民国湘西与江南地区民间女装装饰形式比较

发布时间：2018-08-22 07:19

【摘要】：本文对民国时期湘西与江南地区民间女装装饰形式进行了比较研究，并分析了两者之间诸多差异的形成原因。本文的研究依据主要为两大类：一是文史与文献记载等文献资料，包括湘西自治州档案馆、保靖县档案馆1911-1949年的文史资料及相关的前人研究成果；二是实物资料，包括湘西自治州博物馆、江南大学民间服饰传习馆及南通庄锦云工作室收藏的民国时期女装实物。通过文献研究法、实物分析法与图文互证法，梳理了民国时期两地民间女装的基本形制及装饰形式，并在此基础上对两者进行对比，总结出它们在装饰形式上的相似与相异之处，并分析其成因。湘西与江南分别位于长江流域的中游与下游，因两地在自然环境和社会历史环境上的诸多差异，导致了民国时期两地民间女装之间具有相似与相异之处：第一，民国时期两地民间女装在总体上呈现出中华传统服饰的基本特点，具有一定相似性；第二，两地的部分民间女装是属于具有各自稻作服饰文化特色的典型，具有一定的相似与相异性；第三，在服饰文明的发展演变及传播中，湘西是属于具有“封闭性”特征的典型，相对良好、稳定地传承了具有当地本土地域及民族特色的服饰，而江南是属于具有“开放性”特征的典型，在近代因深受西方服饰文明的影响而衍生了新的服饰，所以两地民间女装之间具有一定相异性。首先，民间服饰是指广泛被平民在日常生活中穿着使用的服饰，具有很强的传承性和地域性，不同区域间的民间服饰会表现出明显的“时间差”与“地方差”；其次，服装装饰形式往往运用于服装的表层，一般通过视觉就能直接感知到它的存在，而女装又是属于服装装饰形式高度集中的一个类别。所以，本课题选取了具有典型代表性与可比性的湘西与江南地区作为研究地域，选择了两地的民间女装装饰形式作为研究内容，是关于两地民间女装装饰形式之间“时间差”与“地方差”的研究。本文首先通过文献资料与实物资料的研究分析，分别对两地民间女装的基本形制及装饰形式进行了分析概述，从四个方面列举出民国时期湘西与江南地区民间女装在装饰形式上的异同点：第一，在刺绣的色彩、纹样及其精神内涵等方面；第二，在镶、滚及嵌等装饰工艺的运用方式、材料及装饰效果方面；第三，在配饰的品种、材质、外形特征及精神内涵方面；第四，在同时体现了服装的美观性与适用性的装饰形式方面。最后，通过本文之前对民国两地民间女装装饰形式异同点的比较研究，分析概括其形成的原因主要有两方面，其中主要包括了当地的自然环境因素和社会环境因素。自然环境因素包括了地理环境、交通条件、气候风土及农业生产等因素，社会环境则包括了政治因素、经济基础、服装产业的发展状况、宗教信仰及文化教育等因素。本文从研究服装现象为出发点，以总结现象分析成因为方法，以探究地域服饰发展演变规律为目的，以民国时期湘西与江南两地民间女装的装饰形式为研究对象，归纳总结它们在装饰形式上的差异，，并分析其成因。此研究揭示了服饰发展演变规律中地域特征与服饰形态之间的关系，即服饰发展的“地方差”；以及在一定历史阶段内不同区域间服饰文明的传播与服饰发展演变之间的关系，即服饰发展的“时代差”。是通过分析事物外部现象，探索内部发展规律的研究，具有积极的学术价值。其次，该课题的研究也是对中国传统服饰文化的探索与发掘，通过对服饰发展规律的探索与服饰文化的研究，可以对我国传统服饰非物质文化遗产进行有效的保护与传承，具有一定的现实意义。
[Abstract]:This paper makes a comparative study of the decorative forms of folk women's clothes in Xiangxi and Jiangnan during the period of the Republic of China, and analyzes the reasons for the differences between them. Materials and related predecessors'research results; second, material materials, including Xiangxi Autonomous Prefecture Museum, Jiangnan University and Nantong Zhuang Jinyun studio collection of women's wear in the Republic of China period. Through literature research, material analysis method and mutual authentication method, combed the basic form and decoration of women's wear in the Republic of China period. Form, and on this basis to compare the two, summed up their similarities and differences in the form of decoration, and analyze its causes.
Xiangxi and Jiangnan are located in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River Valley respectively. Due to the differences in natural environment and social and historical environment, there were similarities and differences between the two places in the period of the Republic of China. Firstly, the folk women's clothes in the two places presented the basic characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing in general and possessed one. Secondly, some of the folk women's clothes in the two places are typical of their own rice costume culture, with certain similarities and differences; thirdly, in the evolution and dissemination of costume civilization, western Hunan is a typical of "closed" characteristics, relatively good, stable inheritance of the local region. And the national characteristics of clothing, and Jiangnan is a typical "open" characteristics, in modern times because of the impact of Western costume civilization and derived new clothing, so there is a certain degree of difference between the two places. First of all, folk clothing is widely used in the daily life of civilians wearing clothing, has a strong. Inheritance and regionalism, folk clothing between different regions will show obvious "time difference" and "local difference"; secondly, clothing decoration forms are often used in the surface of clothing, generally through the visual perception of its existence, and women's clothing is a highly concentrated form of clothing decoration category. In this paper, the typical representative and comparable regions of Xiangxi and Jiangnan are selected as the research areas, and the folk women's wear decoration forms of the two places are selected as the research contents. It is about the "time difference" and "place difference" between the two places.
Firstly, through the research and analysis of literature and material materials, this paper analyzes and summarizes the basic forms and decorative forms of folk women's clothing in the two places, and lists the similarities and differences in decorative forms of folk women's clothing in Xiangxi and Jiangnan during the period of the Republic of China from four aspects: first, the colors, patterns and their spiritual connotations of embroidery. Secondly, in the use of inlaying, rolling and inlaying decorative techniques, materials and decorative effects; thirdly, in the variety of accessories, materials, shape characteristics and spiritual connotation; fourthly, in the same time reflects the aesthetic and applicability of clothing decorative forms. Finally, through this paper before the two places of the Republic of China folk women's clothing decorative form. A comparative study of the similarities and differences between the two types of factors, analysis and summary of the main reasons for its formation are two aspects, including the local natural environmental factors and social environmental factors. Development, religious belief, culture and education.
In this paper, starting from the study of clothing phenomena, taking the analysis of the causes of the phenomenon as a method to explore the evolution of regional clothing as a goal, taking the decorative forms of folk women's clothing in Xiangxi and Jiangnan during the period of the Republic of China as the research object, summed up their differences in decorative forms, and analyzed the causes. The relationship between regional characteristics and dress patterns in the evolution of the law of development, that is, the "local difference" in dress development, and the relationship between the spread of dress civilization and the evolution of dress development in different regions in a certain historical stage, that is, the "time difference" in dress development, is the study of the internal development law by analyzing the external phenomena of things. Secondly, the research of this subject is also the exploration and exploration of Chinese traditional dress culture. Through the exploration of dress development law and the study of dress culture, we can effectively protect and inherit the intangible cultural heritage of Chinese traditional dress, which has certain practical significance.
【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2013
【分类号】：TS941.12

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