中国服装产业发展的品牌经济研究

发布时间：2018-07-06 07:50

本文选题：服装产业 + 服装品牌　；参考：《山东大学》2008年博士论文

【摘要】： 服装产业作为中国国民经济的支柱产业,从我国建国以来,尤其是改革开放后的经济建设中,起到了举足轻重的支柱作用。除了满足占世界人口五分之一的服装产品的消费外,中国的服装产业每年还向世界服装市场提供大量物美价廉的服装,同时为我国换回大量外汇,极大地支持了国民经济中其他部门在建设中的资金需求。但是,随着经济环境的变化,中国服装产业面临着严重的、难以为继的发展问题。依靠可以获得的大量廉价劳动力要素而形成的低成本是中国服装产业参与到国内和国际服装市场中的主要盈利模式,但是这种成本优势随着我国劳动力成本上涨、人民币汇率升值、服装出口退税减少以及中国的服装产品在世界范围受到的反倾销等不友好对待等不利因素的出现而逐渐消失,摆在中国服装产业面前的一个严峻问题是:如何扭转服装产业正在丧失的竞争优势,寻找到新的凭借,从而让产业能够继续发展? 本文对这一问题的回答是,通过建立品类级品牌,从而改变中国服装企业的盈利模式,来促进整个服装产业的发展。针对如何解决这个问题,本文首先梳理了已有的理论对解释和解决问题所作的研究。优势理论一直是国内学者在研究服装产业问题中经常应用的理论依据,而现实中中国的服装产业在很长一段时期内也基本上是按照优势理论中的比较优势理论和竞争优势理论,以中国人口多、劳动力成本低廉为出发点,大力发展劳动密集型服装生产和加工,并且取得了已有的显著成绩。但是,在一种优势逐渐丧失以后,如何继续服装产业的发展,或者说,如何培养一种新的优势,现有的优势理论并没有给出一个合适的理论指导。产业经济学的理论是国内学者在研究服装问题过程中经常应用的另一体系的理论,其中产业集群理论对中国服装产业的发展有着很强的指导作用。事实上,在中国的很多省份里都有着或大或小、主要产品不同的服装产业集群,而且,产业集群的发展对中国服装产业发展的促进作用也是非常明显的,但是,这种促进作用更多的是体现在成本的降低上,对技术上的进步并不显著。而且,产业集群理论在一种优势消失后如何培养新的优势方面没有涉及,因此对提出的问题无法给出答案。产业经济学中价值链、供应链方面的理论,对服装企业如何在价值链上升级以及利润在价值链上的分配情况进行了研究,但是,格里芬的实证研究显示,通过在价值链上升级,从事更高层次的OBM并不能给原来处于加工和进行OEM生产的企业带来更好的发展,本文对这一现象的解释是,企业在对品牌的理解和建立品牌方面存在问题。因此,究竟什么是品牌,怎样才能建立成功的品牌从而使企业的盈利模式真正得到改善这一问题也是这一方面的理论所没有解决的问题。产业经济学中的差异化理论,虽然指出通过产品差异化可以使得企业对产品的价格具有一定的控制力,但是,在如何让消费者了解到企业的产品的差异化信息从而认同和购买方面上,理论并没有给出答案。本文认为产品的差异化信息主要是通过品牌来传递给消费者的,但是在差异化理论中,品牌只是作为了一个外在既定为不变的影响因素,并不是研究的主要对象,所以在这一理论中的品牌无法实现差异化信息传递的任务。而且更多是将品牌与商标混为一谈。在上述理论都没有对问题进行合适的解释和解决的同时,我们可以看到,服装品牌在已经讨论过的理论中成为问题的核心:价值链、供应链理论中,品牌问题是生产企业升级中实现盈利模式真正转变的核心,差异化理论中,能够让消费者对差异化产品认同和选择的关键,同样归结为产品的品牌问题。因此,对服装品牌的研究成为解答问题的关键。在现有的品牌研究中,多数研究是从管理学角度出发的,从经济学角度对品牌进行解释的研究还较少,本文主要运用由孙曰瑶和刘华军前期在品牌经济学方面进行的理论探索成果,结合中国服装产业的具体情况,对产业面临的问题进行理论上的研究和实践上的建议。因此,本文从中国服装产业发展面临的问题入手,以改变企业目前以低成本竞争为主的盈利模式为目的,提出通过建立品类级服装品牌的途径,改变企业的盈利模式,从而达到促进整个产业发展。本文的创新点所在,就是从经济学角度对服装品牌如何通过影响和扩大服装消费者的需求,从而对服装生产者的产品销售和利润率产生影响,实现服装品牌对中国服装企业盈利模式的改变和服装产业发展的促进作用的;同时,本文对如何实现服装品牌的作用进行了分析和研究,即服装品牌的对立定位方式及服装品牌策略研究。本文首先运用经济学的工具对品牌对消费者和生产者产生的效用改变出发,解释了为什么建立品牌可以解决企业的盈利模式问题。从消费者角度来分析,本文首先分析了消费者在选择服装产品时需要考虑的因素。