太原多福寺明代壁画贵妇服装样式研究

发布时间：2018-03-11 08:25

本文选题：太原多福寺　切入点：壁画　出处：《山西大学》2012年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：2007年,太原崛山围山多福寺被列入全国重点文物保护单位,在其大雄宝殿内,现保存有明代沥粉贴金彩绘佛传故事壁画84幅。壁画中所描绘的妇女服饰,体现了明代贵妇服饰的多样性面貌。有关多福寺明代贵妇服装样式的研究文献资料甚少,因此,本文拟从实地调查入手,将所获得的相关图片和以往的文献、图像资料作较广泛的搜集与整理,对该壁画明代贵妇所着之大袖衫、团衫、霞帔、蔽膝、长裙等进行细致分析,以弥补在此问题上的研究空缺。本文从实地的角度考察出发,运用图像考古学、美术学和艺术学的研究方法,对壁画中贵妇服装样式进行研究,文章内容除引言外,又分三个部分：引言：主要对该论文相关研究成果做梳理论述。第一部分：对多福寺明代壁画中贵妇服装样式进行考察,按壁画内容顺序统计贵妇形象,根据壁画不同场景中的贵妇服装样式,对其进行详尽描述。第二部分：分析了其中20幅有贵妇形象的她们的服装样式,分别从贵妇上衣、下裳两部分来解读,通过分类描述,归纳总结出该壁画贵妇服装样式的特点,进而把其服装样式分为大袖衫、团衫、霞帔、蔽膝、长裙等,归纳出不同形制的服装的穿着、搭配的方式,进而采用绘画线描图以复原其穿着的实际效果。笔者认为多福寺大雄宝殿壁画所绘贵妇服装样式,更多地体现出明代初期贵妇服装样式的特点：其样式依然受到元代仕女服饰的影响,女性的领口皆左埖;而袖口宽博的特点,则承袭了唐代贵妇的服装样式;服装的上下衣裙,仍保持着前代上短下长的比例的特点,裙曳及地面,裙褶明显有百褶裙的样式了；而其变化则似乎更多地体现在大袖衫袖口装饰趋于繁缛此一特点之上。蔽膝与宋代女式将帅所穿着的甲裙样式很类似,下摆都是舌形弧状,边缘都有褶裾；另外,明代服饰艳丽的色彩搭配,也是此处壁画贵妇服饰所表现出的另一特点。第三部分：追溯历代贵妇服装样式的演变,以求寻取多福寺明代贵妇服装样式的时代特点。
[Abstract]:In 2007, Taiyuan Mountain Waishanduofu Temple was listed as the national key cultural relic protection unit. In its grand palace, there are now 84 frescoes painted with gold painted Buddha stories in the Ming Dynasty. The women's costumes depicted in the murals are now preserved. It reflects the diversity of the dress of the ladies of the Ming Dynasty. There is very little literature on the style of the dress of the ladies of the Ming Dynasty. Therefore, this paper intends to start with the field investigation, and will obtain the related pictures and the previous documents. In order to make up for the lack of research on this issue, this paper makes a detailed analysis of the large sleeved shirts, troupe shirts, draped knees, long skirts and so on, which are written by the ladies of the Ming Dynasty in order to make up for the gaps in the study of the mural paintings. This paper, from the point of view of the field, uses the research methods of image archaeology, fine arts and art to study the dress styles of the ladies in the frescoes. Besides the introduction, the article is divided into three parts:. Introduction: this paper is mainly about the related research results. The first part is to investigate the styles of the ladies' clothes in the murals of the Dafu Temple in Ming Dynasty. The images of the ladies are counted according to the order of the murals, and described in detail according to the styles of the ladies' clothes in different scenes of the murals. In the second part, the author analyzes the dress styles of 20 of them with the images of ladies and women, which are interpreted from the two parts of the ladies' jackets and the lower clothes, and the characteristics of the mural ladies' clothing styles are summarized through the classification and description. Then its clothing style is divided into big sleeved shirt, group shirt, frame, knee-covering, long skirt, and so on, and sums up the wearing and collocation of clothes of different shapes. In order to restore the actual effect of their wearing, the author thinks that the style of dress of noble women painted by the mural of Dafu Temple's Great Xiong Bao Temple, It reflects the characteristics of the dress style of the ladies in the early Ming Dynasty: its style is still influenced by the dress of the ladies of the Yuan Dynasty, and the neckline of the women is left, while the width of the cuffs inherits the dress style of the ladies of the Tang Dynasty, and the upper and lower dresses of the clothing, Still maintain the former generation of short and low length of the proportion of characteristics, skirt drag and ground, skirt fold obviously has the style of 100 fold skirt; And the change seems to be reflected more in the overelaborate cuff decoration of a long-sleeved shirt. The armour dress worn by women generals in the Song Dynasty is very similar in style, with the pendulum in the shape of a tongue arc and the brim with a fringed edge; in addition, The colourful collocation of the dress of Ming Dynasty is another characteristic of the mural dress. Part three: tracing back to the evolution of the dress styles of the ladies in the past dynasties, in order to find the characteristics of the times of the dress styles of the Duofusi and the Ming dynasties.
【学位授予单位】：山西大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

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