山普拉墓地出土毛织服饰和织物研究

发布时间：2018-03-13 02:04

本文选题：套头衫　切入点：裤装　出处：《东华大学》2010年博士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：汉时丝绸之路“凿空”之后,沿途商贸往来繁忙。虽说装载的货物中有贵重的丝绸西去,然而有往必有来,那自西向东的来者会不会也带来了精美的织物,是各类}抑或是氍毹吗?牵着骆驼和马匹的客商们穿着又是怎样?给予边疆少数民族以其独特的生存方式的人们留下了丰富的物质和精神财富,是中华民族历史文化形成中不可或缺的重要组成部分。像关注汉族本土服饰文化一样关注少数民族的服饰文化与历史正是本文的选题初衷。新疆洛浦山普拉墓地出土的各类毛织服饰和织物给予研究者一个深入讨论的空间。丝绸之路沿途出土的华丽精美又带有异域风格毛织服饰和织物被奉为珍品,也需要人们去诠释它们原来的意义。诚然古代丝路上发生过的不仅仅是商贸,还有战争、迁徙和融合。这些历史上不曾被人们重视的西域小国的兴衰更替、民族服饰文化之间的潜移默化,因生疏而被漠化或误解。史籍文献的字里行间常以“异装奇服”论之,进而以为其代表着荒蛮文化而处处提防。事实上,存在于这些服饰和织物之中的意义,来自于这些身处气候条件恶劣、自然资源不稳定的民族从不断抵抗和适应变化复杂的自然环境与生物而积累出人对自然的颇为卓越的利用和掌控能力。本文以出土毛织物种类丰富,刊布情况较早,资料较为全面的西域史上于阗故地——新疆洛浦山普拉墓地出土的毛织服饰和织物为核心研究数据,对汉晋时期于阗古国典型毛织服饰与织物类型进行具体分析,进而探索丝绸之路天山南路汉晋时期古代于阗国以及周边地区服饰的款式功能、艺术设计和织物特点,研究该地域制衣、纺织技术的体系类别,探讨毛织服饰款式设计与织造编织技术的关系。本文涉及到服饰主要为套头衫、灯笼裤、横绦裙、腰带；涉及到的织物有缂毛、毛褐、毛“罗”、毛绦、毛绣和毛毯；涉及到的织物显花技术有缂织、绞孔、斜编、绞编、经显花、纬显花、刺绣等,其中包含通经多种纬向显花技术共存的特有织法；涉及到的织物基础组织有平纹和斜纹；涉及到的织造技术有宽幅立机系统、窄幅地机系统和卡片绞编机系统,其中含缂织和绞孔的局部工艺系统。与上述内容相关并进行关联性比较研究的织物主要出土于克里雅河圆沙古城遗址、扎滚鲁克古墓群、尼雅墓葬和营盘墓葬。本文重点讨论山普拉墓地出土的套头衫袍及腰带配饰、缂织横绦裙和裤装的款型搭配、面料种类以及制衣和纺织工艺,同时兼顾纹样与风格和史籍记载的研究,其中对缂毛织物的不同类型作了溯源研究。最后得出结论：首先,于阗古国以及周边地区的人们的服饰款式与面料设计受生存环境因素制约。毛织服饰款式设计与功能性密切相关,即必须以抵抗恶劣环境为设计前提,然后才是地域性和民族性不同所具有不同的装饰手法和细节部位的相异；其次,毛织服饰款式与面料直接相关,即根据款式用料(面料和辅料)所在部位和功用,织成不同的纱线细度、面料门幅、匹长、组织和纹样的毛料。即毛织物用途与种类之间具有对应匹配的关系。简单地说就是每一种毛料种类都有对应的用途。这个结论可以用来判断不明用途出土毛织物残片,根据织物种类来推测出比较可信的用途。再者,与丝织物相比较,毛类作为纺织材料具有自身的纤维特性,因此毛纺织技术的发展过程无法受丝织物织造技术的直接影响。毛纤维作为短纤维,因种类不同,长度和细度会有差异,所以在纺染织造过程中不同毛种有着自身的技术特点,以至于在织机的发展历程中具有三类机型共存于不同地区的情况。最后,无论毛纤维还是纺织技术,或者是服饰款式类别和纹饰图案,山普拉墓地出土的毛织物具有以草原文化和中西亚文化交汇的特点,间或受到中原丝织艺术和技术浅层的、表面模仿的或者是附加装饰技法方面的影响。本课题告一段落时,在本论文成文的体系之外,仍然有着可供讨论的空间值得深入。然而,仍然有一些不解与不确定来自于考古发现具有偶然性和文物资料获取的可能性。虽然有着种种困难,但本文最终首次完成对山普拉墓地出土的毛织服饰和织物进行系统的研究,揭示西域于阗古国居民主要服饰和织物的各种特征以及历史、艺术和文化中若干问题的诠释。对于出土毛织服饰和织物的研究方法提出了创新性的见解。经过本文的系统研究,西域于阗以及周边相关地区丰富多彩织物系统地被诠释出来,还原当地人们并不粗俗低下的服饰生活情景,填补了西域服饰纺织史中的一个空白。
[Abstract]:After the Han Dynasty silk road "chisel", along the way business busy. Although the precious cargo of silk to the west, but will have to go to the west to East, who will also bring exquisite fabrics, all kinds of } or woollen blanket? Camel and horse merchants dressed in what? Give minority people its unique way of life has left a rich material and spiritual wealth, is the history of the Chinese nation culture to form an integral part of the local Han Chinese clothing culture. As the same attention to minority costume culture and history is the original intention of this article to Xinjiang. Luopu sampula cemetery unearthed wool clothing and fabric to give researchers a thorough discussion of the space.
Along the Silk Road unearthed elegant with exotic style woolen clothing and fabric are regarded as treasures, also need people to interpret their original meaning. It occurred on the ancient Silk Road is not only the trade, and the war, migration and integration. These have not been the history of the rise and fall of people pay attention to the small country in the western regions change between the costume culture of the subtle, desertification or misunderstanding due to being strange. The historical literature between the lines often "transvestite costumes" theory, and think it represents the savage culture everywhere. In fact, in the clothing and fabric of the significance, from the in harsh climatic conditions, natural resources are not stable people from the natural environment and biological resistance and constantly adapt to changes in the complex and the accumulation of natural rather excellent use and control ability.
Based on the unearthed wool fabric variety, publication earlier and more comprehensive data on the history of Western Xinjiang Luopu Yutian haunt sampula cemetery unearthed wool clothing and fabric as the core of data of Han and Jin Dynasties ancient Yutian typical woolen clothing and fabric types for specific analysis, and then explore the the function of ancient styles in clothing Tian and the surrounding area in South Silk Road in the Han and Jin Dynasties, art design and fabric characteristics, study the regional system of garment, textile technology category, the relationship between wool clothing style design and weaving weaving technology.