由于购买服装产品所需要考虑的影响因素较多,如材质、款式、尺寸等,因此,就服装本身因素而引致的选择过程就已经是一个复杂的过程。同时,由于服装市场已经步入买方市场阶段,市场上服装产品供给者数量具大,产品供给者和供给的产品的信息,以及不同供给者之间的产品比较而产生的信息,让消费者应不暇接,因此给消费者的选择带来的困难,选择出可以满足消费者需求的服装需要支付高昂的选择成本。服装品牌通过明确本品牌的单一利益点,即服装品牌对消费者承诺并且履行承诺提供某一特定品类的服装,使得消费者在进行选择时选择程序简化、选择成本降低,来跟目标消费者达成利益上的均衡。服装品牌对消费者的最大效用就在于,消费者通过选择具有单一利益点的服装品牌可以降低选择成本。对于服装生产企业来说,建立服装品牌的最大目的是通过品牌的作用能够更好的实现利润最大化。处于不同服装价值链上的生产企业,如果没有自己的服装品牌,仅仅是从事生产加工,在服装出厂以后的价值增值过程中,获得的增值部分比例的是整个价值链最少的,最大部分的利润被流通中各个环节所分配掉。只有通过建立自己的服装品牌,生产企业才有可能获得更大比例的利润分配。但是并不是只要建立起自己的品牌都可以使生产者实现利润增加的目的。一个品牌从商标注册到真正成为品牌需要经历三个阶段,而品牌对生产者利润增长的拉力,也随着品牌的发展程度和发展阶段的不同而不同。处于商标阶段的品牌几乎对生产者的服装产品销售和利润分配情况不产生什么影响,但是一个具有正确的定位和符合品牌信用度六要素的商标,并且始终贯彻正确的品牌策略的品牌,其品牌拉力会随着自身的发展不断增强,而生产者在产品的整个增值过程中获得的利润分配比例,也会随着拉力的增强而逐渐增加。一个成熟品牌则会使生产者的销售情况和利润分配得到很大的改观。那么,什么样的服装品牌才能够具有这种品牌拉力呢? 本文的观点是,通过和已经在位的服装品牌对立的定位方式建立起来的品牌,比采取跟随定位方式建立的品牌,有更大的成功机会。通过对立的方式可以最大化的实现服装品牌对消费者的选择成本的降低,甚至是让消费者对服装品牌的选择成本达到0,从而最便捷有效的吸引到消费者的选择,也即最便捷有效的实现生产者的销售和利润的实现。在对世界范围内的服装产业和服装品牌发展过程的考察过程中,我们可以发现,除了首先在国际服装市场站稳脚跟的定位于高端产品的法国,其他国家企业的服装产品在定位中主动或者被动的遵循对立定位而建立服装品牌的,在品牌策略正确的前提下,就会获得成功,产品采取跟随定位建立起的品牌,即便还没有失败,也只是勉强维持生存。因此,对立定位建立品类级品牌,是在处于买方市场中的服装市场建立品牌的最佳方式。除了定位,正确的品牌策略也是一个品牌取得成功不可忽视的环节,一品类-一品牌策略能够尽量维持品牌有一个较高的品牌品类度,从而使得消费者选择该品牌的选择成本较低甚至为零,是保障服装品牌在长期中能够拥有稳定需求的措施,传播策略、信息策略、企业文化策略、环境互动策略、策略评估和改进策略在大众传播、企业应变和信息反馈、企业文化、企业与所处环境关系维护与改善、企业正确的品牌策略维持等各个方面对服装品牌进行建设和维护,而优势品牌带动策略则是对具有优势品牌的企业以及整个服装产业的发展都会产生有利影响的一个策略。
[Abstract]:As the pillar industry of China's national economy, the garment industry has played an important and pillar role since the founding of our country, especially in the economic construction after the reform and opening up. In addition to meeting the consumption of 1/5 of the world's population, China's clothing industry also provides a large amount of cheap and inexpensive clothing to the world clothing market every year. Garments, which also exchanged large amounts of foreign exchange for our country, greatly supported the demand for funds in other sectors of the national economy.
