保安族服饰研究

发布时间：2018-08-14 14:07

【摘要】：本文从服装专业角度，以保安族的主要聚居地甘肃省临夏回族自治州的积石山保安族东乡族撒拉族自治县为着眼点，通过实地考察、文献研究等各种研究方法，对保安族不同时期的服饰及其服饰文化进行梳理与解读，为保安族服饰文化研究提供了有价值的参考素材，同时也提出了自己的一些观点。保安族服饰是保安族文化和历史的载体，在自然环境、社会结构、经济生活、宗教信仰和风俗习惯等因素作用下，保安族服饰形成了独具特色的社会文化内涵，它既承载着保安族的文化传统，又体现了保安族的精神信仰，，表现出保安族服饰形态、服饰功能及其服饰文化内涵的有机统一。文章试图通过对保安族族源和民族成分的探讨，刍议保安族的服饰文化及其内涵。反之，对民族服饰流变的探究，也是对其族群归属和成分的确定提供佐证和理论依据。全文共分为六部分，绪论主要阐述保安族服饰研究的背景、目的、意义以及现状；继而首章概述保安族的现状、民族特征，以及对其族源的探讨；二、三章为重点章节，以对保安族聚集的积石山县实地调查获得的第一手材料为依据，对保安族的历史与现状、保安族服饰的外在特征与社会文化内涵进行解读和比较，同时对保安族的生态环境、经济生活、价值取向、宗教信仰、风俗传承等在服饰款式、色彩、纹样以及着装方式上的表现进行深入的分析和详尽的阐述，并将不同时期的保安族服饰进行比较，以及同时期的保安族服饰与周边的不同少数民族服饰进行比较；第四章探讨保安族服饰丰富的文化内涵，剖析保安族服饰与保安族的民族归属、民族精神以及民族心理的关系；最后为结语。
[Abstract]:From the point of view of clothing specialty, this paper focuses on the Dongxiang ethnic Salar Autonomous County of Jishi Mountain Security nationality in Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu Province, through field investigation, literature research and other research methods. This paper combs and interprets the clothing and dress culture of the security nationality in different periods, which provides valuable reference materials for the study of the dress culture of the security nationality, and also puts forward some viewpoints. The clothing of the security nationality is the carrier of the culture and history of the security nationality. Under the influence of the natural environment, the social structure, the economic life, the religious belief and the custom and so on, the dress of the security nationality has formed the unique social and cultural connotation. It not only bears the cultural tradition of the security group, but also embodies the spiritual belief of the security group. It shows the organic unity of the dress form, the dress function and the cultural connotation of the dress. This paper tries to discuss the costume culture and its connotation of the Gan nationality through the discussion of the origin and ethnic composition of the Gan nationality. On the other hand, the research on the evolution of ethnic dress also provides evidence and theoretical basis for the determination of ethnic groups and components. The full text is divided into six parts, the introduction mainly describes the background, purpose, significance and current situation of the study of the clothing of the Gan nationality; then the first chapter outlines the present situation, national characteristics, and the discussion of the origin of the ethnic group; the second, third chapters are the key chapters. Based on the firsthand materials obtained from the field investigation of Jishi Mountain County where the security people gathered, this paper interprets and compares the history and present situation of the security nationality, the external characteristics of the dress and the social and cultural connotation of the security nationality, and at the same time, the ecological environment of the security nationality. The performance of economic life, value orientation, religious belief, customs inheritance and so on in dress style, color, pattern and dress style are deeply analyzed and elaborated in detail, and the clothing of the security nationality in different periods is compared. The fourth chapter discusses the rich cultural connotation of the clothing of the security nationality, analyzes the relationship between the clothing of the security nationality and the national ownership, the national spirit and the national psychology, and analyzes the relationship between the clothing of the security nationality and the national belonging, the national spirit and the national psychology of the security nationality in the same period. The last is the conclusion.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5

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