This paper relates to the clothing mainly for pullovers, pants, skirt belt; transverse sash, relates to the fabric wool tapestry, brown hair, hair, hair ribbon, "Luo" hair embroidery fabric blanket; flowering technique involved with weaving embroidering, reaming, oblique, pigtail, after flowering. Weft figures embroidery, which contains a variety of weft weave through the unique flowering technology coexist; fabric based organizations involved with plain and twill; weaving technology involves the wide vertical machine system, narrow machine system and card cutter knitting machine system, the local process system including weaving embroidering and reaming. With the content and relevance of the comparative study of the fabric mainly unearthed in Keriya yuansha ruins ruins, zhagunluke ancient tombs, tombs, tombs and camp. This paper focuses on the discussion of sampula cemetery unearthed the pullover robe and belt accessories, weaving embroidering cross skirts and trousers style a sash With the type of fabric and garment and textile technology, both the research pattern and style and historical records, including different types of wool tapestry fabric made of traceability.
Conclusion: first, the clothing styles and fabric design in ancient Khotan people and the surrounding area is restricted by environment factors. The design and function of woolen clothing styles are closely related, must be taken to resist the bad environment for the design of the premise, then it is different in different regions and the nationality of different decorative techniques and the details of the site; secondly, woolen clothing styles and fabrics are directly related, according to the style of materials (fabric and accessories) the position and function of different woven yarn fineness, fabric width, length, and patterns of wool. The wool fabric has relation matching between use and types. Simply say that each species has a corresponding use of wool. This conclusion can be used to determine the unknown use of the unearthed wool fabric pieces according to the type of fabric to infer reliable use. Then, with silk The fabric is wool fiber as textile material has the characteristics of itself, therefore directly influence the development process of wool textile technology not by silk fabric technology. Wool fibers as short fibers, due to different types, length and fineness are different, so in the textile dyeing process for wool weaving technology has a different the characteristics of its own, that has three kinds of models coexist in different areas in the development process of the loom. Finally, both wool fiber or textile technology, or style of clothing categories and patterns, sampula cemetery unearthed wool fabric is characterized by intersection of grassland culture and the west culture, or by shallow the Central Plains silk art and technology, surface imitation or influence additional decoration technique aspects.
This topic comes to an end, in addition to the existing system, there is still room for discussion can be worth further. However, there are still some uncertainty from archaeological discovery has the possibility of chance and cultural relics get puzzled. Although there are many difficulties, but the final completion of the first unearthed on the hill Pula cemetery apparel wool textile and fabric were studied, revealing the western ancient Yutian residents mainly clothing and various features of fabric and history, some problems in the arts and culture interpretation. Research methods for wool fabrics and clothing from the innovative ideas have been put forward. Through this systematic research the western regions, Yutian and surrounding area related to rich and colorful fabric systematically interpreted, reducing local people are not low clothing life, fill a blank in the history of western apparel textile.

【学位授予单位】：东华大学
【学位级别】：博士
【学位授予年份】：2010
【分类号】：K876

【参考文献】