留学生毕业论文节选内容|印度服装业：机遇无限

发布时间：2017-01-05 08:14

印度服装行业在过去的几年中取得了重大进展,并且如今许多世界领先的时尚标签都从印度采购他们的产品。服装行业传统上被视为就业、出口创汇的主要来源。然而最近，基于成功的东亚经济体，它也是在快速增长的低收入经济体的主导部门。

印度纺织工业约占到工业生产中14%，对该国的国内生产总值 (GDP)贡献 4%和，占该国的出口收入的17%，，。这其中大约 45%来自服装出口单。新德里、 孟买、 曼古、 班加罗尔和钦奈是五个主要的服装生产中心，生产专供出口市场。

Karnataka has a sizeable presence in the garments and textiles sector; many well-known multinational brands have chosen this state to set up their global sourcing centres. (Source: Central Statistical Organisation (CSO))

As of March 2008, textile industry provides direct employment to over 35 million people and is the second largest provider of employment after agriculture. In addition to direct employment, the industry generates significant employment through forward and backward linkages, both in traditional activities like production of cotton and other natural fibers and in modern industries like textile design and fashions. Apart from the employment potential, the large number of skilled and unskilled activities in the industry makes the sector extremely important from the perspective of inclusive growth. (Source: office of textile commissioner).

The apparel sector has over 25000 domestic manufacturers, 48,000 fabricators and around 4000 manufacturers/exporters. Over 80% of these are small operations (less than 20 machines) and are proprietorship or partnership firms. In 2001, GOI de-notified RMG products from SSI reservation list for obvious reasons. As stated before, cotton apparels constitute major part of India's apparel exports, although cotton appears to be out-thing in current global markets with share declining from 50% in 1982 to 38% in 2003. The export product mix of India is quite interesting with low and mid priced products and also high fashion items. (Source: Rk Gupta Paper)

According to the Ministry of Textiles, the cumulative production of cloth during April'09-March'10 has increased by 8.3 per cent as compared to the corresponding period of the previous year. Garment is the major export product of Indian T&C industry, constituting 43% by value of the total T&C exports in 2007-08, followed by Made-ups (16%),Yarn (14%) and Fabric (14%). EU27 is the largest export market for Indian T&C products, with a share of 33% by value of the total T&C exports in 2007-08;UK alone accounts for 7.5% of India's total T&C export value.US is the second largest export market with a share of 21% by value of total T&C exports in 2007-08. Other important export markets are UAE, China, Italy, Bangladesh and Japan.

Today China's Apparel exports are touching $ 50 billion followed by Mexico (over $ 8 billion) followed in the third place with countries like India ($ 6 billion), Sri Lanka and Bangladesh ($ 5-6 billion). But along with huge opportunity there is a threat of increased commodisation of mainstream garments, global competition from China and other countries. Consequently, Indian Apparel companiesare forced to reduce their cost of production and to innovate if they are to stake out new markets.

According to one Industry estimates, India can reach the target of US$25 billion by the year 2010 up from US$6 billion at present. But looking at present scenario, the real question is whether India will move from current level to $ 8-9 billion by 2010 or 25 billion by 2010.

India's Apparel Industry has many advantages: Competitive labour costs, abundant raw materials (world's third largest producer of raw cotton), local textile production, and skilled designers.

2.1.2 SWOT Analysis of Indian Garments Industry:

Strengths:

a) Strong raw material base:

Indian has the largest area under cultivation for cotton across the world and is the world's third largest producer of cotton after China and US. It is the most dominant fiber in the garment industry and cotton garments account for nearly 75% of the total Indian apparel exports.

