北魏鲜卑族服饰研究

发布时间：2018-04-08 18:30

本文选题：北魏　切入点：鲜卑族　出处：《东华大学》2012年硕士论文

【摘要】：中国隋唐以后的常服,是受到北魏鲜卑族服饰影响而形成的。因此,北魏鲜卑族服饰在中国古代服饰发展史中的地位十分重要。孝文帝改革后,北魏鲜卑服饰明显受到了中原汉服的影响,同时,汉服也反过来受鲜卑族服饰的影响。两者在相互影响融合中趋同,当时流行于南北朝的埓褶便是最有力的证明。而这种带有明显汉服因素的埓褶出现流行正是在北魏鲜卑族服饰中。建国后,北朝服饰的研究工作一度比较滞后和薄弱,与国内不断高涨的古代服饰研究热潮严重脱节。可喜的是,随着近20年来北朝考古取得了重大进展,为北朝服饰研究提供了丰富的考古资料,同时越来越多的学者开始关注北朝服饰史。在孝文帝改革的影响下,鲜卑服饰发生了巨大的变化,北朝以后的服饰都是以北魏变革后的服饰为基础的。因此,北魏服饰可以说对整个北朝服饰的发展意义非凡。目前,对北魏服饰进行过研究的主要有黄良莹、宋丙玲等人,他们对北魏服饰的研究着眼于整个北朝时期,研究方法主要是典型性研究,对于鲜卑族本民族着装独特的发展脉络缺乏关注,忽略了北魏当时着装的民族性。为了弥补前人研究的不足以及为后人进一步研究北朝服饰及其发展脉络奠定基础,本文针对北魏时期鲜卑族服饰的着装进行研究。由于鲜卑族没有自己的文字,古代文献中对鲜卑族服饰的记载十分有限,北魏鲜卑族服饰的研究材料主要来源于墓葬资料和佛教造像。因此,笔者首先对鲜卑族北魏考古资料进行大规模的收集。其次,在掌握大量北魏考古资料的基础上,对材料进行研究,筛选出能反映北魏鲜卑族着装的有效资料。第三对考古资料中出现的人物进行分类,从北魏不同身份的人物穿着入手研究,宏观地研究北魏鲜卑族服饰的款式与种类。最后,通过统计学的方法计算出北魏不同时期不同服饰的流行度,对北魏前后两个时期不同的流行服饰研究北魏前后鲜卑族的着装变化,得出鲜卑族服饰发展脉络和汉服对鲜卑族服饰的影响。
[Abstract]:After the Sui and Tang dynasties, the Chinese dress was influenced by the Northern Wei Xianbei nationality.Therefore, the Northern Wei Xianbei costume in the history of Chinese ancient dress development is very important.After the reform of Emperor Xiaowen, Xianbei dress of the Northern Wei Dynasty was obviously influenced by the Han clothing of the Central Plains, and at the same time, the clothes of the Han Dynasty were also influenced by the clothes of the Xianbei nationality.They converge in the influence of each other, and the fold popular in the Southern and Northern dynasties is the most powerful proof.This kind of fold with obvious Han clothing factor is popular in the Northern Wei Dynasty Xianbei nationality clothing.After the founding of the people's Republic of China, the research on the clothing of the Northern Dynasty was lagged and weak, which was out of touch with the upsurge of the ancient dress research in China.Fortunately, along with the great progress of the Northern Dynasty archaeology in the past 20 years, it provides abundant archaeological materials for the study of the Northern dynasties dress, and at the same time, more and more scholars begin to pay attention to the Northern Dynasty dress history.Under the influence of the reform of Emperor Xiaowen, Xianbei dress has undergone great changes, and the clothes after the Northern Dynasty are all based on the clothes after the Northern Wei Dynasty reform.Therefore, the Northern Wei Dynasty clothing can be said to the development of the entire North Dynasty clothing significance.At present, there are mainly Huang Liangying, Song Bingling and others who have studied the dress of the Northern Wei Dynasty. Their research on the dress of the Northern Wei Dynasty is focused on the whole period of the Northern Dynasty, and the research method is mainly typical.Lack of attention to the unique development of Xianbei nationality's dress, ignored the nationality of the Northern Wei Dynasty.In order to make up for the deficiency of previous studies and to lay a foundation for future generations to further study the clothing and its development of the Northern Wei Dynasty, this paper studies the dress of Xianbei nationality in the Northern Wei Dynasty.Because Xianbei people do not have their own characters, the ancient literature on the clothes of Xianbei nationality is very limited. The research materials of Xianbei nationality clothing in the Northern Wei Dynasty mainly come from the materials of tombs and Buddhist statues.Therefore, the author first of all the Northern Wei Dynasty Xianbei archaeological data for a large-scale collection.Secondly, on the basis of mastering a large number of archaeological data of the Northern Wei Dynasty, this paper studies the materials and selects the effective materials which can reflect the dress of the Xianbei nationality in the Northern Wei Dynasty.The third part classifies the figures in the archaeological materials and studies the styles and types of the clothes of the Xianbei nationality in the Northern Wei Dynasty from the perspective of the dress of the characters of different identities in the Northern Wei Dynasty.Finally, the popularity of different clothes in different periods of Northern Wei Dynasty was calculated by statistical method, and the change of dress of Xianbei nationality before and after the Northern Wei Dynasty was studied.The development of Xianbei costume and the influence of Han suit on Xianbei dress are obtained.
【学位授予单位】：东华大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

【参考文献】