中式传统盘扣及其与传统服装的关系研究
发布时间：2018-09-05 12:21
【摘要】：盘扣可分为一字直扣与盘花扣，最晚自唐代出现，经由宋元明时期的缓慢发展，在清代时成为服装的主流门襟闭合件，民国时期盘花扣借由旗袍进入发展的辉煌期，造型极尽丰富。盘扣在我国的应用范围和应用品类十分广泛，其细节也很丰富，是十分自由的服饰艺术，没有定式。 盘扣基于服装而存在，服装基于人而存在。一件衣服上的盘扣往往与服装本身有着密切的关联，通常情况下，盘扣的色彩与服装的色彩有着协调的关系，盘扣的造型与服装面料上的图案有着契合关系，而盘扣的工艺及用材又与服装的边饰有着密切关联。多种造型的盘扣同时出现在同一件服装中时，会使服装显得更加丰富、充满趣味，同时，，盘扣装饰效果的强弱还要参照服装本身的华丽程度而定。 盘扣依托于服装也是体现穿着者个性的一个载体，不同的人群对盘扣有着不同的需求。同样的扣型，当使用不同的材质，钉缝在不同的服装上，穿着在不同的人身上，其所带来的意蕴便是截然不同的，这便是盘扣、服装与人的微妙关系。
[Abstract]:The disc buckle can be divided into a word straight buckle and a floral buckle. At the latest, it appeared since the Tang Dynasty. Through the slow development of the Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties, it became the mainstream closure of the garment in the Qing Dynasty. In the Republic of China, the flower buckle came into the glorious period from the cheongsam to the development. The shape is extremely rich. The application range and category of disc buckle in our country is very extensive, its detail is also very rich, is very free clothing art, has no fixed form. Disc buckles exist on the basis of clothing, and clothing on people. The plate buckle on a garment is often closely related to the garment itself. In general, the color of the plate buckle is in harmony with the color of the garment, and the shape of the plate buckle is closely related to the pattern on the garment fabric. And the technology of plate buckle and material and the edge decoration of clothing have close relation. When many kinds of plate buckles appear in the same garment at the same time, they will make the clothing more abundant and full of interest. At the same time, the intensity of the decorative effect of the plate buckle will depend on the ornate degree of the garment itself. The disc buckle is also a carrier to reflect the individual character of the wearer, and different people have different demands for the disc buckle. The same buckle type, when used in different materials, pinned to different clothes, worn on different people, has very different implications. This is the subtle relationship between clothes and people.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2015
【分类号】：TS941.3
本文编号：2224256
[Abstract]:The disc buckle can be divided into a word straight buckle and a floral buckle. At the latest, it appeared since the Tang Dynasty. Through the slow development of the Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties, it became the mainstream closure of the garment in the Qing Dynasty. In the Republic of China, the flower buckle came into the glorious period from the cheongsam to the development. The shape is extremely rich. The application range and category of disc buckle in our country is very extensive, its detail is also very rich, is very free clothing art, has no fixed form. Disc buckles exist on the basis of clothing, and clothing on people. The plate buckle on a garment is often closely related to the garment itself. In general, the color of the plate buckle is in harmony with the color of the garment, and the shape of the plate buckle is closely related to the pattern on the garment fabric. And the technology of plate buckle and material and the edge decoration of clothing have close relation. When many kinds of plate buckles appear in the same garment at the same time, they will make the clothing more abundant and full of interest. At the same time, the intensity of the decorative effect of the plate buckle will depend on the ornate degree of the garment itself. The disc buckle is also a carrier to reflect the individual character of the wearer, and different people have different demands for the disc buckle. The same buckle type, when used in different materials, pinned to different clothes, worn on different people, has very different implications. This is the subtle relationship between clothes and people.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2015
【分类号】：TS941.3
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