India is also one of the largest producers of man made fiber, however this has not translated into significant advantage as Indian companies are not cost competitive due to high degree of fragmentation in the industry. The easy availability of cotton is one of the advantages for the Indian apparel sector.

b) Low labour costs:

India has one of the lowest labour rates in the world, which adds to the higher cost competitiveness of the Indian companies. Labour cost in India is as low as 75 cents per hour as compared to 100 cents in china and 120 cents in case of Thailand and 300 cents in case of Turkey.(Source : office of textile commisoner)

Since textile industry is price sensitive and labour sensitive, the cost effectiveness directly translates into competitiveness.

c) High quality designing

World over, Indian designers are respected for their high skills in designing and artistry. The growing prominence of Indian designs in the world fashion circuit is evident by the recent successful fashion shows of Indian designers in EU and USA. Garments designed by the Indian designers are increasingly getting acceptance across the world. Large apparel companies are increasingly looking for outsourcing high end designer apparels from Indian fashion houses.

d) Strength across the value chain

Unlike other nations, India has end to end capabilities for spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garment manufacturing. The presence across the value chain provides cost efficiencies to Indian companies on account of synergies of operation. Further it enables Indian companies to source their material locally, thereby reducing the lead time and investment in inventories.

Weaknesses

Key Impediments for the Indian Textile Industry:

Fragmented Industry

The Indian RMG industry is highlyfragmented. There are more than 7,500 exporters registered with the Apparel Export Promotion Council (APEC). The turnover of more than 50% companies is less than US$ 0.1 million. Further, there are around 100,000 apparel manufacturers present in the country both in the organized as well as in the unorganized sector.

Fragmented industry which leads to lower ability to expand and emerge as "world class" players.

In fabric, large section of the industry is in the power loom and handloom sectors. Global buyers prefer to source their entire requirements from two to three vendors, and Indian garmenters find it difficult to fulfill the capacity requirements.

Effect of Historical Government Policies
Historical regulations though relaxed continue to be an impediment to global competitiveness. The industry continues to be affected by several historical regulations continue eg absence of a viable exit option for industry players.

These regulations result in a complex industry structure, which is currently an impediment. On the other hand, in some cases the industry too has not taken full advantage of government initiatives eg TUF.

Lower Productivity and Cost Competitiveness

Lower cost competitiveness has hampered ability to compete with lower cost global players. This is due to the lower productivity of labour force in India as compared to other countries like china, Sri Lanka etc. Moreover; the Indian industry lacks adequate economies of scale and is therefore unable to compete with china and other countries.

Global players usually prefer outsourcing in large volume to take advantage of economies of scale; however Indian manufacturers find it difficult to fulfill large orders due to limited production capacity.

Technological Obsolescence

Technology obsolescence has resulted in the need of significant technology investments to achieve world class quality.

Inadequate Infrastructure

The Indian apparel sector has been facing various problems on account of poor infrastructure. Due to poor road conditions, companies face difficulty in transporting raw material from source to the processing units and further in the transfer of finished goods from the warehouses to the ports causing delay in the dispatch and delivery of finished products to the final destination. Further, due to high traffic there is severe pressure on the port infrastructure and the consignment suffer delays in custom clearance.

Opportunities:

Replacement of the MFA by the WTO ended four decades of protectionism and is likely to increase global trade.

Quotas continued for China after 2005.

Textile industry identified as a thrust area by government for development and promotion of exports.

Phasing out of textile manufacturing by western countries due to high cost of production. Production facilities are likely to move to developing economies and thus are expected to be major beneficiaries.

Consolidation in the global retail industry facilitating global sourcing.

Shift in domestic market towards readymade garments. Per capita domestic textile consumption offers room for growth, with increasing disposable incomes.

Threats:

Survival of the fittest - in terms of quality, size, delivery and cost.

In the post WTO era, competition in the international trade and textile is likely to be intensified. Competition from other textile exporting countries would need to be faced in the domestic market also.

Threat of dumping with lower tariff barriers. However, so far, lowered tariffs have not increased apparel imports into the country.

Developed countries adopting non-tariff barriers in the form of anti-dumping duties

and Regional Trade Agreements (though their legality is questionable).

2.1.1. Indian Ready Made Garment Industry poised for exponential growth:

The total market for RMG in 2004-05 was estimated around USD 20.4 billion and is expected to rise to USD 38-40 billion by 2009-10 with a CAGR of 13-14% per annum. With a share of more than 68% in the total sales revenue generated in 2004-05, domestic market has significant impact over the health of textile sector. The total value of domestic RMG market in 2004-05 was around USD 14bn and is expected to grow to USD 24 billion by 2009-10 with a CAGR of 10-11%.

