从诓鬼的烧肉到宴客的烧烤——彝族饮食文化的同质化和异质化过程的人类学阐释

发布时间：2018-02-04 22:49

本文关键词： 凉山彝族消散的现代性文化变迁饮食人类学宗教人类学　出处：《西北民族研究》2017年01期 　论文类型：期刊论文

【摘要】：本文以凉山彝族宗教仪式中所使用的诓鬼的烧肉和新兴的用于宴客的烧烤为个案,探讨彝族饮食文化的变迁过程。彝族文化忌讳在户外烧肉散发出焦味,因为彝族人相信烧肉的焦味会引来鬼,轻者致人生病,重者会把人的灵魂摄去,使人死亡。彝族饮食文化的变迁过程包括同质化和异质化两种形式。由于彝汉族群互动和文化交流的加强,内地汉区的烧烤文化被引入凉山彝区,形成颇有特色的"彝族烧烤"。这个过程是彝汉文化的同质化过程。从彝族文化角度来看,本来仅在宗教仪式上用于诓鬼的烧肉,其形式通过文化再生产,被重新阐释为"彝族烧烤"用于宴客。这个过程是彝族文化异质化的过程。传统诓鬼的烧肉的象征性与宴客的烧烤的现代性之间发生了文化冲突。从诓鬼的烧肉到宴客的烧烤的变化过程所反映的是彝族饮食文化的变迁,体现了美国人类学家阿尔君·阿帕杜莱所说的"消散的现代性"。
[Abstract]:This paper discusses the changing process of Yi people's food culture, which is used in the ritual of Yi nationality in Liangshan as a case study, and the new barbecue used for diners. The culture of Yi nationality is forbidden to emit scorching flavor in outdoor meat burning. Because the Yi people believe that the burning of meat will lead to ghosts, light people make people sick, heavy people will take away the soul, The changing process of the Yi nationality diet culture includes two forms: homogenization and heterogeneity. As a result of the interaction and cultural exchange between the Yi and Han groups, the barbecue culture of the Han nationality in the interior was introduced into the Liangshan Yi region. The formation of a rather distinctive "Yi barbecue". This process is a process of homogenization of Yi and Han cultures. From the point of view of Yi culture, it was originally used only in religious ceremonies for the purpose of scamming ghosts' meat, the form of which was reproduced through culture. Reinterpreted as "Yi barbecue" for diners. This process is a process of Yi cultural heterogeneity. There is a cultural conflict between the symbolism of traditional scamming meat and the modernity of barbecue. The changing process of barbecue to diners reflects the changes in the food culture of the Yi people. It embodies what American anthropologist Arjun Apadulay calls "dissipated modernity".
【作者单位】：中央民族大学民族学与社会学学院;中央民族大学民族文化多样性研究中心;
【基金】：2016年度中央民族大学“建设世界一流大学(学科)和特色发展引导专项资金”之民族学学科经费资助
【分类号】：C912.4
【正文快照】： 一、引言宗教、信仰、饮食作为文化的重要组成部分,经历了实践、惯习而成为象征体系。在全球化的背景下,文化变迁成为常态。美国人类学家阿尔君·阿帕杜莱(Arjun Appadurai)指出:“当今全球互动的核心问题是文化同质化与异质化之间的张力。”(1)对于凉山彝族而言,文化的同质

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