唐、宋两代女性裙装研究
发布时间：2019-03-31 10:23
【摘要】：唐代女性裙装款式繁多,色彩艳丽,整体风格上体现出雍容华贵,富丽大度；宋代女性裙装则以淡雅、简洁、便利的特点显著。 唐代经济发达,与少数民族在贸易及文化上交往频繁,上至君主下至臣民思想相对开放,织造业发达,这些都为女性裙装的发展提供了很好的条件与基础。唐代女性裙装从初唐到中晚唐,自身也发生了一些改革和变化。唐代出现几款代表性的女裙：条纹裙与晕裥裙,石榴裙,百鸟毛裙,金缕裙。 宋代织造业也比较发达,但由于连年和少数民族发生战乱,边疆不稳,国库空虚,加上人们的思想当时受程朱理学的影响较大,趋于严谨、保守,服饰风格较之前朝发生重大转变,体现在女性裙装上则表现为清雅娟秀,简洁便利。这时候的几款代表女裙有：百褶裙与旋裙,合欢掩裙,销金衣裙。 从唐代到宋代,女裙的基本特征和整体风格都发生了转变,其中包括女裙纹样质地的变化、女裙色彩的变化、女裙长度与幅度的变化、女裙穿着搭配方式的变化。 女性裙装之所以在唐代和宋代呈现出两种不同的风格,其原因是多方面的,不仅包括政治、经济、文化的影响,还有服装自身发展规律的作用。将唐代和宋代女性裙装做一个对比研究,探讨其发展演变规律,分析其对后世裙装的影响,对于服装学或是历史学都有一定的研究意义。
[Abstract]:There are many styles of female skirt in Tang Dynasty, the color is gorgeous, the whole style is elegant and rich, while the female dress in Song Dynasty is elegant, concise and convenient. The economic development of Tang Dynasty, the frequent exchange of trade and culture with ethnic minorities, the relatively open thinking from the monarch to the subjects, and the developed weaving industry all provided a good condition and foundation for the development of women's skirt. From the early Tang Dynasty to the mid-late Tang Dynasty, some reforms and changes have taken place in the female skirt dress of the Tang Dynasty. Tang Dynasty appeared several representative women's skirt: striped skirt and dizzy skirt, pomegranate skirt, hundred bird hair skirt, golden witch skirt. The weaving industry in the Song Dynasty was also relatively developed, but as a result of the successive years of war with ethnic minorities, the border was unstable, the national treasury was empty, and people's thoughts were greatly influenced by Cheng Zhu's Confucianism at that time, and tended to be rigorous and conservative. Dress style than before to a major change, reflected in the women's skirt is elegant and elegant, concise and convenient. At this time, there are several women's skirts: pleated skirt and rotary skirt, masquerade skirt, gold dress. From Tang Dynasty to Song Dynasty, the basic characteristics and overall style of women's skirt have been changed, including the change of pattern texture, color, length and amplitude of women's skirt, and the change of matching style of women's skirt. There are two different styles of female dress in Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty. The reasons are various, including not only the influence of politics, economy and culture, but also the function of the development law of clothing itself. This paper makes a comparative study of female dress in Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty, probes into its development and evolution rule, and analyzes its influence on later generations of skirt dress. It is of certain significance for the study of clothing or history.
【学位授予单位】：郑州大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5
本文编号：2450817
[Abstract]:There are many styles of female skirt in Tang Dynasty, the color is gorgeous, the whole style is elegant and rich, while the female dress in Song Dynasty is elegant, concise and convenient. The economic development of Tang Dynasty, the frequent exchange of trade and culture with ethnic minorities, the relatively open thinking from the monarch to the subjects, and the developed weaving industry all provided a good condition and foundation for the development of women's skirt. From the early Tang Dynasty to the mid-late Tang Dynasty, some reforms and changes have taken place in the female skirt dress of the Tang Dynasty. Tang Dynasty appeared several representative women's skirt: striped skirt and dizzy skirt, pomegranate skirt, hundred bird hair skirt, golden witch skirt. The weaving industry in the Song Dynasty was also relatively developed, but as a result of the successive years of war with ethnic minorities, the border was unstable, the national treasury was empty, and people's thoughts were greatly influenced by Cheng Zhu's Confucianism at that time, and tended to be rigorous and conservative. Dress style than before to a major change, reflected in the women's skirt is elegant and elegant, concise and convenient. At this time, there are several women's skirts: pleated skirt and rotary skirt, masquerade skirt, gold dress. From Tang Dynasty to Song Dynasty, the basic characteristics and overall style of women's skirt have been changed, including the change of pattern texture, color, length and amplitude of women's skirt, and the change of matching style of women's skirt. There are two different styles of female dress in Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty. The reasons are various, including not only the influence of politics, economy and culture, but also the function of the development law of clothing itself. This paper makes a comparative study of female dress in Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty, probes into its development and evolution rule, and analyzes its influence on later generations of skirt dress. It is of certain significance for the study of clothing or history.
【学位授予单位】：郑州大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2012
【分类号】：J523.5
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