近代汉族民间服饰暗纹的装饰色彩及创新研究

发布时间：2018-03-07 23:04

本文选题：暗纹　切入点：色彩特征　出处：《江南大学》2017年硕士论文　论文类型：学位论文

【摘要】：暗纹织物一直以来都是一种非常重要的织物品种,是在当今的社会中依然可以看到大量这种装饰的服饰、纺织品和装饰品,但是对于暗纹的定义在学术上却没有一个准确的解释。因此对暗纹的研究就显得尤为重要。暗纹是指纹样和装饰载体在视觉上的差异不明显的一个装饰手法,学术上关于对暗纹的直接研究成果并不多,但是间接对暗纹研究的相关文献则不胜枚举,这为本文的研究提供了理论基础和研究方法。暗纹的运用十分广泛,本次研究课题将在现代设计理论中,围绕暗纹的装饰、色彩特点的研究,运用色彩学的基本原理探索暗纹的各种配色的可能性,以及暗纹装饰可以为街头风格服饰的设计带来一定的实用性和创新性的影响。本文从近代汉族民间服饰的暗纹装饰入手,探究暗纹在色彩学中的特点、对装饰的影响和装饰规律,基于市场数据研究传统纹样以暗纹的形式在现代服装设计中的应用。其中暗纹在色彩学中的特点和暗纹对装饰的影响和装饰规律为本位的重点,为暗纹服饰设计提供了理论前提。首先运用实地与网络调查相结合的方式,从各大图书馆、博物馆以及江南大学民间服饰传习馆的数据库中收集了大量图片、文献资料等,通过分类、归纳、整理的方式,并运用相关知识对近代汉族民间服饰的暗纹有了初步的了解。其次,运用相关理论,经过分析、对比,总结出近代汉族民间服饰暗纹的装饰对视觉的作用与反作用,以及服饰暗纹装饰所遇到的局限性,结合人类学方面的相关知识,并对纹样装饰的象征作用做出解读。再次,运用色彩的色相、纯度、明度三个要素对暗纹的色彩进行分析,得到了近代汉族民间服饰的暗纹色彩特点,并发现了北方山西地区与南方江南地区的服饰暗纹色彩的特点,并运用文献和实物相结合的方法对当时色彩僭礼行为的原因进行分析,之后运用色彩三要素建立了色彩坐标系,并选取锚点色彩,通过与锚点色彩的三围对比,得出暗纹在色彩学的特征。最后经过网络调研,实地调研和调查问卷的形式了解当今年轻人的消费喜好、消费倾向和风格偏好,最后结合街头风格服饰的特点,运用暗纹的色彩特征进行设计实践,从中总结出暗纹在街头风格的服装设计方法,以达到研究目的。
[Abstract]:Dark stripe fabric has been a very important variety of fabric, in today's society can still see a lot of the decorative clothing, textiles and accessories, but the definition of the dark lines in the academic is not an accurate explanation. So it is important to research the dark lines dark lines. Refers to a decoration decoration patterns and differences in the visual carrier is not obvious, the academic research on directly about the dark lines are not many, but indirectly related literature on the dark lines of research is that for this study be too numerous to enumerate, and provided the theoretical basis and research methods. The use of dark lines widely, this research topic in modern design theory, around the dark lines of decoration, color characteristics, the possibility of using the basic principle of color science to explore various color dark lines, and dark lines can be decorated the streets Bring some practical and innovative design style clothing. This article from the folk dress in modern Han decoration with dark, dark stripes in the color inquiry in the decoration and decorative effect, rules and market research data in the form of traditional patterns of dark lines used in modern clothing design based on. The dark lines in color in the dark and influence on the decoration and decorative pattern as the standard key, provides a theoretical premise for dark clothing design. First, the use of field survey and network combination, from the library, museum and folk costumes Museum of Jiangnan University collected in the database a large number of pictures, documents, through the classification, induction, consolidation, and use the knowledge of modern Han nationality folk costume dark lines have a preliminary understanding. Secondly, using the related theory, through analysis, Comparison, summed up the modern Chinese folk costume decoration of dark lines and anti visual effects, limitations and clothing decoration dark encountered, combined with knowledge of anthropology, and the decorative pattern symbolism interpretation. Once again, the use of color hue, purity, color of the three elements of dark brightness pattern analysis, the dark color characteristics of the folk dress of Han nationality in China, and found that the characteristics of the northern Shanxi region and southern Jiangnan clothing dark color, and the use of reason was beyond ceremony behavior color literature and physical combination analysis, then use the three color elements of color coordinates is established system, and select the anchor and anchor measurements by comparing the color, color, draw lines on the characteristics of color. After the final form of network research, field survey and questionnaire to understand when this year Light people's consumption preferences, consumption preferences and style preferences. Finally, combined with the characteristics of street style costumes, we use the color characteristics of dark patches to carry out the design practice, and conclude the fashion design methods of dark streaks in street style, so as to achieve the purpose of research.

【学位授予单位】：江南大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2017
【分类号】：TS941.742.8

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