Key Demand Drivers for domestic market:

Rising income level

Rising population of working women with high disposable income

Changing demographics

Changing consumption patterns

Increasing brand preference

The premium (branded) segments are likely to witness higher growth as compared to the generic segments. The increasing preference for branded apparels and mall culture of impulsive buying coupled with the higher disposable income are likely to help the branded segments attain a higher CAGR of 18-20% per annum.

2.1.2. Exports are key driver of Ready Made Garments Industry
The Ready Made Garment sector is the biggest segment in the India's textile export basket, contributing over 46% of total textile exports and a little over 12% of the total exports from the country. The exports of RMG have grown over the past one and the half decade at a CAGR of 13%.

Currently exports account for 31% of the total revenues of RMG sector. In 2004-05 the total exports market was estimated at USD 6.4 billion and is expected to become USD 16 billion opportunities by 2009-10 growing with a CAGR of 18-20%.

Key growth drivers of RMG exports are:

Abolition of quotas under Multi-fiber agreement (MFA), across the globe.

Imposition of quotas on import from China by the European Union (EU) and the US.

Increased outsourcing from major international players.

The quotas imposed over the exports from the low-cost manufacturing countries like India under the Multi-fiber agreement (MFA), were the key impediments that had hindered the growth of domestic RMG companies. During the quota regimen exports grew by a moderate CAGR of 6.3% from USD 4.6 billion in 2000-01 to USD 6.2 bn in 2004-05.

US and EU are two key exports destinations for Indian RMG Companies. Currently with an export value of USD 2.1bn India has a share of 3% of total US apparel imports (in terms of Sq. mt) and is expected to increase to 6% by 2010. The total value of exports from India in 2009-10 is expected around USD 6.8 bn.

The growth in apparel exports to the US market would be largely driven by apparels made from cotton, the segment where India has natural advantage.

Indian exports to EU are expected to grow at a CAGR of 25-27%. Further Indian companies would gain by the quotas restrictions imposed over the Chinese companies by the EU. Indian apparel exports to EU are expected to grow from USD 1.5 bn in 2004-05 to USD 4.5-5.0 by 2009-10.

The growth in exports of apparels from man-made fibers (MMF) is expected to be marginal, as countries like China, Vietnam, Philippines and Indonesia are more

competitive than India. Compared to cotton fabric, man-made fabric industry is more fragmented in India.

The abolition of quotas would also likely to boost outsourcing opportunities for Indian companies. Big international organized retail players such as Wal-Mart, JC Penny, Marks and Spencer, Nike etc has identified India as the key outsourcing destination so as to take advantage of low costs production capabilities.

2.1.5 Scenario : Post MFA

Introduction

The Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA) has governed international trade in textiles and clothing since 1974. The MFA enabled developed nations, mainly the USA, European Union and Canada to restrict imports from developing countries through a system of quotas.

The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) to abolish MFA quotas marked a significant turnaround in the global textile trade. The ATC mandated progressive phase out of import quotas established under MFA, and the integration of textiles and clothing into the multilateral trading system before January 2005.

The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing

ATC is a transitory regime between the MFA and the integration of trading in textiles and clothing in the multilateral trading system. The ATC provided for a stage-wise integration process to be completed within a period of ten years (1995-2004), divided into four stages starting with the implementation of the agreement in 1995. The product groups from which products were to be integrated at each stage of the integration included (i) tops and yarns; (ii) fabrics; (iii) made-up textile products; and (iv) clothing.

The ATC mandated that importing countries must integrate a specified minimum portion of their textile and garment exports based on total volume of trade in 1990, at the start of each phase of integration. In the first stage, each country was required to integrate 16 percent of the total volume of imports of 1990, followed by a further 17 percent at the end of first three year and another 18 percent at the end of third stage. The fourth stage would see the final integration of the remaining 49 percent of trade.

