鲍德里亚的时尚理论研究

发布时间：2018-06-19 00:41

本文选题：鲍德里亚 + 时尚理论　；参考：《湘潭大学》2016年硕士论文

【摘要】：时尚是当代社会备受青睐的新鲜话题,也是一种独特的文化现象。随着历史的变迁,时尚具有了更大的兼容性和聚合性,众多理论家通过研究时尚与社会经济、历史发展以及阶级进化的联系,形成一系列经典的时尚理论,这为鲍德里亚关注时尚、解读时尚建立起坚固的理论基石。鲍德里亚基于对现实的思考,看到当下已处于消费社会之中,拟像与真实之间的界限已经内爆,人也逐渐沦陷到诱惑的深渊中。鲍德里亚之所以会关注时尚现象,正是因为时尚现象在全新的社会情境下发生了异化与畸变,在消费社会、拟像秩序和诱惑深渊中大行其道,势不可挡,衍生出与消费社会理论、拟像秩序及诱惑理论完美契合的特质。鲍德里亚适时抓住时尚若即若离的影子,在符号消费理论、拟像理论和诱惑理论的视角下对时尚进行解读,使时尚散发出不一样的理论气息。符号消费理论表明,时尚成为一种区别性的差异符号,是阶层地位、品味、价值的象征性标志。在拟像理论的视域下,时尚成为鲍德里亚拟像三重秩序的另一种诠释。在拟真阶段,时尚成为唯一具有普遍形式的符号系统,人们不断更新物品,实际上却是不断更新作为拟真的象征性符号的时尚。在诱惑理论视域下,作为混杂着时尚元素和色情符号的论坛,模特的身体成为时尚的性,消费机制借助媒介技术对模特进行全方位的包装,让身体重新具有了极大的诱惑力,以此来实施其罪恶的资本控制战略。总而言之,不论是在消费视域、拟像视域还是诱惑视域中,鲍德里亚眼中的时尚成为一种具有普遍形式的符号系统,是其他一切系统的主宰者和控制者。时尚也是一种具有裁判权的强制性模式,只要是模式存在的范畴,就有时尚符号对个体的镇压和羁绊,使人在无意义和零度逻辑的深渊中沉沦。在后现代社会中,历史宏大叙事和真理本质随着现实基础的崩塌而分崩离析,时尚在这样的语境下也散发着深厚的后现代理论特质。颠覆性与不可颠覆性及再循环逻辑揭示出时尚的反本质特征。时尚对其他革命秩序和理性制度进行颠覆,其再循环逻也演变成一种现实性原则,对大众进行指导性的时尚游戏。时尚主体任由欲望机制的摆布与控制,逐渐沦为时尚符号的奴隶。通过编码时尚的符号,加工时尚的幻象,散播时尚的神话,资本主义将时尚变成了政治统治的麻醉剂和迷幻剂。在当下社会,时尚符号已将人类重重包围,甚至影响到人类的判断能力和思维能力。鲍德里亚对时尚的剖析与批判虽存在偏颇之处,却为我们建立一种反思性的时尚态度指明了方向,也为我们寻觅一条合理的时尚之路指明了方向。在如此复杂的时尚环境中,主体应该保持理性,既不拒绝,也不盲目追随,与时尚建立一种反思性的关联。
[Abstract]:Fashion is a new topic and a unique cultural phenomenon in contemporary society. With the change of history, fashion has become more compatible and convergent. By studying the relationship between fashion and social economy, historical development and class evolution, many theorists have formed a series of classical fashion theories. This is Baudrillard's attention to fashion, the interpretation of fashion to establish a solid theoretical foundation. Based on his thinking of reality, Baudrillard sees that the present moment is already in the consumer society, the boundary between simulacra and reality has imploded, and man has gradually fallen into the abyss of temptation. The reason why Baudrillard pays attention to the fashion phenomenon is precisely because the fashion phenomenon has been dissimilated and distorted in the new social context, and it is unstoppable in the consumer society, the simulacrum order and the temptation abyss. Derived from the consumptive social theory, simulacra order and temptation theory perfectly in line with the characteristics. Baudrillard caught the shadow of fashion and interpreted fashion from the perspective of symbolic consumption theory, simulative theory and temptation theory, which made fashion exude a different theoretical atmosphere. The theory of symbolic consumption shows that fashion becomes a differential symbol and a symbolic symbol of class status, taste and value. Fashion has become another interpretation of the triple order of Baudrillard's simulacra from the perspective of simulacra theory. In the stage of imitation, fashion becomes the only symbol system with universal form. People keep updating objects, but in fact, they are constantly updating fashion as virtual symbolic symbols. From the perspective of temptation theory, as a forum mixed with fashion elements and pornographic symbols, the body of a model becomes fashionable. The consumption mechanism carries out a comprehensive packaging of the model with the aid of media technology, which makes the body have a great attraction again. In order to implement its criminal capital control strategy. In a word, whether it is in the view of consumption, simulation or temptation, the fashion in the eyes of Baudrillard has become a universal form of symbol system, and is the master and controller of all other systems. Fashion is also a compulsory mode with adjudication power. As long as it is the category of mode, there is the suppression and fetters of individual by fashion symbols, which makes people sink in the abyss of meaningless and zero logic. In the post-modern society, the historical grand narrative and the essence of truth fall apart with the collapse of the realistic foundation, and fashion also exudes profound post-modern theoretical characteristics in such a context. Subversive and non-subversive and recycling logic reveal the anti-essential characteristics of fashion. Fashion subverts other revolutionary order and rational system, and its recirculation logic also evolves into a kind of realistic principle, which is a guiding fashion game to the masses. Subject of fashion is at the mercy and control of desire mechanism, and gradually become the slave of fashion symbol. By coding fashion symbols, processing fashion illusions and spreading fashion myths, capitalism turned fashion into a political anaesthetic and a hallucinogen. In the present society, fashion symbols have surrounded human beings and even affected their ability to judge and think. Although Baudrillard's analysis and criticism of fashion is biased, it indicates the direction for us to establish a reflective fashion attitude, and also points out the direction for us to seek a reasonable fashion path. In such a complicated fashion environment, the subject should remain rational, neither refuse nor blindly follow, and establish a reflective relationship with fashion.
【学位授予单位】：湘潭大学
【学位级别】：硕士
【学位授予年份】：2016
【分类号】：B565.59

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