蒙元织金锦之纳石失与金段子的比较研究
发布时间：2018-08-28 19:20
【摘要】：蒙元时期织金锦异常风靡,但织金锦、纳石失和金段子这几个概念常混为一谈,对这些织物的比较研究也相对缺乏。文章通过文献查阅和实物分析,从词源考证、组织结构、纹样风格三方面对蒙元织金锦之纳石失和金段子进行比较分析,认为纳石失是外来织物,其组织结构以特结型为主,也有暗夹型重组织;而金段子可视作中国传统的织金锦,以单插合的地络类为主。但因文化交融,两者都不同程度地融合了中西方的织造技术和纹样风格,表现在组织结构和织物图案上互相借鉴。尤其是传统金段子以挂经形式增加一组特结经,这可能是中国自己的特结锦产生的主要途径。
[Abstract]:During the period of the Mongolian and Yuan dynasties, the brocade was very popular, but the concepts of the brocade, the disharmony of the Na Shi and the gold segment were often confused, and the comparative study of these fabrics was also relatively lacking. Based on literature review and physical analysis, this paper makes a comparative analysis from three aspects of etymology, organizational structure and pattern style on the dislocations and gold segments of the gold brocade of the Mongolian and Yuan Dynasty. It is considered that the loss of the nanoliths is a foreign fabric, and its structure is dominated by a special knot type. There is also a dark clip type of heavy tissue, and the gold segment can be regarded as the traditional Chinese brocade, mainly with a single intercalation of the ground network. However, because of the blending of culture, both of them have mixed the weaving technology and pattern style of China and the West to some extent, which is reflected in the structure of the fabric and the pattern of fabric. In particular, the traditional Jin Duan adds a group of special meridians in the form of hanging sutras, which may be the main way for China's own special knot brocade to come into being.
【作者单位】： 浙江纺织服装职业技术学院文化研究院;
【分类号】：TS106;K876.9
本文编号：2210365
[Abstract]:During the period of the Mongolian and Yuan dynasties, the brocade was very popular, but the concepts of the brocade, the disharmony of the Na Shi and the gold segment were often confused, and the comparative study of these fabrics was also relatively lacking. Based on literature review and physical analysis, this paper makes a comparative analysis from three aspects of etymology, organizational structure and pattern style on the dislocations and gold segments of the gold brocade of the Mongolian and Yuan Dynasty. It is considered that the loss of the nanoliths is a foreign fabric, and its structure is dominated by a special knot type. There is also a dark clip type of heavy tissue, and the gold segment can be regarded as the traditional Chinese brocade, mainly with a single intercalation of the ground network. However, because of the blending of culture, both of them have mixed the weaving technology and pattern style of China and the West to some extent, which is reflected in the structure of the fabric and the pattern of fabric. In particular, the traditional Jin Duan adds a group of special meridians in the form of hanging sutras, which may be the main way for China's own special knot brocade to come into being.
【作者单位】： 浙江纺织服装职业技术学院文化研究院;
【分类号】：TS106;K876.9
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