权利、地位、自由、解放,她们开始崇尚健康的生活方式。“月份牌”广告是她们解放的见证者和引导者,它是民国时期影响最广的宣传广告,以当下最为流行的女性形象作为表现对象,引领着整个中国的服饰潮流。“月份牌”广告的发展历程展现着整个民国时期的生活面貌,是一本最为直观的历史图册。对民国时期女性服饰进行研究,“月份牌”广告可以提供最具有历史价值、图像价值的第一手资料。 民国女性服饰将传统文化与现代文明有机地结合起来,创造了影响中国乃至全世界的服饰——旗袍。她是中国传统的民族文化与西方现代文明的结合体,融合了汉、满、洋的文化精髓,她不仅代表着民国时期社会面貌,同样代表着今后中国的社会面貌。她将审美的“形式语言——象”与“情感语言——意”完美地结合起来,达到“错彩镂金”之美、“初发芙蓉”之美和“兼容并蓄”之美,这对中国乃至全世界当代服装设计都有着重要的影响作用,是我们作为中华儿女引以为豪的经典之作。
[Abstract]:Dress is the visual of human emotion, with infinite vitality, it represents a nation, a country's social history and humanistic color. On the one hand, the aesthetic culture of Chinese dress embodies the creation of great material culture of the Chinese people, but also condenses and permeates the Chinese philosophy of "the unity of nature and man". Chinese dress with Chinese color matured in the period of the Republic of China, which was full of conflict and fusion of Chinese traditional culture and western modern civilization. Since the Opium War, under the invasion of capitalist military, economy and culture, the traditional feudal society disintegrated, the rules and regulations, customs and habits, aesthetic image and so on gradually disappeared. In many changes, the ideological liberation movement and the feminist movement are in full swing. Influenced by the thought of equality and freedom in the West, women pursue liberation and freedom in thought and personality, which is reflected in the great changes in people's clothing and way of life. Women's dress changed from simple collar to profile change with political tendency and cultural negation. The whole process presents a trend of development from tradition to westernization, and then to "improved tradition". During this period, women in the Republic of China were constantly striving for their rights, status, freedom and liberation, and they began to advocate a healthy way of life. The "month sign" advertisement is the witness and guide of their liberation. It is the most influential advertisement in the period of the Republic of China. It takes the most popular female image as the object of expression and leads the fashion trend of the whole China. The development of the advertisement shows the life of the whole period of the Republic of China and is the most intuitionistic historical atlas. In the study of women's clothing in the period of the Republic of China, the advertisement can provide firsthand information of historical value and image value. The dress of the Republic of China combines the traditional culture with the modern civilization organically, and creates the dress that affects China and even the whole world-cheongsam. She is the combination of Chinese traditional national culture and western modern civilization, which combines the essence of Han, Manchu and foreign cultures. She not only represents the social outlook of the Republic of China, but also represents the social outlook of China in the future. She perfectly combines the aesthetic "formal language" with "emotional language" to achieve the beauty of "staggered hollowed-out", the beauty of "initial hibiscus" and "all-inclusive" beauty. This has an important impact on contemporary fashion design in China and the world, and is a classic we are proud of as Chinese people.
【学位授予单位】：湖南工业大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2010
【分类号】：J523.5
本文编号：2379685
[Abstract]:Dress is the visual of human emotion, with infinite vitality, it represents a nation, a country's social history and humanistic color. On the one hand, the aesthetic culture of Chinese dress embodies the creation of great material culture of the Chinese people, but also condenses and permeates the Chinese philosophy of "the unity of nature and man". Chinese dress with Chinese color matured in the period of the Republic of China, which was full of conflict and fusion of Chinese traditional culture and western modern civilization. Since the Opium War, under the invasion of capitalist military, economy and culture, the traditional feudal society disintegrated, the rules and regulations, customs and habits, aesthetic image and so on gradually disappeared. In many changes, the ideological liberation movement and the feminist movement are in full swing. Influenced by the thought of equality and freedom in the West, women pursue liberation and freedom in thought and personality, which is reflected in the great changes in people's clothing and way of life. Women's dress changed from simple collar to profile change with political tendency and cultural negation. The whole process presents a trend of development from tradition to westernization, and then to "improved tradition". During this period, women in the Republic of China were constantly striving for their rights, status, freedom and liberation, and they began to advocate a healthy way of life. The "month sign" advertisement is the witness and guide of their liberation. It is the most influential advertisement in the period of the Republic of China. It takes the most popular female image as the object of expression and leads the fashion trend of the whole China. The development of the advertisement shows the life of the whole period of the Republic of China and is the most intuitionistic historical atlas. In the study of women's clothing in the period of the Republic of China, the advertisement can provide firsthand information of historical value and image value. The dress of the Republic of China combines the traditional culture with the modern civilization organically, and creates the dress that affects China and even the whole world-cheongsam. She is the combination of Chinese traditional national culture and western modern civilization, which combines the essence of Han, Manchu and foreign cultures. She not only represents the social outlook of the Republic of China, but also represents the social outlook of China in the future. She perfectly combines the aesthetic "formal language" with "emotional language" to achieve the beauty of "staggered hollowed-out", the beauty of "initial hibiscus" and "all-inclusive" beauty. This has an important impact on contemporary fashion design in China and the world, and is a classic we are proud of as Chinese people.
【学位授予单位】：湖南工业大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2010
【分类号】：J523.5
【引证文献】
相关硕士学位论文 前1条
1 李婧晗;民国时期婚礼旗袍研究[D];北京服装学院;2012年
，本文编号：2379685
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