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唐代女装款式演变研究与应用

发布时间:2018-08-07 12:25
【摘要】:服装作为避寒遮体的事物,在人类早期的蒙昧生活中就已经出现,它随着人类社会的进步而不断发展变化。中华民族的发展过程中,在各个民族相互影响渗透,同时吸收融合了外来文化的基础之上,经过长时间的生产活动和社会实践,产生了中国独具特色的服饰文化。几千年来,中国服饰在吸收新鲜元素的基础上不断地改革创新,它的发展和变化一刻也没有停止过。在这个漫长坎坷的过程中,作为中国服饰发展史上的高潮之一,唐代女装为我们遗留下了宝贵的文化财富。 陕西西安是中国汉唐时期政治、经济和文化的中心。时至今日,汉唐时期遗留下的丰富历史遗迹和文化资源仍然是陕西经济、文化发展的重要动力和灵感源泉。唐代女装作为中国汉族传统女装的代表,其风貌痕迹在日本和服中仍然可以感受到。经过日本民族的改革、创新和发展,和服至今仍保持着强有力的生命力。在世界服饰中占有重要地位,反观当代中国,民族传统服饰在西方思潮的冲击下几近没落。而西安地区作为唐代文化的中心,对唐代女装的继承和应用仅处于研究——复原——展示的阶段,应用范围和设计思路较为狭窄,服饰款式单一。 本课题以唐代女装为研究对象,以唐代各个时期的女装款式为研究主体,从设计和文化传播的角度,通过对众多博物馆、唐代墓葬、敦煌莫高窟、丝绸之路和法门寺等地的实地考察和对《唐史》、《地方志》等文献资料的研究,收集了类型各异、内容多样,年代分布均匀的研究资料。除此之外还采用了数理统计、问卷调查等研究方法增强课题理论依据。 研究通过将服装结构划分为领、袖等基本设计模块,分析不同时期唐代服饰的款式和表现手法。并通过实例的分析和比对,得出服装款式的演变趋势以及服饰配件的流行趋势。通过分析陈述和服、韩服等服装的发展历史,肯定唐代服饰在世界服装体系中的重要地位和发展价值。 本课题的重点和创新点在于从设计艺术学和美学角度分析并总结了唐代女装款式的演变过程和原因,丰富了唐代服饰的研究体系。另一方面,本课题通过对汉服运动中的唐代服饰,景区演出服、唐风工作服等具体服装使用项目进行的实际调查和分析,总结出当下西安地区唐代元素女装在实际使用项目中存在的不足。设计制作出服装实物并在相应项目中进行实践和使用,得出相应结论。引起现代人对它更多的关注,丰富现代中国服饰的设计语言。
[Abstract]:Clothing, as a thing to hide from the cold, has appeared in the early ignorance of human life, and it has been developing and changing with the progress of human society. In the course of the development of the Chinese nation, the different nationalities influence each other and absorb the foreign culture. After a long period of production activities and social practice, the unique clothing culture of China is produced. For thousands of years, Chinese clothing has been innovating and innovating on the basis of absorbing fresh elements, and its development and change have never stopped. In this long and bumpy process, as one of the climax in the history of Chinese dress development, women's clothing of Tang Dynasty left us precious cultural wealth. Xi'an, Shaanxi Province, was the center of politics, economy and culture in the Han and Tang dynasties of China. Today, the rich historical relics and cultural resources left over from the Han and Tang dynasties are still the important driving force and inspiration for Shaanxi's economic and cultural development. As the representative of traditional Chinese women's clothing, the style and features of Tang Dynasty women's clothing can still be felt in Japanese kimono. After the reform, innovation and development of the Japanese nation, kimono still maintains a strong vitality. It occupies an important position in the world dress. In contrast to contemporary China, the traditional national dress is almost decaying under the impact of the western trend of thought. As the center of Tang Dynasty culture, the inheritance and application of women's clothing in Xi'an is only in the stage of research, restoration and display, the application scope and design idea is narrow, and the style of dress is single. This topic takes the women's clothing of Tang Dynasty as the research object, takes the women's clothing style of the Tang Dynasty as the main body, from the design and the cultural dissemination angle, through the numerous museums, Tang Dynasty tombs, Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, The field investigation of the Silk Road and Famen Temple and the study of documents such as the History of the Tang Dynasty and the Local Chronicles collected the research materials of different types, various contents and even distribution of ages. In addition, mathematical statistics, questionnaire survey and other research methods are used to strengthen the theoretical basis of the subject. By dividing the clothing structure into collar, sleeve and other basic design modules, this paper analyzes the style and expression of Tang Dynasty clothing in different periods. Through the analysis and comparison of examples, the evolution trend of clothing style and fashion trend of clothing accessories are obtained. Through the analysis of the development history of clothing such as statement and clothing, the paper affirms the important position and development value of Tang Dynasty clothing in the world clothing system. The emphasis and innovation of this subject lies in the analysis and summary of the evolution process and reasons of women's style in Tang Dynasty from the point of view of design art and aesthetics, which enriches the research system of dress in Tang Dynasty. On the other hand, through the actual investigation and analysis of the specific items of clothing use in Han Dynasty, such as Tang Dynasty clothing, Scenic costumes, Tang style work clothes, etc. Summarized the present Xi'an area Tang Dynasty element women's clothing in the actual use item existence insufficiency. The clothing object is designed and used in the corresponding project, and the corresponding conclusion is drawn. The modern people pay more attention to it and enrich the design language of modern Chinese dress.
【学位授予单位】:陕西师范大学
【学位级别】:硕士
【学位授予年份】:2012
【分类号】:J523.5

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