衣以“花腰”为表征——云南花腰傣与花腰彝服饰装饰艺术比较研究

发布时间：2018-04-26 07:02

本文选题：花腰傣 + 花腰彝　；参考：《昆明理工大学》2009年硕士论文

【摘要】：生活在云南滇中地区的花腰傣和花腰彝两个族群,以自身独特的民族文化和服饰艺术吸引着国内外学者的目光,迅速形成了一股研究“花腰文化”的热潮。花腰傣和花腰彝分别作为傣族和彝族的支系,两个族群生活的地域相连,居住方式和稻作农业的生产方式也很相近,在长期的历史发展中,受传统民族文化、族群文化、外来民族文化等因素的影响,创造出了与其他支系在服装造型结构、装饰艺术上风格迥异的族群服饰,并形成了具有族群特色的服饰装饰艺术。本文基于服装设计学、民族学等学科理论,对花腰傣和花腰彝服饰的装饰艺术及其蕴含的民族文化展开研究。通过深入花腰傣聚居区的云南新平彝族傣族自治县和花腰彝聚居区的云南石屏县进行田野考察,广泛收集与花腰傣和花腰彝服饰装饰艺术有关的各种史料和实物,从中获得第一手资料,运用系统分析法、归纳法、比较法等研究方法,结合他们族群的历史文化,对花腰傣和花腰彝服饰装饰艺术进行系统的阐述和研究。论文以花腰傣和花腰彝服饰装饰艺术的艺术特点、民族文化内涵为主要的研究对象,在简述两者族群的历史文化和服饰特征的基础上,从服饰的图案、色彩、装饰工艺、银饰、头饰、腰部装饰等方面进行深入分析,全面解析他们的服饰装饰艺术及蕴含在其中的民族文化信息,努力探求花腰傣和花腰彝服饰对传统民族文化、族群历史文化、宗教信仰、族群心理、审美意识的体现。在研究过程中对两者装饰艺术的异同点进行比较性研究,结合他们的分布区域、历史文化和民族文化交流,进一步分析传统民族文化、族群文化以及民族间的文化交流对他们服饰装饰艺术所产生的影响。论文的研究涉及了服装设计学、美学、民族学、民俗学等交叉学科,用逐层深入的研究思路和方法对花腰傣和花腰彝服饰装饰艺术进行尽可能系统和全面的研究和论述。以此为例,总结了云南少数民族在“大杂居,小聚居”的聚落格局下,在民族文化和民族服饰艺术中恪守传统和相互交融的特征。
[Abstract]:The two ethnic groups, Huayao Dai and Huayao Yi, living in central Yunnan Province, with their own unique national culture and costume art, attracted the attention of scholars at home and abroad, and quickly formed a "flower waist culture" upsurge. Huayao Dai and Huayao Yi are the branches of Dai nationality and Yi nationality, respectively. The two ethnic groups live in the same region, and the way of living and the mode of production of rice farming are also very similar. In the long history of development, they have been subjected to traditional national culture and ethnic culture. Due to the influence of foreign culture and other factors, ethnic costumes with ethnic characteristics have been created, which are different from other branches in costume modeling structure and decorative arts. Based on the theories of costume design and ethnology, this paper studies the decorative art and the national culture of Huayao Dai and Huayao Yi. Through field investigation in Xinping Yi Dai Autonomous County in Huayao Dai concentrated area and Shiping County in Huayao Yi concentrated area, various historical materials and objects related to the decorative art of Huayao Dai and Huayao Yi costumes were collected extensively. From the first hand data, using the system analysis method, induction method, comparative method and other research methods, combined with the history and culture of their ethnic groups, the decorative arts of Huayao Dai and Huayao Yi were systematically expounded and studied. This paper takes the artistic characteristics of the decorative art of Huayao Dai and Huayao Yi as the main object of study, on the basis of briefly describing the historical and cultural characteristics of the two ethnic groups, from the clothing design, color, decorative technology, silver ornaments, The headdress, waist decoration and other aspects are thoroughly analyzed, their costume decoration art and the national cultural information contained therein are comprehensively analyzed, and efforts are made to explore the traditional national culture, ethnic historical culture and religious belief in Huayao Dai and Huayao Yi costumes. The embodiment of ethnic psychology and aesthetic consciousness. In the course of the study, the similarities and differences of the two decorative arts are compared, and their distribution, history, culture and ethnic cultural exchange are combined to further analyze the traditional national culture. The influence of ethnic culture and inter-ethnic cultural exchange on their dress and decoration art. The research of this paper involves the interdiscipline of costume design, aesthetics, ethnology, folklore, and so on. With the method and train of thought, the adornment art of Huayao Dai and Huayao Yi is studied systematically and comprehensively as far as possible. Taking this as an example, this paper summarizes the traditional and intermingled characteristics of the ethnic minorities in Yunnan in the pattern of "large mixed residence, small settlement" and in the national culture and national costume art.
【学位授予单位】：昆明理工大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2009
【分类号】：TS941.12

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