However, with the change of the economic environment, the Chinese garment industry is facing a serious and unsustainable development problem. The low cost formed by a large number of cheap labor factors which can be obtained is the main profit model of the Chinese garment industry participating in the domestic and international clothing market, but this cost advantage is formed with the labor force of our country. The rise, the appreciation of the RMB exchange rate, the decrease of the tax rebate of the garment export and the unfriendly treatment of China's clothing products in the world are gradually disappearing. A serious problem in front of the Chinese garment industry is how to reverse the competitive advantages that the garment industry is losing and find a new basis. So that the industry can continue to develop?
The answer to this question is to promote the development of the garment industry through establishing brand of category and changing the profit pattern of Chinese garment enterprises.
In view of how to solve this problem, this article first combed the existing theories to explain and solve the problem.
The theory of superiority has always been the theoretical basis for the domestic scholars to study the clothing industry. In reality, in a long period of time, the Chinese clothing industry is basically based on the comparative advantage theory and the competitive advantage theory in the superiority theory, taking the population of China and the low cost of labor as the starting point, and developing the labor energetically. Intensive clothing is produced and processed, and remarkable achievements have been achieved. However, after a gradual loss of advantage, how to continue the development of the clothing industry, or how to cultivate a new advantage, the existing advantage theory does not give a suitable theoretical guidance.
The theory of industrial economics is another system which is often used by domestic scholars in the study of clothing problems. The theory of industrial cluster has a strong guiding role in the development of the Chinese garment industry. In fact, in many provinces in China, there are large or small, different main products in the garment industry cluster, and the production is produced in many provinces. The development of industry cluster is also very obvious in promoting the development of Chinese clothing industry. However, this role is more reflected in the reduction of cost and the progress of technology is not significant. Moreover, the theory of industrial cluster is not involved in how to cultivate new advantages after a kind of advantage disappears, so the problems put forward You can't give the answer.
In industrial economics, the theory of value chain, supply chain, how to upgrade the value chain and the distribution of profit on the value chain is studied. However, Griffin's empirical study shows that, by upgrading the value chain, engaging in a higher level of OBM can not give the original processing and OEM production. The explanation of this phenomenon is that there are problems in the understanding of the brand and the establishment of the brand. Therefore, what is the brand, how to build a successful brand so that the profit model of the enterprise can be really improved is the problem that the theory does not solve.
The difference theory in industrial economics indicates that the difference of product can make the enterprise have a certain control on the price of the product. However, the theory does not give an answer on how to let the consumer understand the differentiation information of the products of the enterprise so as to identify and buy. If the brand is passed on to the consumer, the brand is not the main object of the study in the difference theory, and it is not the main object of the study. Therefore, the brand in this theory can not achieve the task of differential information transmission. And more is to confuse the brand and the trademark.
At the same time, we can see that clothing brand is the core of the problem in the theory that has been discussed: the value chain, the theory of supply chain, the brand problem is the core of the real transformation of the profit model in the upgrading of the production enterprise. The key to the identification and selection of differentiated products is also attributed to the brand problem of products.
Therefore, the research on clothing brand has become the key to solve the problem.
In the current brand research, most of the research is from the perspective of management, and there are few studies on the explanation of brand from the economic point of view. This paper mainly uses the theoretical exploration results of branding economics in the early stage of Sun Yueyao and Liu Huajun, combined with the specific situation of China's clothing industry, and carries out the problems facing the industry. Theoretical research and practical suggestions.
