传统服饰中的缘边造型与工艺研究

发布时间：2018-03-15 06:20

本文选题：缘边　切入点：面料纱向　出处：《北京服装学院》2017年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：自古以来缘边在中国传统服装中就一直占据着非常重要的地位,缘边就是将衣裳边缘易脱纱处如领、襟、袖口、两侧开衩和下摆等处用面料包缝起来,形成具有功能性的边饰。通过对传统服饰缘边在不同历史时期的造型与工艺变化的梳理和研究,发掘其装饰结构特点和内在的精华,为传统服饰文化的传承与创新应用提供合理依据。本研究以传统服饰的缘边为着眼点,归纳和总结了不同历史时期礼制对传统缘边造型结构的影响,及缘边的工艺进行研究和探讨。首先,按纵向的历史发展分析缘边造型,并将缘边归纳分类为直纱缘边和斜纱缘边。直纱面料的缘边可起到保护和加固服装边缘的作用;斜纱面料的缘边可塑性强,多用作缘边装饰,使用工艺有镶、嵌、滚等,形成不同的结构形态和装饰手段。其次,以缘边的材料(材质、色彩、纹样)与工艺(镶、滚、嵌)的组合为研究对象,解析各类服饰实物中的缘边造型与装饰工艺,归纳总结其造型特点与缘边面料的叠加层数的关系。最后,以苗族、布依族、畲族三个少数民族传统服饰为例,分组解析其缘边工艺,从而进一步的以实物为对象研究传统服饰缘边造型工艺。本论文采用文献分析与实物考证相结合的方法,从缘边的造型与工艺研究传统服饰的缘边。对历史发展中的缘边宽窄变化、曲直变迁、裁剪方式和装饰工艺的演变发展作出了做出系统直观的图文描述,总结归纳了传统服饰中缘边从窄到宽、从直到曲、简单到复杂、平面到立体的造型变化规律,以及缘边面料的薄厚、层次、肌理、色彩和纹样搭配对服装造型的影响。以此作为我们探讨中国传统服饰本质的研究依据,更为清晰的了解缘边的装饰特点与内在工艺结构,为现代设计提供可靠的理论依据,也为传统服饰的创新设计提供参考。
[Abstract]:Since ancient times, the edge edge has occupied a very important position in the traditional Chinese clothing. The edge edge is that the edge of the dress is easily stripped off from the yarn, such as collar, skirt, cuff, both sides of the slit and hem, and so on. Through combing and studying the shape and craft changes of traditional dress edge in different historical period, we can find out the characteristics and inner essence of its decoration structure. This study focuses on the edge of traditional dress and summarizes the influence of etiquette on the structure of traditional border modeling in different historical periods, and provides a reasonable basis for the inheritance and innovative application of traditional dress culture. Firstly, according to the historical development of longitudinal analysis, the edge edge is classified as straight yarn edge edge and skew yarn edge edge. The edge edge of straight yarn fabric can protect and strengthen the garment edge. The edge edge of oblique yarn fabric has strong plasticity and is mostly used as edge edge decoration. The use process includes inlaid, embedded, rolling and so on, forming different structural forms and decorative means. Secondly, the material (material, color, pattern) of edge edge and technology (inlay, roll, etc.). The combination of embedded) as the research object, analyzes the edge edge modeling and decoration technology of all kinds of clothing objects, summarizes the relationship between the modeling characteristics and the number of superimposed layers of edge fabrics. Finally, taking Miao nationality, Buyi nationality, The traditional dress of three minority nationalities of she nationality is taken as an example, which is divided into groups to analyze its edge edge technology, so as to further study the traditional dress edge modeling technology by taking the object as the object. This paper adopts the method of combining literature analysis with object textual research. This paper makes a systematic and visual description of the evolution of the border margin in the historical development, such as the change of width and width of the edge, the change of the straight edge, the evolution of the cutting method and the decorative technology. This paper sums up the changing rules of traditional dress from narrow to wide, from simple to complex, plane to three-dimensional, from narrow to wide, and the thin thickness, layer and texture of edge fabric, The influence of collocation of color and pattern on garment modeling. As the basis of our research on the essence of Chinese traditional clothing, we can understand more clearly the decorative characteristics and internal technological structure of edge edge, and provide a reliable theoretical basis for modern design. Also provides the reference for the traditional clothing innovation design.
【学位授予单位】：北京服装学院
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.6

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