迭部藏族女性服饰研究

发布时间：2018-01-06 16:16

本文关键词：迭部藏族女性服饰研究　出处：《中央民族大学》2015年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：服饰是人类所独有的劳动成果,它是物质文明和精神文明的结晶和含义,也是社会政治、经济、文化、意识形态等各个方面的综合作用的结果；它是我们了解这个社会和文化的一枚钥匙,我们通过服饰能了解更多的文化信息。生活在甘肃省甘南藏族自治州东南部一带的迭部藏族,居住在白龙江上游秦岭山脉延伸之岷叠山峦地带,因交通不便,长期处于较封闭和传统的社会中,形成了独具特色的服饰民俗。随着社会的不断发展,迭部服饰亦发生了相应的变化和发展,从中我们可以窥视到当地藏族人民的生活习俗、审美情趣,以及种种的文化心态、宗教观念等。迭部藏族服饰因其独特的魅力,成为当地旅游经济发展的宝贵文化资源,不但成为当地文化旅游宣传的重要载体,而且丰富了藏族服饰的多样性。本文从迭部藏族的传统服饰出发,梳理了迭部藏族服饰在地域环境、生产方式、历史发展的影响下,所产生的种种变异及特点。位于沿白龙江下行到卡坝路附近的上迭地区的女性服饰变化不大,基本上保持了上述描述的特点。变化较大的是位于卡坝路至代古寺之间的下迭地区女性服饰。从原先的上下不连体：上衣为天蓝色衬衣、裤装为黑色的大裆裤,演变为当今在节日时妇女们穿着的旗袍式样的各色绸缎上下连体服饰。由于地域环境的不同,逐渐形成了上迭、中迭、下迭地区的服饰差别,同时显示了其年龄、婚否等信息。从中可以看出地域环境的因素对当地服饰的款式、色彩、质料以及符号寓意等,都具有很大的影响。然而随着科学技术和社会经济的不断发展,人们的生活水平也随之发生巨大的变化,人与人之间的交流,人与外面世界的交流也开始变得频繁,从而将各种服饰的信息传入当地,使各乡服饰间的差异亦越来越小,“同化”和“异化”的现象亦越来越快的转换中,因此地域环境对于服饰的影响,也在逐渐的变小。迭部藏族服饰体现了本身的历史发展轨迹,同为藏缅语族的各个民族,虽然在历史发展的洪流当中,发展为差别各异的民族,但表现出了传承性的服饰文化元素,如下迭地区的妇女头帕及精致的绣花针套。同时也说明了当地藏族的族源问题,学术界较流行的氐羌说与吐蕃东移之说都有一定的道理,如多儿等地的藏族至今都流传自己是吐蕃东迁时来时达布的军队后裔,其独特的服饰更是说明了服饰对于一个民族来说是一部没有文字的历史文献,是了解和认识一个民族的绝好史料。迭部藏族服饰体现了其鲜明的民俗特征。就服饰的色彩而言具体体现了以黑为美、以白为尚的审美心理。迭部藏族服饰的穿戴习惯及服饰的制作工艺都蕴含了其历史、宗教等的文化内涵。反映了当地藏族人民的原始信仰及万物有灵的观念。如下迭一带妇女足登奇数多层纳底靴子及妇女佩戴“琅昂”与“夯藏”时选择在女性十九、二十一等奇数年龄时举行成人仪式的现象。本文最后对迭部藏族女性服饰在现代化进程中的作用进行了分析,旨在引起更多的人了解迭部,关注迭部藏族悠久的服饰文化,为保护和抢救这份宝贵的民俗遗产,出一份自已的微薄之力。
[Abstract]:Clothing is the result of unique human labor, it is the crystallization and meaning of the material civilization and spiritual civilization, but also social and political, economic, cultural, ideological and other aspects of the comprehensive results; it is our understanding of the social and cultural key, we can learn more through the clothing culture life information. In the Gansu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Gannan Province in southeastern area of Diebu Tibetans, living in the White Mountains of Qinling Mountains Longjiang extends upstream of the Min Mountains fold belt, because of the inconvenience of traffic, long-term in a closed and traditional society, formed a unique folk costumes. With the continuous development of society, tewo clothing is also changed and the corresponding development, from which we can see the local Tibetan people's life custom, aesthetic taste, and a variety of cultural mentality, religious beliefs. Diebu Tibetan clothing because of its unique charm, Become valuable cultural resources for the development of local tourism economy, not only become an important carrier of local culture and tourism promotion, but also enriches the diversity of Tibetan costumes. The costumes of Diebu Tibetan, combing the Tibetan costume in Diebu region environment, mode of production, the influence of the historical development, all kinds of variations and characteristics are produced. Located along the white Longjiang down to women's clothing change card Dam Road in the vicinity of the stack area is small, basically keeps the characteristics described above. Larger changes are located between the dam road to the temple of the card on behalf of the lower area of women's clothing. From the original down is not connected: coat is sky blue shirt and trousers for the big black pants, the evolution of women wearing cheongsam style in today's holiday colored silk dress on separation. Due to different geographical environment, gradually formed on Diego Diego, in the lower area. Different costumes, and shows its age, marital status and other information. It can be seen that the style, geographical environment factors on the local clothing color, material and symbolic meaning, has a great influence. However, with the continuous development of science and technology and social economy, people's living standard has also undergone tremendous changes. The exchange between people, people and the outside world communication becomes frequent, which will be a variety of clothing information to the local, make a difference between each township clothing is also more and more small, "assimilation" and "alienation" phenomenon is more and more quick conversion, so the influence of geographical environment on the dress. In gradually become smaller. The Tibetan costume embodies the Diebu history itself, with each nation as the Tibeto Burman languages, although in the tide of historical development, for the development of different ethnic differences, but showed. The clothing culture element, following Diego area woman headband and exquisite embroidery needle sets. At the same time also shows that the problem of local Tibetan ethnic origin, academic popular Diqiang said that East and Tibet have some truth, as many children as the Tibetan has spread his Tibet eastward the army to the descendants of Darboux its unique clothing, is that fashion is not a literal historical documents for a nation, is a good understanding of historical data of a nation. The vast Tibetan costume Diebu embody its distinctive folk characteristics. Dress color reflects the specific black beauty, white is still the aesthetic psychology. Production process of wear habits and dress of the clothing Diebu Tibetans contains the history, religion and other cultural connotations. To reflect the original belief and all the local Tibetan people's spiritual ideas as follows. Diego area women's foot board odd women wearing boots and nano multilayer bottom "ang Lang" and "RAM Tibet" selection in nineteen women, twenty-one odd age adult ceremony held phenomenon. This paper finally analyzes the role of women's clothing in Diebu Tibetans in the process of modernization, to attract more people to understand tewo. Pay attention to clothing culture Diebu Tibetans long, to protect and save the precious heritage of folklore, a copy of their own meager strength.

【学位授予单位】：中央民族大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2015
【分类号】：TS941.12

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