Therefore, this paper, starting with the problems facing the development of Chinese clothing industry, aims at changing the profit model of low cost competition based on the enterprise at present, and puts forward the way to change the profit model of the enterprise by establishing the category grade clothing brand, so as to promote the development of the whole industry.
The innovation point of this paper is how to influence and enlarge the demand of clothing consumers from the economic perspective, thus influence the product sales and profit rate of the garment producers, realize the effect of clothing brand on the change of the profit model of Chinese garment enterprises and the development of clothing industry. How to realize the role of clothing brand is analyzed and studied, namely, the opposition positioning method of clothing brand and the research of clothing brand strategy.
This paper begins with the use of economic tools to change the utility of brand to consumers and producers, and explains why the establishment of a brand can solve the problem of the profit model of the enterprise.
From the perspective of consumers, this paper first analyzes the factors that consumers need to consider when choosing clothing products. Because there are many factors that need to be considered, such as material, style, and size, the selection process caused by the factors of clothing is a complex process. The market has entered the stage of the buyer's market. The quantity of the suppliers of clothing products in the market is large, the information of the suppliers and the products supplied, and the information produced by the products of the different suppliers, so that the consumers should not be able to connect, so the difficulty of the consumer's choice is given, and the clothes that can meet the needs of the consumers are chosen. It needs to pay high selection costs. By defining the single interest point of the brand, the clothing brand provides a particular category of clothing to the consumer and performs the commitment to make the consumer choose the simplified procedure and reduce the cost to achieve the balance of interest with the target consumer. The biggest utility of a brand to consumers is that consumers can reduce the cost of choice by choosing a single clothing brand with a single interest.
For the clothing production enterprises, the biggest purpose of establishing clothing brand is to maximize the profit through the role of the brand. The production enterprises in different clothing value chains are only engaged in production and processing in the process of value added after the clothing factory. The proportion of the whole value chain is the least, the largest part of the profit is allocated to each link in the circulation. Only by establishing its own clothing brand, it is possible for the production enterprise to obtain a larger proportion of profit distribution. But not only the establishment of its own brand can make the producer achieve the purpose of increasing profits. The brand registration from the trademark to the real brand needs three stages, and the brand to the producer profit growth is different with the brand development degree and the development stage. The correct positioning and brand credit degree six elements of the brand, and always carry out the correct brand strategy brand, its brand pull will increase with its own development, and the producer's profit distribution ratio in the whole value-added process will increase with the increase of pull force. A mature brand will be It has greatly improved the sales and profit distribution of producers.
So, what kind of clothing brand can have this brand pull?
The point of this article is that the brand established by the positioning mode which is opposed to the existing clothing brand has a greater success than the brand established by the following orientation. By the opposite way, it can maximize the reduction of the choice of the clothing brand to the consumer and even the consumer to the clothing brand. The cost of selection is 0, which is the most convenient and effective way to attract consumers' choice. That is to say, it is the most convenient and effective way to achieve the sale and profit of producers.
In the process of the development of garment industry and clothing brand in the world, we can find that, in addition to the first position in the international clothing market, which is located in the high-end products of France, the clothing products of other countries are actively or passively establishing clothing brands in the position of opposition, in the brand. Under the premise of correct strategy, the product will succeed, and the product will follow the established brand, even if it has not failed, it will just survive.
Therefore, opposing positioning and establishing category brand is the best way to build brand in the buyer's market.
In addition to positioning, the correct brand strategy is also a link that can not be ignored by a brand success. A category - a brand strategy can maintain a brand with a higher brand category as far as possible, thus making the consumer choose the brand with a lower cost or even zero. It is a stable demand for the brand in the long term. Measures, communication strategy, information strategy, enterprise culture strategy, environmental interaction strategy, strategy evaluation and improvement strategy in mass communication, enterprise strain and information feedback, enterprise culture, enterprise and environment relationship maintenance and improvement, enterprise correct brand strategy maintenance and other aspects of clothing brand construction and maintenance, and the dominant brand The driving strategy is a strategy that will have an advantageous impact on the development of the enterprises with dominant brands and the entire garment industry.
【学位授予单位】：山东大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2008
【分类号】：F273.2;F426.86

【引证文献】