翡翠首饰的传统表现与创新

发布时间：2018-12-23 12:57

【摘要】：翡翠作为外来玉种,虽然仅有200余年的历史,但由于其产地的唯一性、成矿的复杂性以及产量的不确定性,造成翡翠首饰和工艺品的成品身价倍增,颇受各大品牌及设计师们的钟爱。翡翠无论作为首饰还是观赏类陈设品,都是文化中的产物,也是一种艺术品,所以不同的形制必定具有不同的表现形式。翡翠首饰的表现主要分为四个方面:翡翠首饰设计的表现,翡翠材质的表现,翡翠文化题材的表现以及翡翠首饰包装的表现。从传统上讲,翡翠首饰作为最能代表东方文化的事物之一,它曾带给我们的表现就是古老的祈福文化,优质材质重于一切的理念以及凸显其尊贵材质的设计,形成定式的包装、陈列和广告台词。环顾当下国内翡翠首饰市场,翡翠的表现仍以突显优良的材质为重要目的,无论是温润的色泽还是剔透的质地,即便融入钻石或其它高档宝石的搭配,也不能摆脱“因材施教”的思想贯穿整个翡翠首饰的设计理念。而表现内容的贫乏,表现手法的单一就使得现在的翡翠市场产生了一个又一个瓶颈:第一由于优质原材料越发难以取得,在首饰设计表现上出现瓶颈;第二对于翡翠传统文化的胡乱表现使得那些吉祥寓意的雕件渐渐被人们所摒弃;第三是营销瓶颈,翡翠首饰缺少时尚、广泛有阶段性的消费导向导致翡翠市场数十年如一律,难以追赶国际化趋势的脚步。本人就翡翠首饰市场的发展已有六年的研究,其中两年在云南瑞丽实地考察原料情况及学习雕刻工艺;两年往返于广州和北京,对翡翠市场进行系统的调研;最后两年在天鑫洋金业有限责任公司致力于公司翡翠首饰的市场营销与策划。多年的接触让我更系统的认识到翡翠首饰当前的发展情况,就国内外市场对于翡翠的认识和喜好的分析,得出翡翠首饰需要发展创新的结论:首先是文化题材表现的创新,可以从最初的祈福文化扩展到婚庆文化;其次是材质上的突破,将翡翠首饰细分为高端奢侈品类、艺术类及通俗时尚类,针对每一品类挖掘其材料的特点和辅助材料的应用,从而开创翡翠首饰设计上创新;最后是包装表现上的创新,突出翡翠首饰的个性特征,树立象征性、时尚性、艺术性的特色,引领翡翠首饰的新潮流。
[Abstract]:As an exotic jade species, jadeite has a history of only over 200 years, but due to the uniqueness of its origin, the complexity of mineralization and the uncertainty of its output, the finished product value of jade jewelry and handicrafts has doubled. By the major brands and designers love. Whether as jewelry or ornamental furnishings, jadeite is a product of culture and a kind of art, so different shapes must have different forms of expression. The performance of jadeite jewelry is mainly divided into four aspects: the design of jadeite jewelry, the performance of jadeite material, the expression of the theme of jadeite culture and the performance of the packaging of jadeite jewelry. Traditionally, jadeite jewelry, as one of the most representative things in the oriental culture, has brought us the expression of the ancient blessing culture. The quality of the material is more important than all the ideas, and the design that highlights its noble material forms a fixed package. Display and advertising lines. Looking around the current domestic jadeite jewelry market, the performance of jadeite is still aimed at highlighting excellent materials, whether it is warm, lustrous or translucent texture, even if it is mixed with diamonds or other high-grade gemstones. Can not get rid of the idea of "teaching according to their aptitude" throughout the design concept of jadeite jewelry. The lack of performance content, the single performance of the present jadeite market has produced a bottleneck: first, because the quality of raw materials are more difficult to obtain, there is a bottleneck in jewelry design performance; Second, the jadeite traditional culture of the chaotic performance of those auspicious symbols gradually abandoned by people; The third is the bottleneck of marketing, the lack of fashion jadeite jewelry, extensive and phased consumption led to the jade market for decades such as uniform, difficult to catch up with the pace of the international trend. I have studied the development of jadeite jewelry market for six years, including two years in Ruili, Yunnan Province, the field investigation of raw materials and learning carving technology, two years back and forth to Guangzhou and Beijing, to carry out a systematic investigation of the jadeite market; The last two years in Tianxin Gold Co., Ltd. is committed to the company's jadeite jewelry marketing and planning. After many years of contact, I have a more systematic understanding of the current development of jadeite jewelry. Based on the analysis of the understanding and preferences of the domestic and foreign markets for jadeite jewelry, the conclusion that jade jewelry needs to develop and innovate: first of all, it is the innovation of the expression of cultural subject matter. From the initial blessing culture to the wedding culture; Secondly, it breaks through the material, subdivides the jadeite jewelry into high-end luxury goods, art and popular fashion, and excavates the characteristics of its materials and the application of auxiliary materials for each category, thus creating innovation in the design of jadeite jewelry. Finally, it is the innovation of packaging performance, highlighting the personality characteristics of jadeite jewelry, setting up symbolic, fashionable and artistic characteristics, leading the new trend of jadeite jewelry.
【学位授予单位】：中国地质大学（北京）
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2011
【分类号】：TS933.5

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