Potential Gains

The end to textile quota regime on January 1, 2005 has opened lot of opportunities for Indian Garment Industry. Currently, world apparel trade is more than $ 200 billion annually which is expected to grow to about $ 655 billion by 2010 and is indicative of the tremendous opportunity for accelerated growth for the sector. There is belief among a section that India happens to be in a better position to gain, from opportunity to tap the global market unhindered by tariff barriers, than many other countries except China.

The phasing out of the Multi Fibre Agreement (MFA) in 2005 was a great opportunity for small factories to increase garment production for exports. As the market became highly competitive, only factories that could produce at the lowest cost survived; many were forced to close shop. Thus, stiff competition was inevitable among different factories in the country and also among the countries of the third world that were able to produce garments at a much lower cost than India. There were instances where India lost orders to China and Bangladesh. Just a couple of years ago, India was at second position in garment exports, after China; today it stands sixth with countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam higher up the ladder. Again, the pressure to produce at lower and lower costs is adversely impacting the worker at the lowest end of the chain

2.1.6 Needs of Indian Garment Industry

Cost competitiveness in Indian garments sector has been restrained by limited scale operations, obsolete technology and reservation under SSI policies. While retaining its traditional cost advantages of home grown cotton and low cost labour, India needs to sharpen its competitive edge by lowering the cost of operations through efficient use of production inputs and scale operations. Besides, there are needs for rationalization of charges, levies related to usage of export logistics to remain cost competitive.

As fallout to the quota regime, there would be consolidation of production and restriction on supplying countries, which would necessarily mean improved scale operations. Indian players should also integrate to achieve operating leverage and demonstrate high bargaining power.

It is reported that Chinese textile firms have already invested heavily to expand and grab huge market share in the quota free world. In India, organised players in this sector would require huge investments to remain competitive in the quota free world. These players need to expand and integrate vertically to achieve scale operations and introduce new technologies. It is estimated that the industry would require Rs. 1.5 trillion (US $ 35 billion) new capital investment in the next ten years (by 2014) to lap the potential export opportunities of US $ 70 billion. It is estimated that USA and EU together would offer a market of US $ 42 billion for Indian textiles and garments in 2014.(Source: Exim Bank of India)

Technology would play a lead role in the weaving and processing, which would improve quality and productivity levels. Innovations would also be happening in this sector, as many developed countries would innovate new generation machineries that are likely to have low manual interface and power cost. Indian textile industry should also turn into high technology mode to reap the benefits of scale operations and quality. Foreign investments coupled with foreign technology transfer would help the industry to turn into high-tech mode.

Internationally, trading in textile and garment sector is concentrated in the hands of large retail firms. Majority of them are looking for few vendors with bulk orders and hence opting for vertically integrated companies. Thus, there is need for integrating the operations in India also, from spinning to garment making, to gain their attention. This would also bring down the turn around time and improve quality. Indian players should also improve upon their soft skills, viz., design capabilities, textile technology, management and negotiating skills.

Garment manufacturing business is order driven. It would be difficult for the players to keep the workforce full time, even in lean season. This calls for changes in contract labour laws.

Logistics and supply chain would also play a crucial role as timely delivery would be an important requirement for success in international trade. The logistics and supply chain management of Indian textile firms are relatively weak and needs improvement and efficiency. China has already created a world class export infrastructure. Given the volume of projections for exports by India, it may be necessary to create additional export infrastructure, especially investment for modernization of ports. In addition, India needs to invest for creating brand equity, supply chain management and apparel industry education.

To sum up, the ability of Indian textile industry to take advantage of quota phase-out would depend upon their ability to enhance overall competitiveness through exploitation of economies of scale in manufacturing and supply chain. The need of the hour therefore is to evolve awell chalked out strategy, aimed at improvement in the levels of productivity and efficiency, quality control, faster product innovation, quick response to changes in consumer preferences and the ability to move up in the value chain by building brand names and acquiring channels of distribution so as to outweigh the advantages of competitors in the long run.

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