明清章补纹饰在现代服装设计中的运用

发布时间：2018-01-29 00:46

本文关键词： 章补纹饰现代服装运用方法设计实践　出处：《浙江理工大学》2015年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：补子作为一种官员身份和等级的标识，是明清时期发达织造工艺的产物，它的纹样精美、做工考究、寓意丰富，具有极高的艺术审美性和文化寓意性，是中国古代服饰中最能体现中国文化特征的饰物之一。在《收藏“补子”》一文称：补子是西方人收求的中国织绣品中，最受欢迎的一种，具有很高的艺术价值、文化价值、审美价值与收藏价值。补子作为中国传统服饰纹样的精品，对现代服装设计中的服饰图案的设计具有很好的借鉴意义。大部分涉及补子纹样的相关历史书籍与文献资料，都是关于补子在何种品级的官员穿戴何种纹样的补子的研究，仅仅停留在补子纹样的辨别层面以及补子纹样特点的解析层面。而把补子纹饰运用到现代服装设计中的研究并不是很多，，在这方面缺乏一些相关理论研究的指导。本论文以明清章补纹饰的研究为基础，研究和探讨如何将其应用于现代服装设计领域。首先，本文从章补纹饰的起源、纹样解析、寓意性、审美性和文化性等方面进行研究，对形成系统而全面的章补纹饰理论作一定的基础性研究工作；其次，本文在概括总结章补纹样的概念、特点的基础上，结合一些国内外著名设计师作品，研究如何运用章补纹样进行服装设计，主要从从图案、色彩、质地、神韵等方面进行分析；第三，本文结合前三章中对明清章补纹饰特征分析及其在现代服装设计中的应用分析，并结合第三章中所提出的设计创新前景进行系列设计实践。其中包括两个系列，第一个系列的设计侧重点为章补纹样的创新运用；第二个系列主要侧重于纹样内涵审美角度，根据设计需求对纹样进行再设计，并进行系列服装设计。本文在大量文献与资料阅读的基础上，对明清章补纹饰中的非主题纹样按照装饰部位重新尽了划分，分为了内容装饰纹样、边饰纹样和背景纹样，是对前人研究的深化；本文以章补纹饰的概念、构成、寓意为基础，以现代服装设计的理念，现代服装设计对纹样特征的要求，现代服装设计的设计原则和东西方对明清章补纹饰设计手法的运用和运用形式分析为前提，得出了明清章补纹饰在现代服装设计中的运用特点：西方设计师对章补纹样的运用更多的是纹样形式上的直白运用，运用手法多集中在直接应用、化繁为简、抽象变形等设计手法，而东方设计师由于对本民族文化有着深刻的理解，对章补纹饰的运用更加注重东方神韵的传达，并在具体的表达中结合中国传统的工艺，在准确传达东方神韵的同时而又极具视觉美感；本文的设计实践部分亦是从本文结论出发，分别从纹样创新和纹样内涵审美的角度对第三章的结论进行了运用。希望通过对章补纹样的理论归纳和设计实践的分析能为章补纹样在现代服装设计中的运用的创新起到一定的借鉴作用。
[Abstract]:As a symbol of official status and rank, Buzi is the product of the developed weaving technology in Ming and Qing dynasties. It has fine patterns, fine workmanship, rich moral and high artistic aesthetic and cultural implication. "Buzi" is one of the most characteristic ornaments in ancient Chinese clothing. "Buzi" is one of the most popular Chinese embroidery products that westerners ask for. It has high artistic value, cultural value, aesthetic value and collection value. It has a good reference significance for the design of clothing patterns in modern fashion design. Most of the related historical books and documents related to patchwork patterns. It is all about the research of the patchwork in which grade officials wear what pattern. Only stay in the patchwork pattern discrimination level and patchwork pattern characteristics of the analytic level. But the application of patchwork patterns in modern clothing design is not a lot of research. In this respect, there is a lack of some relevant theoretical research guidance. This paper is based on the research of the Ming and Qing Dynasty, research and discuss how to apply it to the field of modern clothing design. First, this paper from the origin, pattern analysis, meaning. The aesthetic and cultural aspects of the study, the formation of a systematic and comprehensive chapter and decoration theory for a certain basic research work; Secondly, on the basis of summarizing the concept and characteristics of the pattern, combined with some famous designers at home and abroad, this paper studies how to use the pattern to carry on the clothing design, mainly from the design, the color, the texture. The charm and other aspects of the analysis; Third, this article combined with the first three chapters of the Ming and Qing Dynasty Zhang complementary decorative features and its application in modern clothing design analysis. And combined with the design innovation prospect proposed in the third chapter to carry out a series of design practice, including two series, the first series of design focus on the innovative use of chapter patterns; The second series mainly focuses on the aesthetic point of view of pattern connotation, according to the design needs to redesign the pattern, and carry out a series of clothing design. On the basis of reading a large number of documents and materials, this paper reclassifies the non-thematic patterns in the Ming and Qing Dynasty Zhanfu patterns according to the decorative parts, and divides them into decorative patterns, edge patterns and background patterns. Is the deepening of previous studies; This paper is based on the concept, composition and implication of the decoration, and on the concept of modern fashion design, the requirements of modern fashion design on the pattern characteristics. The design principle of modern fashion design and the analysis of the application and application form of the decoration design method of the Ming and Qing dynasties are the premise of the East-West. Obtained in the Ming and Qing Dynasty in the use of modern clothing design features: Western designers of the use of patterns is more direct use of patterns, the use of techniques are concentrated in direct application, complex into simple. Abstract deformation and other design techniques, and the oriental designers because of their profound understanding of the national culture, the use of zhanfu patterns pay more attention to the communication of Oriental charm, and in the specific expression of the combination of Chinese traditional technology. In the accurate transmission of Oriental charm at the same time and very visual aesthetic sense; The design practice part of this paper is also based on the conclusion of this paper. The conclusion of chapter three is applied from the angle of pattern innovation and pattern connotation aesthetics respectively. It is hoped that through the theoretical induction and design practice analysis of the chapter supplement pattern, it can be used in the modern clothing design. Innovation plays a certain role in reference.
【学位授予单位】：浙江理工大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2015
【分类号】：TS941.2

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