北朝在华粟特人服饰研究

发布时间：2018-04-28 00:24

本文选题：北朝 + 粟特　；参考：《东华大学》2012年硕士论文

【摘要】：对粟特人的研究无论在历史、宗教还是在华聚落、汉化方面,前辈学者都由丰富的成果问世。然而,对于其服饰的研究颇显欠缺,尤其是在华粟特人的服饰特征的研究较罕,仍没有专题论著发表。而近几年考古资料的发掘,为这项研究提供了可靠依据。本文以北朝在华粟特人的服饰为研究内容,期望就资料允许的情况下,辨析出粟特人的服饰特征及民族交流对其服饰的影响。本文的主要研究对象为北朝在华粟特人的墓葬图像,分为三个部分进行论述。第一部分包括前两章,第一章提出了研究的可行性以及本课题的研究意义和创新性。第二章首先回顾了北朝的社会状况以及历史上粟特地区的民族关系,便于下文分析民族交流在服饰特征上的呈现。其次,在本章还重点介绍了中国境内发掘的北朝粟特人的墓葬图像,以及具有浓厚中亚特征(疑似粟特人)的考古图像资料,以便下文直接进行服装服饰的类型总结和特征辨析。第二部分包括三、四章,首先对北朝在华粟特人的各墓葬图像中的服装服饰依据典型特征进行统计分类,然后综合各墓葬进行服饰特征的整合,描述出北朝在华粟特人的墓葬图像中显现的服饰特征。进而,参照境内外和中亚地区的美术考古资料,分发型、首服、披风、帔帛、袍、腰带、裙、裤、足衣九个方面一一辨析,在考古发掘图像资料中的重合度,并结合文献记载和前辈研究成果,考察其名目所指、明确典型特征、及其所体现的民族属性,最终判定出在华粟特人的服饰特征及其所表现的民族服饰文化的传承性和民族交流引起的演变性。第三部分包括第五章,在前文对粟特人服饰特征和民族交流影响进行判定的基础上,深入考察了粟特特征的紧身圆领、翻领袍在北朝时期的广泛影响,并讨论了在华粟特人服饰的演变痕迹。最终得出了在华粟特人服饰的典型特征,并以具体图像比较了其民族特色着装和在华变化后的着装,提出了粟特典型的紧身窄袖袍在北朝的流行和演变,阐述了对后世中国服饰文化的影响。
[Abstract]:In history, religion, settlements in China and Sinicization, the previous generation of scholars came out of rich achievements. However, the research on its clothing is rather deficient, especially in Huasutai people's clothing characteristics, there are still no monographs published. The excavation of archaeological data in recent years provides a reliable basis for this study. This article takes the clothing of the Northern Dynasty people in Huasutai as the research content, and expects to distinguish and analyze the clothing characteristics and the influence of the national exchange on the clothing of the Su-te people under the condition of the data permitting. The main research object of this paper is the image of the tomb of the Northern Dynasty in Huasute, which is divided into three parts. The first part includes the first two chapters, the first chapter puts forward the feasibility of the research and the significance and innovation of this subject. The second chapter first reviews the social situation of the Northern Dynasty and the ethnic relations in the Sogte region in history, which is convenient to analyze the appearance of ethnic communication in the clothing characteristics. Secondly, this chapter also focuses on the tomb images of the Sogites excavated in China, and the archaeological images with strong Central Asian characteristics (suspected Sogites). In order to carry on the clothing clothing type summary and the characteristic discrimination directly below. The second part includes three and four chapters. Firstly, the clothing and clothing in each tombs of the Northern Dynasty are classified according to the typical characteristics, and then the clothing features of the tombs are integrated. This paper describes the dress features of the Northern Dynasty in the tombs of the Huasu people. Furthermore, referring to the archeological materials of art both inside and outside the country and in Central Asia, they are divided into hair styles, first clothes, cloak, frame silk, robes, belts, skirts, trousers, and sufficient clothing, one by one, and the degree of coincidence in the archaeological excavations image data is analyzed one by one. Combining with the literature records and the research achievements of the predecessors, the author investigates the names of their names, clarifies the typical characteristics, and the national attributes that they embody. Finally, it determines the clothing characteristics and the inheritance of national costume culture and the evolution caused by ethnic communication. The third part includes the fifth chapter. On the basis of judging the characteristics of the dress and the influence of the national exchange, the author makes a thorough study of the extensive influence of the close-fitting collar and lapel robes on the characteristics of the Sote in the Northern Dynasty. It also discusses the evolution of the clothing of the Suite people in China. Finally, the typical characteristics of the clothes of the Su-te people in China are obtained, and the national characteristics of the clothes are compared with the changes in China, and the popularity and evolution of the close-fitting and narrow-sleeved robes in the Northern Dynasty are put forward. This paper expounds the influence on the later Chinese costume culture.
【学位授予单位】：东华大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

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