苏南水乡妇女服饰的装饰工艺研究

发布时间：2018-03-18 06:51

本文选题：苏南水乡　切入点：妇女服饰　出处：《江南大学》2009年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】： 本文针对苏南水乡妇女服饰的装饰工艺进行研究分析。论文的研究对象为两个部分,一是服饰传世品,包括江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的苏南水乡妇女服饰以及通过田野采风获得的苏南水乡妇女服饰传世品及相关资讯;二是对于这些服饰的装饰工艺,表现为对服饰传世品进行工艺分析以及通过田野采风,对u*直、胜浦等地民间服饰制作者的调查、采访与观摩。本文首先对苏南水乡妇女服饰的形制、面料与色彩进行分析,了解了当地妇女的穿着习惯与服饰的造型、色彩特征,明确了水乡妇女的特色服饰的产生与发展是代表农业文明的“稻作文化”的体现。通过实地考察与田野采风的方式,对水乡妇女服饰的镶拼、滚边、褶裥、纳、绣、带饰、纽襻等装饰工艺进行重点分析,对具体工艺步骤进行记录、分析与研究,记录复原了服饰的制作过程,总结出其程式性与随机性相结合,整料与零料的使用相结合的特色。同时更深一步探讨其文化内涵,从服装设计学、服装结构学及服饰的精神属性等角度进行了综合分析,认为水乡妇女服饰的装饰工艺在体现审美价值的同时也具有实用功能,既是美化服装的基本手段,也是结构造型的基本手段,是“美用一体”的设计理念的体现。苏南水乡妇女服饰作为汉民间服饰的组成部分,其装饰工艺是当地妇女在“稻作文化”的生产方式与生活方式条件下不断摸索与发展中形成的特色工艺,是劳动妇女智慧的体现,也是当地民俗文化性的反映,其精髓值得传承与发展。
[Abstract]:In this paper, the adornment technology of women's clothing in southern Jiangsu is studied and analyzed. The research object of this paper is two parts, one is the clothing handed down from generation to generation. Including the collection of women's clothing in Sunan Water Township at Jiangnan University Folk dress Museum, and the products and related information on women's clothing in Sunan Water Township obtained through field mining; second, the decorative techniques for these costumes. It shows as follows: through the field mining, the investigation, interview and observation of the folk dress makers such as u * Zhi, Shengpu and so on. This paper first analyzes the shape, fabric and color of the women's clothing in Sunan Water Township, and finds out the local women's dress habits and the shape and color characteristics of their clothing. It is clear that the appearance and development of the characteristic dress of the women in the water country is the embodiment of the rice culture which represents the agricultural civilization. Through the way of on-the-spot investigation and field mining, this paper focuses on the decorative techniques such as embellishment, rolling, pleating, knitting, embroidered, ribbon and loop, and records, analyzes and studies the concrete technological steps. The process of dress making is reinstated and the characteristics of the combination of program and randomness and the use of whole material and zero material are summarized. At the same time, it further discusses its cultural connotation, and makes a comprehensive analysis from the angles of clothing design, clothing structure and the spiritual attributes of clothing. It is concluded that the decorative technology of women's clothing in water country not only embodies the aesthetic value, but also has practical functions. It is not only the basic means of beautifying clothing, but also the basic means of structural modeling. As a part of Han folk dress, the decoration craft of women's clothing in southern Jiangsu is the characteristic craft that local women are constantly groping and developing under the conditions of "rice culture" production and life style. It is the embodiment of working women's wisdom and the reflection of local folklore culture, and its essence is worth inheriting and developing.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2009
【分类号】：TS941.6

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